blue_cheese said:
Update:

They pushed the car out of the garage and it started to behave normally again. Keyfob works and engine starts. Perhaps an issue with RF interference.
It's now sitting pretty on my drive 😊

I'll have to check if I have the updated RF receiver fitted, and buy one if not.
Click to expand...

Well thats a relief :).
Now you have a few issue that you know now need sorting otherwise it will do it again.
Leave the RF areial unplugged and get working on that door latch, i guess would be first.

But happy for you to beable to enjoy it now.

J
 
blue_cheese said:
Update:

They pushed the car out of the garage and it started to behave normally again. Keyfob works and engine starts. Perhaps an issue with RF interference.
It's now sitting pretty on my drive 😊

I'll have to check if I have the updated RF receiver fitted, and buy one if not.
Click to expand...
RF interference is a common problem and not just on the P38, had it on a mates Honda Blackbird when we stopped outside a taxi office in Spain. Rolled it down the road a way and it started normally. Even the MK3 receiver will not always stop the FOB signal being blocked. That is why the key access is so important. Shopping to day and had the same problem, no response locking the car from the FOB so used the key. With EKA and immobiliser off, unlocking with the key was straightforward. Away from the parking the FOB worked normally.
 
@marjon So, the way it works. Starting with the car locked, EKA and immobiliser turned on. Unlocking with the FOB, a code is sent to the BECM, if the code is valid, the BECM unlocks the car and prepares to send the remobilisation code which happens when the key is in the ignition. If the car is left unlocked, the remobilisation code will still be sent when the key is placed in the ignition.
Now if the car was locked with the FOB but will not unlock with the FOB, the EKA code is substituted for the FOB code to prompt the BECM to send the remobilisation code,unless EKA is turned off, in which case unlocking with the key will give the "Engine Disabled" message. This is cleared by a lock/unlock cycle with the key. With EKA and Immobiliser turned off, the remobilisation code will be sent automatically when the key is placed in the ignition with neither the FOB code or the EKA code required.
Equally if the car was locked with the key and unlocked with the FOB, the engine disabled message will come up.
If you sit in the car and lock with the FOB then put the key in the ignition you get the "Ignition Tamper" message and "Alarm activated".
That's about as simply as I can put it.
 
I've just seen the price of the Mk3/Green receivers, so much for such a small device!

So I've got a key which only fits the ignition barrel, and a door lock with no key. What's the sensible way forward? Replace the door lock cylinder with a simple one for emergency use?
 
Need to digest that but thanks @Datatek .
But still in my head turning off the get out of jail card (EKA) seems silly. At the moment.

J
 
blue_cheese said:
I've just seen the price of the Mk3/Green receivers, so much for such a small device!

So I've got a key which only fits the ignition barrel, and a door lock with no key. What's the sensible way forward? Replace the door lock cylinder with a simple one for emergency use?
Click to expand...
Get ignition and door barrels from a breaker along with a key blade and swap them over, not difficult, I've done just that on my project car. Make a note in the service book that they do not correspond to the VIN.
 
marjon said:
Need to digest that but thanks @Datatek .
But still in my head turning off the get out of jail card (EKA) seems silly. At the moment.

J
Click to expand...
EKA is just a substitute for the FOB code and becomes an automatic function when it is turned off.
Edit: and the immobiliser is turned off. Turn off EKA and not the immobiliser and if the FOB does not work you are in deep do do.
 
Last edited:
blue_cheese said:
I've just seen the price of the Mk3/Green receivers, so much for such a small device!

So I've got a key which only fits the ignition barrel, and a door lock with no key. What's the sensible way forward? Replace the door lock cylinder with a simple one for emergency use?
Click to expand...
This is my thoughts.
Have you ever tried the ignition key in the glove box? (Probably not, we all don’t ;))
You have never tried the EKA so you don’t know if it’s correct or not?
The fob works so is correct for the BECM to know it. Doesn’t mean EKA is correct though.

There are many combinations to work with now.

So we don’t know what’s original.

I would say, sure others will correct if I am totally wrong.

Go to you local LR dealer with the V5 and ID they should be able to give you the EKA (for its original build state).
If it matches that’s good, init 🤔.
If your key fits the glove box then it’s probably the correct key (as built), if it is then somebody has tried to fix the door lock and replaced everything but forgot the barrel is different (they probably were so happy it worked they forgot;))

Remember the fob matches the BECM signals required the key blade matches the lock barrels:vb-weyes:.

Now let’s see what you find with the keys cos my head is fried trying to explain it.

Now I have heard of (never seen) a so called emergency/valet key that came with new cars which is just a metal key.

The simplest way would be a lock set from a breaker and a key blade. But it would be nice to know what has gone on first.

J
 
Ignition key doesn't fit the glove box either, so hoping the door and glove box are for the same original key.
Changed the oil today, was blacker than the night. 5L of fresh 20w-50 gone in. The old filter put up quite a fight.

The garage mentioned some of my relays were looking a bit burnt out, is there supposed to be a relay in RL10 for all variants of the P38? Picture:

20250531_182618.jpg
 
blue_cheese said:
Ignition key doesn't fit the glove box either, so hoping the door and glove box are for the same original key.
Changed the oil today, was blacker than the night. 5L of fresh 20w-50 gone in. The old filter put up quite a fight.

The garage mentioned some of my relays were looking a bit burnt out, is there supposed to be a relay in RL10 for all variants of the P38? Picture:

View attachment 342215
Click to expand...
It should take more than 5 litres of oil! Around 6.5L for the petrol and a bit more for the diesel i think
 
blue_cheese said:
Ignition key doesn't fit the glove box either, so hoping the door and glove box are for the same original key.
Changed the oil today, was blacker than the night. 5L of fresh 20w-50 gone in. The old filter put up quite a fight.

The garage mentioned some of my relays were looking a bit burnt out, is there supposed to be a relay in RL10 for all variants of the P38? Picture:
Click to expand...
Fusebox lid doesn't show anything, but there are contacts on the PCB ?

RAVE shows it as a "Spare Relay" with "not used" connections. They must go somewhere, maybe for a special option, or police models ?

1748719328436.png
 

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kermit_rr said:
It should take more than 5 litres of oil! Around 6.5L for the petrol and a bit more for the diesel i think
Click to expand...
I probably didn't get all the old oil out, I'll give it a run and check the levels again

pwood999 said:
Fusebox lid doesn't show anything, but there are contacts on the PCB ?

RAVE shows it as a "Spare Relay" with "not used" connections. They must go somewhere, maybe for a special option, or police models ?

View attachment 342218
Click to expand...
Fusebox lid shows a picture of an engine with an electrical bolt through it. Don't have a picture unfortunately!
Imagine an EML with a lightning bolt.

marjon said:
It’s possible.
So EKA next to see if it matches original.

J
Click to expand...
Next up.
 
blue_cheese said:
I probably didn't get all the old oil out, I'll give it a run and check the levels again


Fusebox lid shows a picture of an engine with an electrical bolt through it. Don't have a picture unfortunately!
Imagine an EML with a lightning bolt.


Next up.
Click to expand...
For a stress free life, forget the EKA, turn it and the immobiliser off then you will never need iEKA and can use the key blade if the FOB doesn't work.
 
I've just been out to take a picture of the fuse box diagram:

20250601_214846.jpg

RL10, bottom centre, is the one I'm missing. Anyone got a Thor they can double check?
 
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