Datatek
Well-Known Member
OEM not Brtipart
fortgrange
Active Member
As has been said go for genuine. I've had all sorts of issues with pattern stats. Don't be fooled by price when you see one for sale at +£30, that isn't genuine, they're above £60!!! Ridiculous I know but it does come in a nice plastic housing that seems to justify LR sticking £50 on the price!!!
I recently bought a brand new rear bumper for the Classic for £45 including shipping,which I thought was a bargain. Quite how they work out the pricing on these parts is beyond me.
mozz smith
Well-Known Member
hi , where are you based ????? i have a load of genuine working spare for the 4.6 ???? i have them on e-bay and in the for sale section here on landyrange ,,hope this helps cheers mozz
Wouldn't hurt - and don't use boiling water - if you have a cooking thermometer or similar, place in a saucepan and bring up to the stat working temp - usually between 85-88degC and see what happens....
Hi,
Welcome to the P38 overheating club - i know what you're going through - i have a yr 2000 4.0L petrol and sorry to say suffer the same problem.
This what i have fitted:
Had new head gasket
new o rings on matrix
new water pump
new radiator
new hoses
3 x new thermostats
OEM new expansion vessel cap
checked,double checked,triple checked quadruple checks for air locks - all removed
new viscious fan
Condenser fans do work - ive seen them turning - nothing to do with cooling
No leaks
This is what i did the other day:
Filled radiator from top hose, filled system and bled completely of air.
started and allowed her to warm up
internal heater chucking out hot air (very hot) with fan on full (air con off)
allowed to trick over for 55 mins - all ok
revved to 2500 rpm and kept there for approx 5 mins - done this on a couple of occasions during the aforementioned 55 mins - all ok
water level stayed same throughout test dropping only 1 cm during who time - not due to leak - most likely due to removal of a small amount of air.
top of rad hot - bottom of rad cold
top of thermostat hot - bottom of thermostat cold
heater matrix flow and return hot
top hose pressurised but still could be squeezed a bit by hand
expansion hose from thermostat to expansion tank hot and could be squeezed
radiator bleed pipe hot, not blocked
no unusual noise ie tapping/knocking from slipped liner etc
temperature needle stayed dead in middle and did not move
viscious van speed increases with engine revs
throttle housing flow and return hot
no leaks anywhere
not overheating at all
Took her on a gentle run around the local streets - managed to go for approx 3 miles then bugger me she overheated - this is what i found
Expansion cap releasing pressure & water
bottom of radiator cold
bottom of thermostat cold
top of rad hot hot
Since the above, i have had from this forum zzr1200 come round, see for
himself the problem, pressure tested this system (results ok) and suggest a new OEM thermostat and exp cap - in the mean time until i can get one to run the engine with the thermostat wedged in the open position. Drove for 75 miles+ and she did not miss a beat and no overheating.Rad hot all over - obviously circulating throughout car - temp gauge at approx 1/3 of the way across - yippee i thought - problem found - another faulty thermostat!
Tested thermostat in saucepan to confirm operation, fitted OEM thermostat and OEM expansion tank cap and with 3 miles she overheated as before. Top of rad hot bottom cold - what F*&k is going on?
Don't know what to do next nut whatever it is sounds like the same as your problem.
only thing i know is that when i drive the car she overheats, i can only assume that i have a crack in block/head that opens up when driven - is this possible ?
Welcome to the P38 overheating club - i know what you're going through - i have a yr 2000 4.0L petrol and sorry to say suffer the same problem.
This what i have fitted:
Had new head gasket
new o rings on matrix
new water pump
new radiator
new hoses
3 x new thermostats
OEM new expansion vessel cap
checked,double checked,triple checked quadruple checks for air locks - all removed
new viscious fan
Condenser fans do work - ive seen them turning - nothing to do with cooling
No leaks
This is what i did the other day:
Filled radiator from top hose, filled system and bled completely of air.
started and allowed her to warm up
internal heater chucking out hot air (very hot) with fan on full (air con off)
allowed to trick over for 55 mins - all ok
revved to 2500 rpm and kept there for approx 5 mins - done this on a couple of occasions during the aforementioned 55 mins - all ok
water level stayed same throughout test dropping only 1 cm during who time - not due to leak - most likely due to removal of a small amount of air.
top of rad hot - bottom of rad cold
top of thermostat hot - bottom of thermostat cold
heater matrix flow and return hot
top hose pressurised but still could be squeezed a bit by hand
expansion hose from thermostat to expansion tank hot and could be squeezed
radiator bleed pipe hot, not blocked
no unusual noise ie tapping/knocking from slipped liner etc
temperature needle stayed dead in middle and did not move
viscious van speed increases with engine revs
throttle housing flow and return hot
no leaks anywhere
not overheating at all
Took her on a gentle run around the local streets - managed to go for approx 3 miles then bugger me she overheated - this is what i found
Expansion cap releasing pressure & water
bottom of radiator cold
bottom of thermostat cold
top of rad hot hot
Since the above, i have had from this forum zzr1200 come round, see for
himself the problem, pressure tested this system (results ok) and suggest a new OEM thermostat and exp cap - in the mean time until i can get one to run the engine with the thermostat wedged in the open position. Drove for 75 miles+ and she did not miss a beat and no overheating.Rad hot all over - obviously circulating throughout car - temp gauge at approx 1/3 of the way across - yippee i thought - problem found - another faulty thermostat!
Tested thermostat in saucepan to confirm operation, fitted OEM thermostat and OEM expansion tank cap and with 3 miles she overheated as before. Top of rad hot bottom cold - what F*&k is going on?
