kooky_guy said:
Grr. That was probly the one I was bidding on!

Where did you get your overhaul kit from?

Guy
Click to expand...
Sorry if it was the EAS unit you were bidding on, (this ones in Newbury, Berks). To be honest considering it was a complete pump/valve block/driver unit I was surprised that I managed to get it at the price I did.

The overhaul kit came from RoverRenovations, who seem to know their business and have quite clear instructions you can download; however I have seen complete sets of seals on ebay too, but couldn't tell you if they're any good, and I don't think they include diaphrams either (but then neither does the RR one).
 
kernowdragon said:
Sorry if it was the EAS unit you were bidding on, (this ones in Newbury, Berks). To be honest considering it was a complete pump/valve block/driver unit I was surprised that I managed to get it at the price I did.

The overhaul kit came from RoverRenovations, who seem to know their business and have quite clear instructions you can download; however I have seen complete sets of seals on ebay too, but couldn't tell you if they're any good, and I don't think they include diaphrams either (but then neither does the RR one).
Click to expand...

No worries. All's fair in war and ebay. I'm sticking to my minute budget though! Hopefully one will come along at the right price eventually.

RR also sell recon valve blocks and a reconditioning service. I'm very tempted to just send mine over there...
 
kernowdragon said:
Have you managed to sort anything out with your Arnotts yet?
Click to expand...

Kind of. Spoke to P38spares this morning and they were very helpful. He just wanted some photos of the trashed spring and is sending a replacement, although I have to pay the courier charge, which I spose is fair enough as I need it urgently.

Hopefully it will arrive tomorrow so I can have fun in the cold and dark fitting the buggr!

Guy
 
At least they didn't quibble over it.

Looks like I could be in the cold n dark too, this damn ebay vendor still hasn't got back to me to let me know when I can pick up the EAS.

I wonder if it's someone on here? then I could PM them as they're not answering my emails:mad::mad: and it's been 3 days now! Good job I said cash on collection, I'd be really ****ed if I'd paypal'd the dosh and couldn't get hold of them!
 
kernowdragon said:
At least they didn't quibble over it.

Looks like I could be in the cold n dark too, this damn ebay vendor still hasn't got back to me to let me know when I can pick up the EAS.

I wonder if it's someone on here? then I could PM them as they're not answering my emails:mad::mad: and it's been 3 days now! Good job I said cash on collection, I'd be really ****ed if I'd paypal'd the dosh and couldn't get hold of them!
Click to expand...

I hate sellers like that. Have you pestered him more than once? He might take more notice if you send a couple of emails. Or not. But worth a try.

Guy
 
He might just be on holiday or somethin.

Still, it's not really good enough. What's his feedback like?
 
Managed to collect EAS unit at lunch time today, and then fit it this afternoon, without any major headaches:), except the vendor wasn't where he said in the listing but about 15 miles further away!:eek: Pump now runs fine; however the car still isn't rising:eek:! Bubble tested all the joints I'd disturbed on the block and found no leaks, nor on dryer, or front airbags, so the problem must be under the car, either rear bags or receiver or their respective pipes.:confused:

Can someone confirm some assumptions for me?:doh:

  1. it's possible to inflate each corner independently
  2. each corner is NOT interlinked with another
Therefore if none of the bags will inflate the problem must lie on the supply side of the block not output. i.e. the burntout/fubar compressor was most likely due to a supply side leak.

This means that the leak must be in either the feed/return from the dryer, or the link between block and receiver. Am I right in thinking the block/receiver link is line 6 into the block, the one closest to the front of the car?:confused:

Assuming the above is true... my action plan for tomorrow is to rig a temporary airline between block and receiver to confirm my diagnosis, and further assuming all goes well route a proper replacement line for it.:)
 
kernowdragon said:
  1. it's possible to inflate each corner independently
  2. each corner is NOT interlinked with another
Click to expand...

Go onto RR.net and look up the pigtail method of operating the EAS using jumper wires at the EAS ECU plug. Its reasonably simple and it will do a lot of diagnosis for you.

As to above:
1. yes each corner can be operated independantly using the pigtail method.
2. No they are not interlinked.

