As I said in an earlier post, 25mA is in the grand scheme of vehicle electrics almost too small to worry about.
25 milliamps is 0.025 of an Amp. Put another way, it's one tenth of one quarter of an amp.
There might be circuits on the vehicle which operate in very short bursts drawing a current of more than 25mA, but over a period of time, that will also average out to the 25mA level.
The only thing to do is to actually measure it, speculating will accomplish very little.
 
cheers guys for the great heads up

got it from good authority concerning the split system, by the sounds of it been totally misinformed

i think it's every 6 x hours that it does a suspension level check

this is basically what i would like to try and achieve for an aux battery to be there in reserve if the main cranking battery is too low to turn the engine over

didn't realise that i would have to run another circuit to for example another socket in the boot

think i need to look at the wiring and installation of these t max systems

funny when u think something is nice and simple in the beginning , lol

do appreciate the great help as i know it's correct from u guys , thks
 
gstuart said:
this is basically what i would like to try and achieve for an aux battery to be there in reserve if the main cranking battery is too low to turn the engine over
Click to expand...
You've just fitted a brand spanking new shiny battery, so taking into account what I said in message #12 and also message #41, you'll have to leave the vehicle standing for an awfully long time, not even weeks, more like months before you're going to need a boost from another battery to turn the engine over.
 
brian47 said:
You've just fitted a brand spanking new shiny battery, so taking into account what I said in message #12 and also message #41, you'll have to leave the vehicle standing for an awfully long time, not even weeks, more like months before you're going to need a boost from another battery to turn the engine over.
Click to expand...

don't worry i have and taken notice of posts

well hopefully then the new battery won't run down

there are often times when i don't use the landy for a week or so

been looking through the T max split charge system

this is an answer of a question i asked


Yes the t-max will allow the cooler to be run off the aux battery and will not cross-link them, so the main starting battery is fully protected from discharging. If you want to link them explicitly you can, so if for some reason your main battery is run down e.g. you left lights on, you can link them with a button press, and then use the aux as the jump for the main. When you start the engine, the main battery is charged first, and then when it's fully charged the aux battery is topped up. All happens automatically.
 
Just a quick one, i do a bit of sailing and the system on the boat goes like this. 3 batteries 3 x iso switches . So when engine on all switches on . Engine off in port engine switch off 1 aux off and 1 on for lighting if no shore power. If power on shore all on charge . So iso switches might be a simple cheaper option
 
Tony e said:
Just a quick one, i do a bit of sailing and the system on the boat goes like this. 3 batteries 3 x iso switches . So when engine on all switches on . Engine off in port engine switch off 1 aux off and 1 on for lighting if no shore power. If power on shore all on charge . So iso switches might be a simple cheaper option
Click to expand...

on reading further it seems that the t max will automatically switch over according to which battery needs the charge

looks as though, if i just want a back up for the crank battery to get another crank battery

if i wanted a separate line to get a deep cycle battery

looking at it, seems a lot simplier to just get another crank battery , so that i have that back up, also won't then have to run any extra wires, as the T max will allow both batteries to run on the same circuit
 
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