ChuggyFreelander

New Member
Hi all
I've spent a few weeks trawling these forums and firstly thank you, they've been very illuminating and have definitely helped me in pinpointing issues and possible solutions.

I've bought a (2wd, 135k) FL1 to tide me over for a few months while my other car is 'sick', but I'd consider keeping it longer term as it's useful for the country lanes and farm tracks I navigate daily. My mum had a FL1 (sadly written off - she's very excited about my new one) and before that a Disco 2 so there's affection for older LRs in the family. It was an auction buy and I decided that for £650 and the fact it's had the same owner since 2009, who had traded it in for a Volvo, and being in decent rust-free condition, that it was worth a punt. Clearly I don't know the specific reason(s) why it was traded in and have a service book (last service in 2023...) but no invoices. 2 keys and all the other books though.

I would consider myself able to do minor works on it that don't involve taking out too many things, as I have zero training but am quite practical and able to follow instructions and have done some bits to my other car (e.g. heater fan resistor, fit Carplay head unit, few minor engine bay bits).

I've already noticed that it doesn't get up to temp even on a long run and thanks to these forums have bought the Rover 75 / MG ZT CDT/CDTi Inline (Top Hose) Thermostat Kit from Discount MG Spares which I intend to fit in the next week or so.

The main thing which slightly concerns me about its (July) MOT is the white smoke (20-30 secs) on startup accompanied by diesel fumes and rough idle. It doesn't seem to smoke otherwise. It also randomly cut out while I was out of it opening a gate, after a decent run, but started up with no issue. I've read lots about this on the forums and seems ultimately it could be an injector, but could be a number of other things. It runs fine once the smoke has cleared (although I would say vibrates more on idle than I would expect) and doesn't seem down on power especially, although I have nothing to compare it to really. Just seems slow to me compared to a Volvo T5 engine :D but not dangerous. And no engine lights or any other unwanted dash lights at any point, so far. I have been putting Redex in it on fill-up (though have only done about a tank so far) and plan to put in some more expensive stuff closer to MOT...

I now have contact cleaner in my possession so am planning to clean the fuel rail pressure sensor contacts. I've also just read something about an air intake temperature sensor.

I will report back once I've done both these things but if there are any other little hacks/contact cleaning type jobs I should be doing, I would really appreciate a nudge in that direction.

I do plan to get it serviced as I don't know when filters etc were changed and the oil definitely needs changing, but wanted to run it for a few weeks to make sure it actually functioned before spending the money.

Thanks :)
 
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Fairly common issues;

Leaks / splits around boost hoses - check them all carefully for wear / rubbing.
Manifold and egr get caked in carbon deposits. Worth spending the time cleaning them out at least (no cost!) @Arctic2 has some good pictures for this.

The thermostat mod will fix the running temp issue.


Have fun!
 
Fairly common issues;

Leaks / splits around boost hoses - check them all carefully for wear / rubbing.
Manifold and egr get caked in carbon deposits. Worth spending the time cleaning them out at least (no cost!) @Arctic2 has some good pictures for this.

The thermostat mod will fix the running temp issue.


Have fun!
Great - will do that, many thanks 👌

I will have a look for a thread with those pics in. I expect while it’s had routine maintenance, I expect it’s clogged up…
 
I've just dealt with that same issue. what finally got rid of the smoke and rough idle was swapping injector number 1.

I would do a leak back test - look it up - to identify which injector if any is at fault.

There's a thread titled 'air intake temperature sensor - solved' recently. There are some details on there.
 
I've just dealt with that same issue. what finally got rid of the smoke and rough idle was swapping injector number 1.

I would do a leak back test - look it up - to identify which injector if any is at fault.

There's a thread titled 'air intake temperature sensor - solved' recently. There are some details on there.
Thank you @MGT. did you swap the injector yourself? Tbh I would probably want to get a garage to do that, feel it’s rather over and above my mechanical abilities. My brother has a sort of tame mechanic who works on his old BMWs - hates Land Rovers but it’s a BMW engine right 😅

Out of interest does anyone know the rough cost of injector replacement on one of these? Thank you 🙏
 
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That is this thread then

 
Hi all- went to fit the new air intake temperature sensor (the one at the front of the engine next to the intake) and discovered that one of the wires to it is broken (see pic). I’m positive I didn’t do this as I was very careful getting the plug off - noticed as I was plugging it back in. Checked by starting the car with it unplugged - idles “chuggily” exactly as before, puff of white smoke on start up etc.
Presumably this could be the cause - or one of, anyway- the rough idling?

I’d planned to do the other jobs - clean intake, manifold, EGR, MAP, inline thermostat this weekend. It’s annoying as I probably won’t get this fixed in time to do the other things but will do them anyway.

Does this look like a big job to fix this wire? This is where my mechanical ignorance kicks in. I will probably get a professional to do this.
 

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You could de-pin the connector & solder a new wire between the contact & loom wire. Otherwise just replace the connector. That part of the loom usually has enough slack to reach.
 