As to the EAS you've bought off ebay, I've found to my cost that a lot of the bits like this that turn up on ebay are there for a good reason i.e. they're fooked! I've been caught with a few now, HEVAC control unit, EAS driver. The same goes for ones you get from a breaker. I get bits from a guy who converts P38's to coils. The trouble is (and this is where a lot of the ebay ones come from) theres a bloody good reason they've been thrown off. Its more than likely got a worn compressor or dud drive pack. I don't mind, I'm buying with my eyes open and I buy them to make a spare rather than when I need a spare. The specialist I buy from flat refuses to repair EAS, he's a replace with springs man only. He's a dyed in the wool defender/RRC guy, hates P38 electronics, and says it rarely pays to repair EAS so he gives them to me cheap (He previously completly redid my engine when the head went so has already had loads of my cash!). I then buy the repair items from Dennis at Roverrenovation.com in the states (shupack on here and RR.net), he sends really quickly and is an all round great guy.
 
SpudH said:
Go onto RR.net and look up the pigtail method of operating the EAS using jumper wires at the EAS ECU plug. Its reasonably simple and it will do a lot of diagnosis for you.

As to above:
1. yes each corner can be operated independantly using the pigtail method.
2. No they are not interlinked.

As to the EAS you've bought off ebay, I've found to my cost that a lot of the bits like this that turn up on ebay are there for a good reason i.e. they're fooked! I've been caught with a few now, HEVAC control unit, EAS driver. The same goes for ones you get from a breaker. I get bits from a guy who converts P38's to coils. The trouble is (and this is where a lot of the ebay ones come from) theres a bloody good reason they've been thrown off. Its more than likely got a worn compressor or dud drive pack. I don't mind, I'm buying with my eyes open and I buy them to make a spare rather than when I need a spare. The specialist I buy from flat refuses to repair EAS, he's a replace with springs man only. He's a dyed in the wool defender/RRC guy, hates P38 electronics, and says it rarely pays to repair EAS so he gives them to me cheap (He previously completly redid my engine when the head went so has already had loads of my cash!). I then buy the repair items from Dennis at Roverrenovation.com in the states (shupack on here and RR.net), he sends really quickly and is an all round great guy.
Click to expand...

The plan is/was to use the replacement unit as a stop gap to keep the car on the road whilst I rebuilt my original one, as I've already got the kit from RR. I just wanted the breathing space to do it at my leisure. Assuming the unit is OK, and I was assured it was, is my logic on the cause/cure sound?
 
There are many reports of rear airlines going where they cross over the chassis rail near the exhaust.
But by far the most common leak is a worn bag, what condition are yours?

Even without doing the pigtail method, there are anumber of things you need to confirm.
1. is air getting to the tank, to do this run the car with a door open for 15minutes and see if the compressor stops. If it cuts out with a quick hiss than more than likely it has reached the required pressure (around 150psi).
2. Press the manual button and put it to motorway height.
3. close the door.
The rear should immediately rise to access height quickly followed by the front then the rear will go to the selected motorway height followed by the front. This will tell a lot as the front will not budge until the rear has reached the height stage. So if the rear is slow to go up your problem is at the back, likewise the front. But if the rear does not make the second move you've likely got a bad leak at the front.

If you get the hang of the pigtail method you can isolate things much better as you are taking the ECU and drive pack out of the equation as fault sources.
 
SpudH said:
There are many reports of rear airlines going where they cross over the chassis rail near the exhaust.
But by far the most common leak is a worn bag, what condition are yours?

Even without doing the pigtail method, there are anumber of things you need to confirm.
1. is air getting to the tank, to do this run the car with a door open for 15minutes and see if the compressor stops. If it cuts out with a quick hiss than more than likely it has reached the required pressure (around 150psi).
2. Press the manual button and put it to motorway height.
3. close the door.
The rear should immediately rise to access height quickly followed by the front then the rear will go to the selected motorway height followed by the front. This will tell a lot as the front will not budge until the rear has reached the height stage. So if the rear is slow to go up your problem is at the back, likewise the front. But if the rear does not make the second move you've likely got a bad leak at the front.

If you get the hang of the pigtail method you can isolate things much better as you are taking the ECU and drive pack out of the equation as fault sources.
Click to expand...

Did 1-3 this afternoon, compressor did cut out after about 15 minutes but hot and nothing moved. Decompress via software produced no air either from bags or receiver, and disconnecting line 6 produced just a quick puff.
 
Eightinavee might be right but take the compressor apart too. Obviously check the condition of the seal and sleeve but also check the little reed valves, these can break and the compressor will spin merrily while putting out no air while if the little orings underneath ar gone it will struggle to produce anything worthwhile.
 
Cheers Guys, I'll take a look tomorrow. Remember me if you hear about a hypothermic guy found frozen head first in his engine bay.:eek::D:D
 
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