mediaseller
Member
Hi All.
So I finally got around to ordering a used front L/H door lock/actuator which duly arrived.
After spending and hour removing the old unit and grazing half of my skin off I had the unit out and compared it to the replacement I discovered that the ordered unit was for the rear door and not the front.
All this was down to a photo mismatch to the description on eBay so inadvertenly I'd ordered the wrong part.
Having spoken to the nice man who supplied it he sent me a replacement via 24 hour post.
Imagine my anger when the replacement was found to be faulty so another one will have to be sent again.
Anyway I decided to do some surgery with my Dremmel on my original unit and cut out a small section of the white plastic in the area of the unlock motor and tested it in the car.
The motor does atempt to turn and spins for a short while until it comes up against the cam that it's supposed to move and then it runs out of grunt. This confirms that it is indeed the motor which has worn out dispite it being free enough to turn by hand. My guess id that the windings inside have burned out and gone high resistance and can't deliver enough torque to do it's job.
A tip for others here is if you replace your old lock to secure your vehicle without leaving the manual pull cable attached as I did will come a cropper when trying to open the door from inside.
I had visions of cutting the door apart to open it. I even went to the expense of buying a endoscope from Maplin to see inside the door panel and still couldn't find a way to open it. Eventually I memorised the location of the locks parts and using a bent coat hanger managed to hook it on to the unlock latch and open it. I reckon I could do this blindfold now.
So the lesson here is buy new parts for hard to reach jobs.
Iv'e got a rear window wiper motor to replace on Monday. Whish me look with this one. (Maybe I should hang on to the endoscope for now).
Cheers
Paul
So I finally got around to ordering a used front L/H door lock/actuator which duly arrived.
After spending and hour removing the old unit and grazing half of my skin off I had the unit out and compared it to the replacement I discovered that the ordered unit was for the rear door and not the front.
All this was down to a photo mismatch to the description on eBay so inadvertenly I'd ordered the wrong part.
Having spoken to the nice man who supplied it he sent me a replacement via 24 hour post.
Imagine my anger when the replacement was found to be faulty so another one will have to be sent again.
Anyway I decided to do some surgery with my Dremmel on my original unit and cut out a small section of the white plastic in the area of the unlock motor and tested it in the car.
The motor does atempt to turn and spins for a short while until it comes up against the cam that it's supposed to move and then it runs out of grunt. This confirms that it is indeed the motor which has worn out dispite it being free enough to turn by hand. My guess id that the windings inside have burned out and gone high resistance and can't deliver enough torque to do it's job.
A tip for others here is if you replace your old lock to secure your vehicle without leaving the manual pull cable attached as I did will come a cropper when trying to open the door from inside.
I had visions of cutting the door apart to open it. I even went to the expense of buying a endoscope from Maplin to see inside the door panel and still couldn't find a way to open it. Eventually I memorised the location of the locks parts and using a bent coat hanger managed to hook it on to the unlock latch and open it. I reckon I could do this blindfold now.
So the lesson here is buy new parts for hard to reach jobs.
Iv'e got a rear window wiper motor to replace on Monday. Whish me look with this one. (Maybe I should hang on to the endoscope for now).
Cheers
Paul
