ChuggyFreelander
New Member
Hi all
I've spent a few weeks trawling these forums and firstly thank you, they've been very illuminating and have definitely helped me in pinpointing issues and possible solutions.
I've bought a (2wd, 135k) FL1 to tide me over for a few months while my other car is 'sick', but I'd consider keeping it longer term as it's useful for the country lanes and farm tracks I navigate daily. My mum had a FL1 (sadly written off - she's very excited about my new one) and before that a Disco 2 so there's affection for older LRs in the family. It was an auction buy and I decided that for £650 and the fact it's had the same owner since 2009, who had traded it in for a Volvo, and being in decent rust-free condition, that it was worth a punt. Clearly I don't know the specific reason(s) why it was traded in and have a service book (last service in 2023...) but no invoices. 2 keys and all the other books though.
I would consider myself able to do minor works on it that don't involve taking out too many things, as I have zero training but am quite practical and able to follow instructions and have done some bits to my other car (e.g. heater fan resistor, fit Carplay head unit, few minor engine bay bits).
I've already noticed that it doesn't get up to temp even on a long run and thanks to these forums have bought the Rover 75 / MG ZT CDT/CDTi Inline (Top Hose) Thermostat Kit from Discount MG Spares which I intend to fit in the next week or so.
The main thing which slightly concerns me about its (July) MOT is the white smoke (20-30 secs) on startup accompanied by diesel fumes and rough idle. It doesn't seem to smoke otherwise. It also randomly cut out while I was out of it opening a gate, after a decent run, but started up with no issue. I've read lots about this on the forums and seems ultimately it could be an injector, but could be a number of other things. It runs fine once the smoke has cleared (although I would say vibrates more on idle than I would expect) and doesn't seem down on power especially, although I have nothing to compare it to really. Just seems slow to me compared to a Volvo T5 engine
but not dangerous. And no engine lights or any other unwanted dash lights at any point, so far. I have been putting Redex in it on fill-up (though have only done about a tank so far) and plan to put in some more expensive stuff closer to MOT...
I now have contact cleaner in my possession so am planning to clean the fuel rail pressure sensor contacts. I've also just read something about an air intake temperature sensor.
I will report back once I've done both these things but if there are any other little hacks/contact cleaning type jobs I should be doing, I would really appreciate a nudge in that direction.
I do plan to get it serviced as I don't know when filters etc were changed and the oil definitely needs changing, but wanted to run it for a few weeks to make sure it actually functioned before spending the money.
Thanks
I've spent a few weeks trawling these forums and firstly thank you, they've been very illuminating and have definitely helped me in pinpointing issues and possible solutions.
I've bought a (2wd, 135k) FL1 to tide me over for a few months while my other car is 'sick', but I'd consider keeping it longer term as it's useful for the country lanes and farm tracks I navigate daily. My mum had a FL1 (sadly written off - she's very excited about my new one) and before that a Disco 2 so there's affection for older LRs in the family. It was an auction buy and I decided that for £650 and the fact it's had the same owner since 2009, who had traded it in for a Volvo, and being in decent rust-free condition, that it was worth a punt. Clearly I don't know the specific reason(s) why it was traded in and have a service book (last service in 2023...) but no invoices. 2 keys and all the other books though.
I would consider myself able to do minor works on it that don't involve taking out too many things, as I have zero training but am quite practical and able to follow instructions and have done some bits to my other car (e.g. heater fan resistor, fit Carplay head unit, few minor engine bay bits).
I've already noticed that it doesn't get up to temp even on a long run and thanks to these forums have bought the Rover 75 / MG ZT CDT/CDTi Inline (Top Hose) Thermostat Kit from Discount MG Spares which I intend to fit in the next week or so.
The main thing which slightly concerns me about its (July) MOT is the white smoke (20-30 secs) on startup accompanied by diesel fumes and rough idle. It doesn't seem to smoke otherwise. It also randomly cut out while I was out of it opening a gate, after a decent run, but started up with no issue. I've read lots about this on the forums and seems ultimately it could be an injector, but could be a number of other things. It runs fine once the smoke has cleared (although I would say vibrates more on idle than I would expect) and doesn't seem down on power especially, although I have nothing to compare it to really. Just seems slow to me compared to a Volvo T5 engine
but not dangerous. And no engine lights or any other unwanted dash lights at any point, so far. I have been putting Redex in it on fill-up (though have only done about a tank so far) and plan to put in some more expensive stuff closer to MOT...I now have contact cleaner in my possession so am planning to clean the fuel rail pressure sensor contacts. I've also just read something about an air intake temperature sensor.
I will report back once I've done both these things but if there are any other little hacks/contact cleaning type jobs I should be doing, I would really appreciate a nudge in that direction.
I do plan to get it serviced as I don't know when filters etc were changed and the oil definitely needs changing, but wanted to run it for a few weeks to make sure it actually functioned before spending the money.
Thanks
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