g-mack

g-mack

Active Member
Ok last night when I got in the disco i couldn't close the door. after a bit of jeremy clarkson ( no idea what i'm doing) style fiddling with a screw driver i managed to get it to close.
however the SLS system has now raised to its full height and wont go down.
I think i remember the doors having a link somehow. can anyone enlighten me.
warning light is on.
no sound from compressor so im assuming its not continually trying to inflate.
car is perfectly level.
cheers peeps.
ps.
ive done an extensive search but can't find any info on my problem
 
The only link AFAIK is that the doors all have to be closed before the compressor kicks in. But I would think it's the courtesy light switches that are used to detect this rather than the door locks.
 
The system works only with all doors/taildoor closed cos it's conceived like that...BUT if the failure was generated by a door switch it would have disturbed the central locking/alarm too... the fact that u have a warning on it means there is a SLS component failure. Shortest way to get an answer is to plug in a tester and read the SLS related fault code. As long as u dont get an audible warning(short horn sound) when u lock the car IMO u dont have probs with the door switches...it's something else. First thing to do is to check fusible link FL9 and relay R5(swap it with R8/heated screen for test) in engine bay fusebox... if u have probs with the central locking too we'll speak again;)... if not read the fault code ASAP or u might end with a burnt compressor...the fact that the car stays on level is good news, it means there's no leak in the system, but in time it will drop if u dont fix it.

The direct answer for your question : "Opening any of the doors will power up the ECU, irrespective of ignition switch position. The door open signal is
sensed by the door switch completing an earth path which is sensed by the ECU. The ECU cannot differentiate between any of the doors. The door open signal powers the ECU for up to 30 minutes to allow the vehicle to re-level when a load is removed or passengers leave the vehicle."

*ECU in this case means SL(ABS) ECU
 
Last edited:
Thankyou for your advice it is much appreciated. I will have a go at fuse and relay tomorrow see if I get any joy. Strange thing is I gave it a short run this afternoon and the warning light wasnt on but suspension was still in off road position!
I'm also off to the Look at the test reader sticky to see if Anyone near me is willing to put there code reader on it for me.
 
g-mack said:
Thankyou for your advice it is much appreciated. I will have a go at fuse and relay tomorrow see if I get any joy. Strange thing is I gave it a short run this afternoon and the warning light wasnt on but suspension was still in off road position!
I'm also off to the Look at the test reader sticky to see if Anyone near me is willing to put there code reader on it for me.
Click to expand...

If u mean that the back is higher than the front and the ORM light is not on it means it's not in off road mode but the sensors calibration is disturbed and that's why the compressor doesnt kick in. Anyway the ORM must be automaticaly disengaged when the speed goes above 18mph. Put something real heavy in the boot(or ask two friends to stay there for test) as to be visible the load in the rear height(at least 5cm lower) all doors/taidoor closed and start the engine then... if it will rise back it means that the compressor is working an it's some system error. ...if u see what i mean.
 
I'm not getting what you mean. The rear is at stuck at full height. I have drove it over 18 mph (40mph to be precise) but it still doesn't return to normal height. Sorry I didn't mean the ORM light I meant the SLS warning light.
So yesterday SLS warning light comes on and the suspension is fully raised.
Today SLS light off but suspension still fully raised.
I've read the release valve on RR l322 system can stick in cold weather, is it same system on disco? Could it be a sticky release valve ?
 
D2 SLS is different than RR's EAS. I understood that u had the SLS warning...i wanted to tell u that IMO IF the ORM light is not on then the fact that it's higher than normal is not due to ORM but due to some system fault and the compressor is not pumping cos the height sensors ar on the top limit and the ECU doesnt give command to the compressor.... i presumed that if it's decalibrated and that's why it's higher then by putting load in the back the sensor will leave the higher limit and the ECU will activate the compressor. If sometimes u used ORM and after that it didnt resume to normal height there could be trouble with the exhaust valve though, but i dont think it' stuck, maybe electrical or management issue. u could try to disconnect the sensors from the radius arms and move the links down a bit with your hand(to simulate that the back is even higher than now)....then the ECU must give command to deflate and open the exhaust valve... if it's not a management fault. Be aware not to move the sensor link upwards cos in this case if the system might think the car dropped and the compressor will overpump the bag . If not, by plugging in a tester u can run circuit test for the SLS or u will be wiser by reading the fault code.
 
Last edited:
ok quick update.
main fault was caused by snapped sensor arm so it jacked up rear. once i bodged that back into position it let some air out. so its sitting at engine off position and nice and level.
Now compressor wont put air back in. (tried with ORM) have swapped r5 relay and checked FL 9 (relay i think was knackered as SlS warning lamp came back on when I replaced R5)
so what now? could I have toasted the compressor? what the hell is the fuse for if compressor can be destroyed in one day!
 
The easyest way is to read the fault code. ... Now i dont entirely understand ... is the car down on bumps or is it on level?
 
its down a little, like its normal resting position when i come out in the morning before using it. i don't have a fault reader.
are there any other fuses to check?
 
Not really, the other fuses would have disturbetd the ABS too i think, here are the failures, maybe u are lucky without tester but it will be hard this way

97830059.png
 
quick progress update.
found F11 blown replaced it with fingers crossed. still not working.
so took compressor off gave it a good clean (was in good nick anyway) and tested with a 10amp 12v supply. works fine.
so that only leaves the sensors right?
could the rubber mount comin off the chassis arm really cuase the sensors to fail? ie in any position it wont send a call for air?
one quick last question.
is there anyway to get air into the bags manually?
i was thinking putting 12v to compressor and to the individual valves to let air in?
 
If the car's back is even u can feed the compressor and the two air supply valves at the same time and it will rise. Be carefull to cut the feed when it's on level as to not overinflate the bags. Before that unplug every electric connector in the compressor housing and leave them disconnected otherwise it could get a command for the exhaust valve and drop again. If there are no leaks along the system it will stay on level for days. If it's not even feed the compressor and one valve at a time untill u bring it to level.
 
Sorted !!!
Bought 2 new sensors from stealers, (got 15% discount for being last customer on Xmas eve !!) cost £60.
All working fine now.
Big thanks sierrafery for your help, I owe you a drink (but not my blood!)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

R
Help Can anyone confirm all starting related components and requirements ?
9 10 11
Replies
204
Views
15K
Joe_H
Joe_H
Dr_evil
Series King Cab
61 62 63
Replies
1K
Views
143K
discomark10
discomark10
Hedgehog70
TD5 Head Gasket & PAS Box Replaced - Job Done! (Long)
Replies
7
Views
13K
andy85
andy85
Hedgehog70
  • Sticky
TD5 Head Gasket & PAS Box Replaced - Job Done! (Long)
Replies
3
Views
10K
williamraff
W