canny

New Member
the pads on the nearside are wearing quicker thaan the offside and think I can sometimes hear them rubbing especially when going slow. Any thoughts?
 
Sticking caliper or other caliper related parts. Caliper piston and seals or pad pins etc.

Strip them down rebuild and clean
 
Pads are always in contact with the discs so you will get a slight rubbing noise, good chance that the O/S caliper has seized. If the N/S caliper had seized the pads would not wear down and you also wouldn't get the rubbing sound as they wouldn't be making contact with the disc.
 
Pads are always in contact with the discs so you will get a slight rubbing noise, good chance that the O/S caliper has seized. If the N/S caliper had seized the pads would not wear down and you also wouldn't get the rubbing sound as they wouldn't be making contact with the disc.

I don't quite understand the logic here. Calipers can become resistant to returning through a build up of rust or crud under the seal thereby causing the piston to be held too tightly - braking pressure forces the piston out and as the seal is in effect distorted by the stuff under it the the natural release does not happen thereby holding the brake pad against the disc - this gets hot and expands - sometimes causing it to release sometimes not - the noise can be the effect of this.

Have a look at your discs - are the blued or golden? Overheated?
 
the pads on the nearside are wearing quicker thaan the offside and think I can sometimes hear them rubbing especially when going slow. Any thoughts?

On the type of brakes a freelander has, the most common thing is corrosion build up at the top and bottom of the pads, this jams the pads in the carrier causing the seized ones to not do much most of the time, but if you brake hard they'll move into contact with the disc then bind cos the don't release fully. When they're seized they will knacker the disc, not so much thro ware but because the corrosion doesn't get cleaned off thru normal use and they lose efficiency due to corrosion
Remove the pads if there's any doubt over their condition just replace them, take off the pad carrier, clear the corrosion of where ever the pad makes contact with a file. Coat these bits with copper slip. Inspect the disc, even if the outside looks fine the inside may not be, any big bands of rust going round them I'd replace them, also if they've worn thin or are excessively pitted. The face of the pads gives an indication too, you want pretty much flat, no big grooves. If in doubt, replace. Brakes are important and not that expensive.
 
I don't quite understand the logic here. Calipers can become resistant to returning through a build up of rust or crud under the seal thereby causing the piston to be held too tightly - braking pressure forces the piston out and as the seal is in effect distorted by the stuff under it the the natural release does not happen thereby holding the brake pad against the disc - this gets hot and expands - sometimes causing it to release sometimes not - the noise can be the effect of this.

Have a look at your discs - are the blued or golden? Overheated?

They should move off enough not to rub!
 
I don't quite understand the logic here. Calipers can become resistant to returning through a build up of rust or crud under the seal thereby causing the piston to be held too tightly - braking pressure forces the piston out and as the seal is in effect distorted by the stuff under it the the natural release does not happen thereby holding the brake pad against the disc - this gets hot and expands - sometimes causing it to release sometimes not - the noise can be the effect of this.

Have a look at your discs - are the blued or golden? Overheated?

That does happen but normally only if the boot is split allowing crud to get in. The piston seals etc distort as the piston moves out then pull it back very slightly which stops them binding. The caliper slide pins can also seize resulting in only one pad working!
 
I don't quite understand the logic here. Calipers can become resistant to returning through a build up of rust or crud under the seal thereby causing the piston to be held too tightly - braking pressure forces the piston out and as the seal is in effect distorted by the stuff under it the the natural release does not happen thereby holding the brake pad against the disc - this gets hot and expands - sometimes causing it to release sometimes not - the noise can be the effect of this.

Have a look at your discs - are the blued or golden? Overheated?

Hello angeloc

I am presuming that the caliper had seized, if this were the case the piston would move neither in or out so the pads would soon loose contact with the disc. Lets be honest most advice is only guesswork unless you can check the vehicle over yourself, bit like phoning the Doctor and asking what's wrong with me without him actually seeing you :)
 
Hello angeloc

I am presuming that the caliper had seized, if this were the case the piston would move neither in or out so the pads would soon loose contact with the disc. Lets be honest most advice is only guesswork unless you can check the vehicle over yourself, bit like phoning the Doctor and asking what's wrong with me without him actually seeing you :)

I've been a mechanic for twenty years! So mines an educated guess at least:) I just stated the most common thing for that type of brake caliper. I also have a freelander that did exactly that;)
 
I've been a mechanic for twenty years! So mines an educated guess at least:) I just stated the most common thing for that type of brake caliper. I also have a freelander that did exactly that;)
I've been a mechanic for over 50 years so my guesses are also educated but unless I actually see the defect my answers can still only be my opinion which, of course, may be incorrect :) I have also found that slight pressure in the braking system hydraulics is always present which maintains slight pressure on the pads which in turn results in the pads rubbing on the discs (proof of this pressure can be found when the bleed nipple is initially opened and a slight spurt of brake fluid occurs) if there were no pressure present the pistons could retract into the cylinders thereby increasing pedal travel and increasing brake delay.
 
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I've been a mechanic for over 50 years so my guesses are also educated but unless I actually see the defect my answers can still only be my opinion which, of course, may be incorrect :) I have also found that slight pressure in the braking system hydraulics is always present which maintains slight pressure on the pads which in turn results in the pads rubbing on the discs (proof of this pressure can be found when the bleed nipple is initially opened and a slight spurt of brake fluid occurs) if there were no pressure present the pistons could retract into the cylinders thereby increasing pedal travel and increasing brake delay.

Makes your guesses more educated;) but is that pressure due to the seals pulling the piston back very slightly?? I know what you mean. I guess only the designers know. But is it a design feature or does it just happen? I don't know! I'm just going on experience and what's most likely to be found. Ultimately snap on doesn't sell crystal balls so it is just guessing until some one takes a wheel off and has a look:)
Do get the wheels off and tell us a bit more. Then we can be of more help! Maybe;)
 
if brakes rubbing wearing more quickly on one side its either slides seizing or piston or both ,a lot of pressure pushes piston out but little back
 
What ever it is, whether it be sticky sliders, siezed caliper or corrosion on the pads it will require a strip down and a clean and grease no matter what it is. Whilst its in peices you may aswell clean and grease everything brake related just to give you piece of mind. I would chuck some new pads in there aswell whilst i was there
 
What ever it is, whether it be sticky sliders, siezed caliper or corrosion on the pads it will require a strip down and a clean and grease no matter what it is. Whilst its in peices you may aswell clean and grease everything brake related just to give you piece of mind. I would chuck some new pads in there aswell whilst i was there

Doesn't get much more common sense than that;)
 
Correct, my 04 had 2 sticking guide pins. Totally seized so i got new pads, disc's, guide pins and new caliper bolts and rebuilt the lot.

All brand new genuine LR parts, expensive but i now have superb braking. My inside pads were badly worn compaired to the outers.
 

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