This has happend in the past according to some. I would suggest IF your oil is very dirty, to change filter and oil then run vehicle for a few days then change oil again. Then again a week or so later. As you can never drain all the oil out, this will have the effect of purging the system. A few gallons of ATF at £10.00 to £12.00 a gallon is prefereble to a new box or an overhaul.
tommo138
New Member
manual says to have engine running when checking aft levels, but not a hot engine after use, i.e first time starting it in the morning.
jwaldron
New Member
The oil level is still over the max mark. Oil looks new (red) and smells like the stuff in the bottle I have. I can only assume some one (previous owner) has overfileld it or changed filter and attempted to put the full 9.7lit in???
Only had the vehicle 3 weeks so don't know the history... The guy did mutter somthing about oil and filter changes 6 months ago.
Q) Should I drain or use one of these oil pumps to extract some via the dip stick spout?
Q) What effects will an overfill have anyway?
Only had the vehicle 3 weeks so don't know the history... The guy did mutter somthing about oil and filter changes 6 months ago.
Q) Should I drain or use one of these oil pumps to extract some via the dip stick spout?
Q) What effects will an overfill have anyway?
When oil gets hot it expands, there has to be room in the box for this expansion, that is why it should not be overfilled. Overfilling may cause pressure build up and blow the seals. Or at least produce a fountain of ATF out of the dip stick tube. All oil levels should be checked with oil cold.
Last edited:
the hooded claw
Well-Known Member
I remember Tony (wammers) postin this before & I use this method as well ......
piece of tubing down Dip Stick hole ..t'other end into a jar with 2 holes drilled in the lid (Lid MUST BE airtight) Silicone long tube to one hole & fix a short piece to the other (again with Silicone)
Suck on the small tube until ATF starts to flow into the jar (THIS method saves yer gettin a mouth full AFT when sucking to start the flow)
Then with the AFT in the jar you can store it & use it to top up later as necessary...........
mikeateves
New Member
I seem to recall reading a recommendation not to use the connectors supplied with the hotfix kit but to solder the wires. This is because the connectors oxidise over time resulting in increased resistance in the circuit which can adversely affect the engine management.
I'm interested to know how you get on with the fix as I'm thinking of fitting it to my P38.
mikeateves
twinspoots
Member
thanks for the tips will look into getting that changes av got 166000 on the clock and there no paper work in my histors to say its ever been changed
SpudH
Well-Known Member
My hot start fix is sitting in the packet i bought it 8 months ago as I just wasn't sure enough to fit it.
I'd like to know what the residual resistance of the setup is when switched out as this has got to have an effect.
An alternate, (safer IMHO) is a manual switch onto the glowplug relay. I've got the switch, just need to find some time to fit that 'fix'
I'd like to know what the residual resistance of the setup is when switched out as this has got to have an effect.
An alternate, (safer IMHO) is a manual switch onto the glowplug relay. I've got the switch, just need to find some time to fit that 'fix'
My hot start fix is sitting in the packet i bought it 8 months ago as I just wasn't sure enough to fit it.
I'd like to know what the residual resistance of the setup is when switched out as this has got to have an effect.
An alternate, (safer IMHO) is a manual switch onto the glowplug relay. I've got the switch, just need to find some time to fit that 'fix'
As i understand it the hot fix blocks or substitutes a signal of lower value from the ECU temperature sender for 30sec so the ECU thinks the engine is cold and activates glow and cold start settings. When the timed relay drops out the signal from the temp sensors resumes. All should then be normal. I have fitted one to my DSE and have no problems at all with it.
SpudH
Well-Known Member
Yeah, but you are still throwing the added resistance of a pair of connectors and a pair of contacts into the 'normal' circuit when the 'cold' ciruit is switched out. I'm fairly limited in my electronics but I do know that the resistance of the new 'normal' circuit has to be different to that of a simple wire.
You've got a faultmate have you not? What temp are you getting for the car when warmed up?, that will quickly resolve the issue for once and for all.
Don't know what the resistance values are or what they go between from cold to hot. But if cold is zero and hot is 50ohms, more resistance from connectors and wire can only increase the value not decrease it. That being the case extra resistance can only make the ECU think hot quicker. That would case under fueling until the full hot value was reached. Not over fueling.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
SpudH
Well-Known Member
So do negative coefficient thermistors
F**ked if I know
I'm just using prudent laziness as an excuse for it still sitting in its packet
Wammers, or anyone else who has faultmate and a hot start fix fitted, if you think of it next time you're hooked up check what your normal running temp is for us.
Although now that i think about that, sure is the faultmate going to return the altered or true value? I can't remember if the DSE has one or more temp sensors:doh:
This is getting complexed now and to be honest slightly out of my range of knowledge. But i think the OP has said he made, or found badly connected couplings with little or no continuity. I think that was the cause of his fueling problems. Although quite how that would affect gear changing i do not know.
woogoo
New Member
Guys... I Seam to be a serial poster now I have a P38..
I've recently fitted a Hot fix (off ebay). Connected it to a blue/grey trace to ECU (I did find three blue traces. One with Brown, one with Grey and one with white)... does that make sence? I used the Blue/grey as per instuctions.
I then connected the power up to the red/white trace and the black earth as per instructions using the supplied connectors. I think the connectors made contact.
Imeadiatly after fitting; the car now starts well when warm. Not like she did before i fitted it (took a good 9 to 10 sec before).
Now however - she seams to stick in gears no wanting to change and holding the revs all the way up. This is perticulary noticable from 2nd to third!!!
I stoped out of frustration and moved the gear selector from Drive to Park and all the way through to 1st and back again a few times.... then she seamed to be fine... it could have been this or just a time issue - I don't know.
Is this somthing to do with the hotfix possably or the gearbox? If either - how the hell do I fix it? Could it be the timed relay not switching off and the car somehow thinking she's cold?
I've also noticed the MPG on the computer is about 4mpg less than I was getting before I fitetd it. Anyone else with any side effects other than a good warm start????
My 10p worth. What about a 'sticky' Sport's Mode or Switch?
Good shout, and makes more sense than the hot fix causing it.
jwaldron
New Member
Guys... all I can now say for certain is that since I removed the hot fix I have NOT had a repeat performance of 5k revs in every gear..... She has managed to go nearly a week now without issue (now I've said that - watch out for a post tomorrow..lol)
I can therefore only assume based on my finding in relation to the bad connections that this was the cause.
If she behaves ok for another week and I'm feeling lucky - I may have another go at fitting the kit but this time ensuring that the connections make proper contact.
I can therefore only assume based on my finding in relation to the bad connections that this was the cause.
If she behaves ok for another week and I'm feeling lucky - I may have another go at fitting the kit but this time ensuring that the connections make proper contact.
jwaldron
New Member
Update: Since removing the box - car drove without fault for 3 weeks....
I've refitted the box now (removed the plastic around the wires) to ensure connection. Time will tell if things start to get wired again or not.
I opted not to solder them in as I wanted the option to remove.
Is there another way to fix this? what's the real cause of the hot start issue? and how do you fix it?
I've refitted the box now (removed the plastic around the wires) to ensure connection. Time will tell if things start to get wired again or not.
I opted not to solder them in as I wanted the option to remove.
Is there another way to fix this? what's the real cause of the hot start issue? and how do you fix it?
