discodreama

New Member

• Oct 3, 2009

• #1

Hello, I have just bought a 2.5dt for cheap as the clutch slave cylinder has gone, I have ordered a new part but i have also noticed the shaft that runs out from the slave cylinder is almost completely out before it even touches the clutch arm, Now in the p38 pdf book it shows a washer type thing on the clutch arm, I dont have this, Just the hole where the shaft can sit, I have searched threads and found similair problems but no definite answer, Do i need to seperate the box from the engine and if so, What is the likely cause of the clutch arm being too far away from the slave arm. Thanks in advance. Nick.

 

zzr1200

Well-Known Member

• Oct 3, 2009

• #2

The P38 Diesel has a pull clutch as apposed to the usual push clutch fitted to most vehicles.

If the slave cylinder is almost fully out before any pressure is applied there is a possibility that the clutch is shot or most likely the 2 roll pins that attach the clutch fork to the cross shaft have sheared, which will give the symptoms you are describing.

Unfortunately it sounds like you are looking at a gearbox out job for the repair.


zzr

PS. If you put you location in your details someone maybe able to help...

 

discodreama

New Member

• Oct 3, 2009

• #3

Hi, I think it is the clutch fork to cross shaft linkage at fault as the car can still be driven in a single gear so clutch seems pretty good. I just needed to know the names of the parts at fault instead of "this is wrong with it!" Thanks alot.

 

zzr1200

Well-Known Member

• Oct 3, 2009

• #4

discodreama said:

Hi, I think it is the clutch fork to cross shaft linkage at fault as the car can still be driven in a single gear so clutch seems pretty good. I just needed to know the names of the parts at fault instead of "this is wrong with it!" Thanks alot.

Click to expand...

If the clutch will not disengage the engine from the gearbox to allow gear selection, but still drives if the engine is started in with the gearbox in gear without clutch slip.

Then I'd put money on the "Roll Pins have Sheared" mine sheared last year drove perfectly apart from having to start in gear and unable to disengage the clutch.

The roll pins cost about 2 quid from Land Rover Stealer's but the cost of a gearbox out job is expensive....time to get the overalls and tools out of mothballs.


PS; You might find downloading the Workshop Manual and MicroCat Parts listing program from here useful:

http://green-oval.com/joomla/index.php?option=com_docman&task=cat_view&gid=13&Itemid=29

 

Last edited: Oct 3, 2009

discodreama

New Member

• Oct 3, 2009

• #5

Hey, Thanks for the info, I think i can tackle the box myself, Do you think if i can suspend the box with a hoist and jack i can slide it back and get at the pins or will the whole box/transfer box have to be "dropped" Thanks alot. Nick.

 

B

byway-basher

New Member

• Oct 3, 2009

• #6

If going so far as to split the tranny from the engine, Id drop the box right out and slap a new clutch kit in anyway.

 

zzr1200

Well-Known Member

• Oct 3, 2009

• #7

discodreama said:

Hey, Thanks for the info, I think i can tackle the box myself, Do you think if i can suspend the box with a hoist and jack i can slide it back and get at the pins or will the whole box/transfer box have to be "dropped" Thanks alot. Nick.

Click to expand...

I put my Range Rover up on four car ramps blocked/chocked the wheels, I also used 2 in thick wooden blocks between the axles and bump stops to stop the suspension totally lowering its self.

I then made a bracket that bolted to the gearbox/transfer box and used a trolley jack to remove the transmission unit.

PS: Nick where abouts do you live, a rough location will do???

 

discodreama

New Member

• Oct 3, 2009

• #8

Hi, Im in Merseyside, I have removed the interior and plan to secure the front of the box in the cab with a chain around the box and piece of wood braced across the transmission tunnel then support the rear with the big trolley jack, remove the propshafts and crossmember and try to manouver the box backwards to get enough room to replace the thrust bearing, & linkage etc.. I dont fancy having to remove the box completely just suspend it, I want to leave the bell housing and clutch intact and just get at the fork. Any ideas/suggestions? Thanks alot.

 

discodreama

New Member

• Oct 6, 2009

• #9

Well, Took the props off, interior out, handbrake plate off, crossmember off, have the box/transfer box secured over the transmission tunnel with a huge chain and pole, and front of box jacked up, Managed to slide box back 4-5 inches ao i can see in side the bell housing, Problem is in fact the cross shaft pins, They have sheared, i found bits of them in bellhousing, Now heres my problem, The pins are arriving tomorrow, Do you think i can knock them in, in the 5 odd inches space i have between the box and bell housing, Also how much more travel is there before the shaft dissengages and the box falls on me? I am working alone and its my first go at a rr box but im in there and have just enough space to do it i think but need to know how much more space i can get if any. Cheers. Nick.

 

G

gavbriggs

Well-Known Member

• Oct 6, 2009

• #10

ffs sake mate if yer woking alone make sure someone checks on you from time to time and keep a phone nearby just incase!! also try and get soomething that can stop the box crushing you, i.e a toolbox near you so it has a chance of knocking you out the way and falling on the object. be very careful cos i dont think you have much more room on that shaft

 

discodreama

New Member

• Oct 6, 2009

• #11

I was joking about the box falling on me, Its chained up tight to the floor, I'll be getting some help tomorrow so might just drop the front of the box onto a couple of wheels and fit the cross shaft pins but then have the task of getting the box back up into position. Cheers.