Did you not say you used .90 as the preload on the DTI. Depending where rollers were on cams that may not be enough. When the DTI stopped dropping and you zeroed it, the DTI probe may not have been in contact with the piston as you continued to turn the engine to set the timing pin. That is why you must preload the DTI at least 2 mm at 90 degrees BTDC. With number one cam vertical. Then when it stops dropping you know the rollers are in valleys of cams with the probe in contact with the piston. Then any further movement will lift the DTI giving you an accurate reading. If the DTI lost contact with the piston the timing will be considerably out.
Last edited:
Evenjng fellas I always preloaded it by 5mm as the guage I use is a 10mm travel.
On a postive note I retimed it today and fitted the new battery and away she went and she also start from hot mine it takes approx 2-3second to start but it is alot better will put it on t4 tomorrow to check all parameters.
On a postive note I retimed it today and fitted the new battery and away she went and she also start from hot mine it takes approx 2-3second to start but it is alot better will put it on t4 tomorrow to check all parameters.
Ok some news the set point and actual point values are within .5 of each other but the timing modulation is between 88% and 92% and t4 states 45% to 55% so what does this mean the static timing is correct it is set at .90mm and im 100% that the timing pin wad in the correct hole as I removed the starter.
Temp of engine was at 85 degrees c and in it normal operating range.
Temp of engine was at 85 degrees c and in it normal operating range.
88% to 92% modulation means the static timing is not quite correct. It is a little retarded.
You can do that undo nuts a minimal amount tap pump round using a block of wood and hammer. Tighten and check. Think i have explained this before.
