is this blue one supposed to be the "nearly roadworthy" one ?
Yup
despite what's been said above that'll not be passing an MOT unless you spend a LOT of time on it - any chassis that shows that much external corrosion is going to have suffered a lot of thinning, just look at the state of the front damper mount, doesn't look to be much metal left going up towards the dumb iron
It's not that bad, there is another hole on top of the beam (terminology?) near the front shock mount, but I reckon removing the battery tray will give good access. The other side seems fine and passed the 'stab the crap out of it with a screwdriver test'.
fold the windscreen down, i'd bet the top of the BH comes away stuck to the seal
I haven't done that as I would obviously have to detach the front of the roof. I must say though that the area you mention does seem very solid.And as I have no intention of dropping the screen does it matter?
fair chance the BH feet both need replacing - peel the door pillar seal away, bet there's finger sized holes there as well
A picture paints a thousand words (assuming of course I have photographed the area you were asking about

)
Assuming this was the area you were talking about all that does look pretty solid to me.
rear tub brace missing, they'll be lots of corrosion to the tub base as well - poke a finger at the drivers floor where it meets the footwell, don't be surprised if it goes all the way through
Tried the finger poke test and screwdriver test, all OK there. You are quite right about the tub floor. It has rusted in two or three spots where the braces are (were). Is chequer plating an acceptable fix for an MOT inspector? Again the rest of the tub floor is perfectly solid.
judging from just these few out of focus pics i'd guess you're looking at a good few days work for a competent welder - plus a good few more getting access and for preparation works - by which time you'll have paid half the cost of a new galv'ed chassis just for labour
Fair point on the crappy pics. Again, unless I am missing something all the areas that obviously need welding seem to have good access.
sorry to be the voice of doom here but anyone who says that "isnt too bad" is giving a false impression of what it takes to get a landy in that state legally and safely back on the road - but, it's a fine project so get on with it
No, I appreciate your honesty, and Grippa's
I guess what I am thinking is if getting it through an MOT won't break the bank I'll take a punt and run it for 12 months then weigh it in.
But before I can do anything to it I need to get it on the bloody drive
It is in 4WD at present. Am I correct in assuming that this Landy should be in 2WD with the red knob slammed forward ? (I did drag it back and forth into that position) Nothing I do will get it out of 4WD. Winding the front wheel around with a bar spins the back wheel.
And should the yellow knob depress without the engine running and no clutch ?

Coz it doesn't (EDIT: it does depress it just immediately springs back up)