kernowdragon

kernowdragon

Well-Known Member
EAS has started playing up with several sticking valves reported and although I've got a rebuild kit sitting here I really haven't the time to strip it down before the weekend, but I've got a couple of hundred miles to do before then.

Car isn't quite on the stops and will rise after a couple of miles but it's very slow.

What I'm wondering is, and this is the extreme bit... if I shoot WD40 into the pump inlet I suspect it might help free things temporarily, but how much damage might it do to other EAS components? The main one I can think of is contamination of the dryer media?
 
kernowdragon said:
EAS has started playing up with several sticking valves reported and although I've got a rebuild kit sitting here I really haven't the time to strip it down before the weekend, but I've got a couple of hundred miles to do before then.

Car isn't quite on the stops and will rise after a couple of miles but it's very slow.

What I'm wondering is, and this is the extreme bit... if I shoot WD40 into the pump inlet I suspect it might help free things temporarily, but how much damage might it do to other EAS components? The main one I can think of is contamination of the dryer media?
Click to expand...

disconnect the dryer before you try the wd40.
 
If you try igniting the WD as you spray it in you may find all your faults magically dissapear in a cloud of smoke....




























I'll get my coat.....:D
 
Problem is, that the WD might not get to the bits that are sticking if it's the actual solenoids rather than the "O" rings and it might not do the reast of it much good either. Better just pump it up and lock it.
 
DO NOT USE WD40 - its a dry system,you will create loads more problems than you will solve.The sticking valve faults are logged because the system does not have enough air to work with - or cannot get rid of it.
Most likely a knackered compressor if it wont rise,or leaky air springs.Or a blocked air silencer if it wont come down,dessicant from the receiver/dryer usually blocks them.
Leave the valve block alone till you have proved the compressor is good,if it is then about the only fault you will need to check is the inlet diaphram,something lke STC1807 - bloody dear,but if its split you have little choice.
 
eightinavee said:
DO NOT USE WD40 - its a dry system,you will create loads more problems than you will solve.The sticking valve faults are logged because the system does not have enough air to work with - or cannot get rid of it.
Most likely a knackered compressor if it wont rise,or leaky air springs.Or a blocked air silencer if it wont come down,dessicant from the receiver/dryer usually blocks them.
Leave the valve block alone till you have proved the compressor is good,if it is then about the only fault you will need to check is the inlet diaphram,something lke STC1807 - bloody dear,but if its split you have little choice.
Click to expand...
Cheers for that. The compressor was certainly fine day before yesterday, car was up and down fine, it isn't likely to have failed that suddenly is it? So I'll take a closer look at the pipe work, filter and silencer, although there seems to be no problem with releasing air, it drops to access fine. I've got a full rebuild kit including diaphrams, so hopefully that'll be enough to sort it. I was just hopeing to avoid stripping it all down.
 
As eight in a vee said don't use WD40.

Get the air tank full by leaving the RR run for 15 minutes with the door open. Set the suspension to normal height and then disconnect the ECU under the passenger seat. This will disable the system and prevent the self levelling, keeping what air is in the bags.

You can then sort out the compressor or whatever other faults are there.

You might be able to find some of these locally to allow you fill each of the bags seperatly
eBay.ie: Air Suspension Manual Inflation Valve - Range Rover P38 (item 370123695443 end time 27-Dec-09 10:59:26 GMT)
 
Have the cyl head off the compressor and check the seal - it does sound like just a lack of air,the other easy thing to do is to have the engine running,compressor running and then remove the white air silencer.Stick yer thumb over where the silencer screws in,if you can feel air escaping then the inlet diaphram has split.
I use a pressure gauge tee'd into the resvoir line,it takes 70-80psi to start lifting the car up,from memory about 100-110 to get it to full height,(Dont take these as benchmark figures - I've had rather alot of wine and its a few months since I checked one out.)but 140psi to switch out the pressure switch.
 
Thanks for that 8inav. I'll check them in the morning. I've got a gauge ready to plumb in, as part of an air takeoff setup, so I'll see what it reads.
 
Didn't have time to check everything this morning, but fuses and relays are ok; however the pump is not running at all on startup or on commnd from EAS software. It must however start running once the car is in motion because the car will rise from access to low over the course of the first couple of miles, but won't go any higher. There is no fault showing on the dash either, nor the usual four flashing lights.
 
I'll go along with it being the compressor piston seal as well. Possibly the reed valves in compressor head are built up with crud and also the filter foam/felt if stuffed which wouldn't be helping either. All very easy to repair and should be able to have it out and back in running in a bit over an hour tops.
 
