Grit Valve
2000 4.6 Vouge
Only if needed check for leaks first
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Most likely place for the leak is where the pipe enters the airspring.
Overhauling the valve block is well worthwhile, in particular replacing the diaphragm. Also a good idea to replace the dryer at the same time as you may find the drying medium is breaking up and contaminating the valve block.
Care is needed when doing the valve block and absolute cleanliness.
Valiante
New Member
Ok, soapy water test finally done (the boy's been keeping us busy so only just got around to it this afternoon)..
I'm getting bubbles at the valve block from both the green (front right) and black (front left) air-line outlets. Which makes sense as it always seems to go down by the nose first, bit like Titanic.
I've tried re-seating the air-lines, but this doesn't seem to make any difference.. pushed them in as best as I can, but they're still leaky. What do you think the next step should be?
I'm getting bubbles at the valve block from both the green (front right) and black (front left) air-line outlets. Which makes sense as it always seems to go down by the nose first, bit like Titanic.
I've tried re-seating the air-lines, but this doesn't seem to make any difference.. pushed them in as best as I can, but they're still leaky. What do you think the next step should be?
Try pushing them in a little further when car is pressured up. If that does not work and you changed the O rings when you did block. Trim about 5 or 6 mm off the end of the pipes, ( don't trim too much off so bulge in pipe fouls collet) a smear of silicone grease and refit. Again pushing that little bit further in when there is pressure on them.
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Grit Valve
2000 4.6 Vouge
As above ,but do we really have to answer that fronts are shortest replace lines or bodge with joiners and new pipe ....
Sorry ****ed and 45 tomorrow ye haaaaaaaaaaaaa .......
Valiante
New Member
I haven't done anything with the block yet.. to date I've replaced all four springs and the compressor. Valve block hasn't been touched.. I was wondering if that should be next, or the air lines.
Grit Valve
2000 4.6 Vouge
Der if its comming out the pipe collets need to change o rings Homer Simpson simples ,,,,,
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Grit Valve
2000 4.6 Vouge
But maybe he might like to change the two 6mm O rings behind each collet.
Yea and rebuild the block on the safe side ............ Der
Grit Valve
2000 4.6 Vouge
Most likely place for the leak is where the pipe enters the airspring.
Overhauling the valve block is well worthwhile, in particular replacing the diaphragm. Also a good idea to replace the dryer at the same time as you may find the drying medium is breaking up and contaminating the valve block.
Care is needed when doing the valve block and absolute cleanliness.
...
Grit Valve
2000 4.6 Vouge
And the point of that was?
If it ain't broke don't fix,just like my signature cars are a to be devices why spend money on it if it works , oh yes love for them. To me suggest rebuilding something for the sake of it you fix things that don't work not just in case !
Can't quite see where you're coming from here, did i suggest a full valve block overhaul to fix a leaking pipe somewhere. Can't remember saying that.
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Grit Valve
2000 4.6 Vouge
That's why I used some one else's quote ...and have edited my mistake earlier
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Preventive maintenance is never a waste of time. If the diaphragm fails on your hols it's would be a pain in the butt. All these parts have a finite life, better replace before it fails at a time that suits.
The airlines should be OK unless melted by an exhaust blow.
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