You could de-pin the connector & solder a new wire between the contact & loom wire. Otherwise just replace the connector. That part of the loom usually has enough slack to reach.
Ok thank you 👍 forgive my ignorance but can anyone help me with a link to a new connector? Done some googling and am none the wiser 😅
 
Thank you @MGT. did you swap the injector yourself? Tbh I would probably want to get a garage to do that, feel it’s rather over and above my mechanical abilities. My brother has a sort of tame mechanic who works on his old BMWs - hates Land Rovers but it’s a BMW engine right 😅

Out of interest does anyone know the rough cost of injector replacement on one of these? Thank you 🙏
Sorry for the late reply. For some reason i missed your post. Yes, I replaced the injector. It seems difficult until you do one, and you read a lot of stories about them refusing to come out. So far I've been lucky, and I've done a few now. The key with these i found is to find the right point of leverage so you extract them 'true' - ie, you aren't applying force against the side walls of the injector chamber. I found the ideal tool for this by accident = a stone carving chisel that has a curved edge that you can sit right up under the part of the injector where the loom plugs in. Helps if engine warm too. As for cost, I always used a donor vehicle or found someone breaking one for injectors.
 
Out of interest does anyone know the rough cost of injector replacement on one of these? Thank you 🙏
I have spare injectors for the TD4 where are you based in the UK i think i may have the connection plug also with some wire connected to it, which i will double check tomorrow if you still need, drop me a message if you do.

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No worries @MGT - was just interested. Thank you @Arctic2 - that’s really kind - I’m in Kent. I’ve got it booked in (time constraints) to get the air intake temp sensor plug rewired, handbrake tightened and an injector leak-back test, so we’ll see. To be honest, I may have to change cars to something ULEZ-compliant for work before too long so I’m reluctant to spend money on injectors all the while it’s running “ok”. Particularly as (update) it’s now running better…

This weekend I tackled the following — few things so I don’t know exactly what has made the improvement but possibly a combination:
- fitted inline thermostat - now gets up to temp👌
- removed and cleaned out intake, intake manifold, EGR valve, MAP sensor- all pretty gunked up. Didn’t get the manifold perfect but definitely an improvement, EGR and MAP a lot better
- new crankcase breather filter kit
- new turbo vent filter
- cleaned fuel rail pressure sensor contacts.

Bled the cooling system. Noticed that it’s definitely idling more smoothly once warmed up - still a little rough when cold but the steering wheel no longer shakes on idle and noticeably smoother while driving 😃

Took it for an Italian tune, blew some crud out (grey smoke initially), but stopped smoking after a few mins. Tomorrow morning will be the first cold start post clean out and Italian tune - I will probably bleed the coolant again just to be safe. Expect it'll run even better once the air intake temp sensor is actually working. I’d put some Cataclean in it too about 10 miles ago so I expect that’s helping too.

Very pleased - hoping now it’ll fare ok for MOT emissions/smoke-wise - assuming nothing else goes awry in the meantime. This is all thanks to this forum btw- really appreciate you all ☺️. I worked out that I’ve spent £60 on the engine bay parts, plus my time - not to be sniffed at.
 
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No worries @MGT - was just interested. Thank you @Arctic2 - that’s really kind - I’m in Kent. I’ve got it booked in (time constraints) to get the air intake temp sensor plug rewired, handbrake tightened and an injector leak-back test, so we’ll see. To be honest, I may have to change cars to something ULEZ-compliant for work before too long so I’m reluctant to spend money on injectors all the while it’s running “ok”. Particularly as (update) it’s now running better…

This weekend I tackled the following — few things so I don’t know exactly what has made the improvement but possibly a combination:
- fitted inline thermostat - now gets up to temp👌
- removed and cleaned out intake, intake manifold, EGR valve, MAP sensor- all pretty gunked up. Didn’t get the manifold perfect but definitely an improvement, EGR and MAP a lot better
- new crankcase breather filter kit
- new turbo vent filter
- cleaned fuel rail pressure sensor contacts.

Bled the cooling system. Noticed that it’s definitely idling more smoothly once warmed up - still a little rough when cold but the steering wheel no longer shakes on idle and noticeably smoother while driving 😃

Took it for an Italian tune, blew some crud out (grey smoke initially), but stopped smoking after a few mins. Tomorrow morning will be the first cold start post clean out and Italian tune - I will probably bleed the coolant again just to be safe. Expect it'll run even better once the air intake temp sensor is actually working. I’d put some Cataclean in it too about 10 miles ago so I expect that’s helping too.

Very pleased - hoping now it’ll fare ok for MOT emissions/smoke-wise - assuming nothing else goes awry in the meantime. This is all thanks to this forum btw- really appreciate you all ☺️. I worked out that I’ve spent £60 on the engine bay parts, plus my time - not to be sniffed at.
I’m in Kent, just outside of Ashford.
I have full diag kit for F1, if ever you need some help.
 

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