Have managed to limp around for last 2 days, suspended somewhere between access and low, with all 4 lights on but no fault reported on dash. Managed to get lucky on fleabay and get a complete EAS unit, pump, driver and valve block at a sensible price, which is local so I'm gonna pick it up tomorrow and get it fitted, then I can rebuild mine at my leisure and have it as a back up for the next time, (on the basis that if I have a spare, the one in the car will never fail - cause that's just the way life is!)
 
Don`t know how relavent it is in this case, but the EAS air pump can fail on the electrical side as well as the pump/piston side. A 2nd hand replacement I put in mine was fitted with new piston seal `n` seemed bright `n` clean, but probably due to years of overwork, the elec motor brushes wore into the commutator, 1 or 2 segmets broke off, and the pump then worked well to a good pressure, but sometimes would not start (if on a dead spot) until going over a bump, which jarred it enough to start it. Good luck with re-furbing your system, if i can offer a little advice: keep everything scrupulously clean & dry; use only a tiny film of grease on the seals, and either replace dryer granules, or at least dry them out so you`re starting with a clean slate. (I baked mine in foil tray ot 90C for half-hour). If you check out the relays on the bench remember they`ll burn out at 12volts. Check the book for wnat`s acceptable. Have fun!
 
gtland said:
Don`t know how relavent it is in this case, but the EAS air pump can fail on the electrical side as well as the pump/piston side. A 2nd hand replacement I put in mine was fitted with new piston seal `n` seemed bright `n` clean, but probably due to years of overwork, the elec motor brushes wore into the commutator, 1 or 2 segmets broke off, and the pump then worked well to a good pressure, but sometimes would not start (if on a dead spot) until going over a bump, which jarred it enough to start it. Good luck with re-furbing your system, if i can offer a little advice: keep everything scrupulously clean & dry; use only a tiny film of grease on the seals, and either replace dryer granules, or at least dry them out so you`re starting with a clean slate. (I baked mine in foil tray ot 90C for half-hour). If you check out the relays on the bench remember they`ll burn out at 12volts. Check the book for wnat`s acceptable. Have fun!
Click to expand...
Thanks for that Gtland. I'll let you know what I find when I get it apart. Haven't managed to get anywhere today as guy I bought replacement from hasn't contacted me about collecting it yet.

RoverRenovations recommend Vasaline to lube the o rings etc. would you stick with that or recommend something else more high tec, bearing in mind it'll be going into storage. I don't want it drying out and caking, because I'll vacuum pack it with some silica gel once I've rebuilt it. I've some white lithium grease here which I thought might do the job, which says it's safe for use on rubber?
 
Still waiting for ebay vendor to contact me about collecting new unit, but now having probs with EAS cable too, as it's now decided not to read settings. I've had it apart and the pins are connected right. Managed to use my standard OBD cable to read faults and got the following back since last cleared:

3 : F8:8_Hidden
4 : RL signal incorrect
5 : F8:32_Hidden
6 : RR signal incorrect
7 : F8:128_Hidden
0 : Engine speed fault
3 : Pressure signal constantly low
4 : Air supply fault
5 : Air supply leak
6 : Target heights incorrect
7 : Vehicle has moved
1 : Cannot lower FR
3 : Cannot lower RR
4 : FA:16_Hidden
5 : FA:32_Hidden
6 : FA:64_Hidden
7 : FA:128_Hidden
0 : FL valve stuck open
1 : FR valve stuck open
3 : RR valve stuck open
4 : Inlet valve stuck open
5 : Exhaust valve stuck open
6 : FB:64_Hidden
7 : FB:128_Hidden
2 : RL valve stuck closed
3 : RR valve stuck closed
4 : Inlet valve stuck closed
5 : Exhaust valve stuck closed
6 : FC:64_Hidden
7 : FC:128_Hidden

Also checked pipe/joints for leaks, but no sign of any bubbles, but then if pump knackered there'd be no pressure anyway:doh: If the EAS is not responding to commands via PC or otherwise and assuming cable is actually still ok, could the real problem be either the ECM or driver block?
 
kernowdragon said:
Have managed to limp around for last 2 days, suspended somewhere between access and low, with all 4 lights on but no fault reported on dash. Managed to get lucky on fleabay and get a complete EAS unit, pump, driver and valve block at a sensible price, which is local so I'm gonna pick it up tomorrow and get it fitted, then I can rebuild mine at my leisure and have it as a back up for the next time, (on the basis that if I have a spare, the one in the car will never fail - cause that's just the way life is!)
Click to expand...

Grr. That was probly the one I was bidding on!

Where did you get your overhaul kit from?

Guy
 
kernowdragon said:
but now having probs with EAS cable too, as it's now decided not to read settings. I've had it apart and the pins are connected right. Managed to use my standard OBD cable to read faults and got the following back since last cleared:?
Click to expand...

Hmm,

I don't think you should be able to uses a standard cable to read EAS faults,I thought the wiring is to the wrong pins?
 
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