Don't know what to do next nut whatever it is sounds like the same as your problem.
only thing i know is that when i drive the car she overheats, i can only assume that i have a crack in block/head that opens up when driven - is this possible ?
jt_armstrong
Well-Known Member
Surely the fact that she runs fine with your thermostat modification proves that the block and heads are fine. If you had a crack or a slipped liner this would not just go away. Testing the stat in a saucepan is all fine and good but it is by no means a solid scientific test. The exact temp that it opens and how much it opens is crucial.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Hi,
Welcome to the P38 overheating club - i know what you're going through - i have a yr 2000 4.0L petrol and sorry to say suffer the same problem.
This what i have fitted:
Had new head gasket
new o rings on matrix
new water pump
new radiator
new hoses
3 x new thermostats
OEM new expansion vessel cap
checked,double checked,triple checked quadruple checks for air locks - all removed
new viscious fan
Condenser fans do work - ive seen them turning - nothing to do with cooling
No leaks
This is what i did the other day:
Filled radiator from top hose, filled system and bled completely of air.
started and allowed her to warm up
internal heater chucking out hot air (very hot) with fan on full (air con off)
allowed to trick over for 55 mins - all ok
revved to 2500 rpm and kept there for approx 5 mins - done this on a couple of occasions during the aforementioned 55 mins - all ok
water level stayed same throughout test dropping only 1 cm during who time - not due to leak - most likely due to removal of a small amount of air.
top of rad hot - bottom of rad cold
top of thermostat hot - bottom of thermostat cold
heater matrix flow and return hot
top hose pressurised but still could be squeezed a bit by hand
expansion hose from thermostat to expansion tank hot and could be squeezed
radiator bleed pipe hot, not blocked
no unusual noise ie tapping/knocking from slipped liner etc
temperature needle stayed dead in middle and did not move
viscious van speed increases with engine revs
throttle housing flow and return hot
no leaks anywhere
not overheating at all
Took her on a gentle run around the local streets - managed to go for approx 3 miles then bugger me she overheated - this is what i found
Expansion cap releasing pressure & water
bottom of radiator cold
bottom of thermostat cold
top of rad hot hot
Since the above, i have had from this forum zzr1200 come round, see for
himself the problem, pressure tested this system (results ok) and suggest a new OEM thermostat and exp cap - in the mean time until i can get one to run the engine with the thermostat wedged in the open position. Drove for 75 miles+ and she did not miss a beat and no overheating.Rad hot all over - obviously circulating throughout car - temp gauge at approx 1/3 of the way across - yippee i thought - problem found - another faulty thermostat!
Tested thermostat in saucepan to confirm operation, fitted OEM thermostat and OEM expansion tank cap and with 3 miles she overheated as before. Top of rad hot bottom cold - what F*&k is going on?
Don't know what to do next nut whatever it is sounds like the same as your problem.
only thing i know is that when i drive the car she overheats, i can only assume that i have a crack in block/head that opens up when driven - is this possible ?
Look to see if there is anything in the opening to which the stat fits that could stop it opening, otherwise run without it. Can't see a dropped liner or HGF or it would still overheat without the stat. You have proved the stat is not opening as the RAD doesn't get hot.
Well today i took the thermostat housing off mangled the thermostat so water could pass through took it for a spin and still over heats top hose red hot and rock solid and top of rad red hot. then i felt bottom of rad which is just warm and the pipe before thermostat is warm but all the pipe off top of thermostat are red hot and the thermostat housing itself
Wiganerdan
New Member
The only sure fire way to test for a blocked radiator is to have it professionally flow tested.
Pouring water in one end and it coming out the other doesn't prove a thing. You have two tanks connected by a myriad of tubes forming the core. You can have all but a few of these blocked solid and it will still pass water. This is also the reason why flushing radiators doesn't work. It just passes through the non blocked tubes taking the path of least resistance. When I worked for Bentley we had endless head gasket problems caused by blocked radiators. Electrolytic precipitaion of minerals leached out the block was causing a solid build up in the radiator tubes and making them lose about a third of the flow. Flow testing them every 4 years and recoring/replacing where needed prevented any head gasket problems. Normally a 4 year old rad would be 15 to 20 percent blocked. These had the problem increased by the fact they where Behr Turbulator core radiators where each tube had a spiral wire inside it to make the water spin as it flows thereby increasing the cooling capacity, this unfortunately worked like a wick.
The lack of flow out the jet pipe into the top of the header tank does suggest some degree of blockage or as someone else said, poor performance by the water pump.
Pouring water in one end and it coming out the other doesn't prove a thing. You have two tanks connected by a myriad of tubes forming the core. You can have all but a few of these blocked solid and it will still pass water. This is also the reason why flushing radiators doesn't work. It just passes through the non blocked tubes taking the path of least resistance. When I worked for Bentley we had endless head gasket problems caused by blocked radiators. Electrolytic precipitaion of minerals leached out the block was causing a solid build up in the radiator tubes and making them lose about a third of the flow. Flow testing them every 4 years and recoring/replacing where needed prevented any head gasket problems. Normally a 4 year old rad would be 15 to 20 percent blocked. These had the problem increased by the fact they where Behr Turbulator core radiators where each tube had a spiral wire inside it to make the water spin as it flows thereby increasing the cooling capacity, this unfortunately worked like a wick.
The lack of flow out the jet pipe into the top of the header tank does suggest some degree of blockage or as someone else said, poor performance by the water pump.
