Ah yes I saw a youtube video about that somewhere a while back. Ok, will give that a try and see if I find any bubbles. I'm also wondering if it's worth just rebuilding the valve block as a matter of maintenance, renewing the o-rings, etc. Worthwhile?
 
Ah yes I saw a youtube video about that somewhere a while back. Ok, will give that a try and see if I find any bubbles. I'm also wondering if it's worth just rebuilding the valve block as a matter of maintenance, renewing the o-rings, etc. Worthwhile?

Only if needed check for leaks first
 
Ah yes I saw a youtube video about that somewhere a while back. Ok, will give that a try and see if I find any bubbles. I'm also wondering if it's worth just rebuilding the valve block as a matter of maintenance, renewing the o-rings, etc. Worthwhile?

Most likely place for the leak is where the pipe enters the airspring.
Overhauling the valve block is well worthwhile, in particular replacing the diaphragm. Also a good idea to replace the dryer at the same time as you may find the drying medium is breaking up and contaminating the valve block.
Care is needed when doing the valve block and absolute cleanliness. :)
 
Well done on your efforts so far! As Datatek says,leak is probably at the new airspring where the pipe enters,but worth checking the entire pipe length on the offending corner just in case it has been nicked or chaffed somewhere.
Almost there mate,keep the faith ;)
 
My thinking is that it must be something which hasn't been renewed, as it's sagging at the same corner as before. So I'm thinking air line or valve block. But I'll do the soapy water test and see what turns up.
 
Ok, soapy water test finally done (the boy's been keeping us busy so only just got around to it this afternoon)..

I'm getting bubbles at the valve block from both the green (front right) and black (front left) air-line outlets. Which makes sense as it always seems to go down by the nose first, bit like Titanic.

I've tried re-seating the air-lines, but this doesn't seem to make any difference.. pushed them in as best as I can, but they're still leaky. What do you think the next step should be?
 
Ok, soapy water test finally done (the boy's been keeping us busy so only just got around to it this afternoon)..

I'm getting bubbles at the valve block from both the green (front right) and black (front left) air-line outlets. Which makes sense as it always seems to go down by the nose first, bit like Titanic.

I've tried re-seating the air-lines, but this doesn't seem to make any difference.. pushed them in as best as I can, but they're still leaky. What do you think the next step should be?

Try pushing them in a little further when car is pressured up. If that does not work and you changed the O rings when you did block. Trim about 5 or 6 mm off the end of the pipes, ( don't trim too much off so bulge in pipe fouls collet) a smear of silicone grease and refit. Again pushing that little bit further in when there is pressure on them.
 
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Ok, soapy water test finally done (the boy's been keeping us busy so only just got around to it this afternoon)..

I'm getting bubbles at the valve block from both the green (front right) and black (front left) air-line outlets. Which makes sense as it always seems to go down by the nose first, bit like Titanic.

I've tried re-seating the air-lines, but this doesn't seem to make any difference.. pushed them in as best as I can, but they're still leaky. What do you think the next step should be?
As above ,but do we really have to answer that fronts are shortest replace lines or bodge with joiners and new pipe ....
Sorry ****ed and 45 tomorrow ye haaaaaaaaaaaaa .......
 
If that does not work and you changed the O rings when you did block. Trim about 5 or 6 mm off the end of the pipes
I haven't done anything with the block yet.. to date I've replaced all four springs and the compressor. Valve block hasn't been touched.. I was wondering if that should be next, or the air lines.
 
I haven't done anything with the block yet.. to date I've replaced all four springs and the compressor. Valve block hasn't been touched.. I was wondering if that should be next, or the air lines.

Der if its comming out the pipe collets need to change o rings Homer Simpson simples ,,,,,
 
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Most likely place for the leak is where the pipe enters the airspring.
Overhauling the valve block is well worthwhile, in particular replacing the diaphragm. Also a good idea to replace the dryer at the same time as you may find the drying medium is breaking up and contaminating the valve block.
Care is needed when doing the valve block and absolute cleanliness. :)

...
 
And the point of that was? :)

If it ain't broke don't fix,just like my signature cars are a to be devices why spend money on it if it works , oh yes love for them. To me suggest rebuilding something for the sake of it you fix things that don't work not just in case !
 
If it ain't broke don't fix,just like my signature cars are a to be devices why spend money on it if it works , oh yes love for them. To me suggest rebuilding something for the sake of it you fix things that don't work not just in case !

Can't quite see where you're coming from here, did i suggest a full valve block overhaul to fix a leaking pipe somewhere. Can't remember saying that.
 
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If it ain't broke don't fix,just like my signature cars are a to be devices why spend money on it if it works , oh yes love for them. To me suggest rebuilding something for the sake of it you fix things that don't work not just in case !

Preventive maintenance is never a waste of time. If the diaphragm fails on your hols it's would be a pain in the butt. All these parts have a finite life, better replace before it fails at a time that suits.:)

The airlines should be OK unless melted by an exhaust blow.
 
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