On my D2? It is 2000 my, so may not be sucha problem, but I have no idea!
2000 is 4 years older than mine. So will probably be in a similar condition with pretty bad surface corrosion!? The problem is the VIN on the chassis was marked/ punched not very deep at all.

Apparently its a common issue.
In England its not really an problem because you have the VIN in the engine bay and under the windscreen. Its only a problem if you wish to import to France. And even then I dont think its too serious.
 
2000 is 4 years older than mine. So will probably be in a similar condition with pretty bad surface corrosion!? The problem is the VIN on the chassis was marked/ punched not very deep at all.

Apparently its a common issue.
In England its not really an problem because you have the VIN in the engine bay and under the windscreen. Its only a problem if you wish to import to France. And even then I dont think its too serious.
I had the rear of the chassis really well welded a couple of years back, so not replaced. I have never looked for the chassi number, it is prolly covered in paint.
I have a set of number punches and a mate has a full set of number and letter punches, so I'd prolly just borrow them and re-indent the originals.
With a bit of corrosion on them they would look authentic enough!
 
I had the rear of the chassis really well welded a couple of years back, so not replaced. I have never looked for the chassi number, it is prolly covered in paint.
I have a set of number punches and a mate has a full set of number and letter punches, so I'd prolly just borrow them and re-indent the originals.
With a bit of corrosion on them they would look authentic enough!

If the VIN number is in the same place as mine its to left of the fuel filter on drivers side rear chassis leg. Kind of 8 o'clock from the fuel filter and a bit below in line with bottom of the filter. Mine was not visible at all I got in there with scraper and sand paper and less than half the number is remaining.

One thing the guy in the garage said was he doesnt have the right to punch over the old. Above or below only.
 
If the VIN number is in the same place as mine its to left of the fuel filter on drivers side rear chassis leg. Kind of 8 o'clock from the fuel filter and a bit below in line with bottom of the filter. Mine was not visible at all I got in there with scraper and sand paper and less than half the number is remaining.

One thing the guy in the garage said was he doesnt have the right to punch over the old. Above or below only.
Also the factory VIN is a series of small dots which make up the letters and numbers.
 
If the VIN number is in the same place as mine its to left of the fuel filter on drivers side rear chassis leg. Kind of 8 o'clock from the fuel filter and a bit below in line with bottom of the filter. Mine was not visible at all I got in there with scraper and sand paper and less than half the number is remaining.

One thing the guy in the garage said was he doesnt have the right to punch over the old. Above or below only.
Well, that is a bridge I'll cross when/if It comes to it, meanwhile I may have a peak and see if there is enough left to preserve!!.
thanks for the indication as to where to find it!!
 
Is it hot where you are? We are at 600 metres above sea level and it is currently 27 outside the house and 26 inside, on the ground floor, but we drove to the canal du Midi today in 39 degs.
Phew!
 
Well, that is a bridge I'll cross when/if It comes to it, meanwhile I may have a peak and see if there is enough left to preserve!!.
thanks for the indication as to where to find it!!
Thank you !

I need to prépare mine for a salty winter.
I live at 1000m altitude and they salt 5months of the year. Desperately need to get mine sorted while its dry.

I like the look of the bilt hamber products.

Im undecided but was looking at the following products;

- Korrosol
- Hydrate 80
- Atom-mac
- Dynax s-50 inside the chassis
- Dynax UB coating.

Used in that order.
 
Thank you !

I need to prépare mine for a salty winter.
I live at 1000m altitude and they salt 5months of the year. Desperately need to get mine sorted while its dry.

I like the look of the bilt hamber products.

Im undecided but was looking at the following products;

- Korrosol
- Hydrate 80
- Atom-mac
- Dynax s-50 inside the chassis
- Dynax UB coating.

Used in that order.
People on here are always on about what is the best paint, and of course over here in Frogland it isn't easy to get the same thing.
Message a guy called Datatek he may be able to help as he lives near Poitiers and is a mine of info about this sort of stuff. You'll read his stuff on P38s on the Range Rover part of the forum. I have only ever bought a couple of rust proofing ior treating things over here but they were for metal work like gates and such, so not necessarily any use on car's chassis.
 
Is it hot where you are? We are at 600 metres above sea level and it is currently 27 outside the house and 26 inside, on the ground floor, but we drove to the canal du Midi today in 39 degs.
Phew!
18 outside 27 inside on the 2nd floor of 4 floor house. The gradient is that steep 3rd floor is the garden level and ground level is 2 levels down in a square building.
 
18 outside 27 inside on the 2nd floor of 4 floor house. The gradient is that steep 3rd floor is the garden level and ground level is 2 levels down in a square building.
Wow!!
closest to that I have known is a house I lived in in Bath, where ground floor at the front was the first floor at the back and the garden was so steep, if it rained you slid down it.

So pretty cool at night then!
 
People on here are always on about what is the best paint, and of course over here in Frogland it isn't easy to get the same thing.
Message a guy called Datatek he may be able to help as he lives near Poitiers and is a mine of info about this sort of stuff. You'll read his stuff on P38s on the Range Rover part of the forum. I have only ever bought a couple of rust proofing ior treating things over here but they were for metal work like gates and such, so not necessarily any use on car's chassis.
Il have a read thanks ! The one thing that stands out to me is doing a half arsed job and trapping moisture between a coating and metal. Thats what im worried about. Think you are preserving it but actually speeding up the rot.
 
Il have a read thanks ! The one thing that stands out to me is doing a half arsed job and trapping moisture between a coating and metal. Thats what im worried about. Think you are preserving it but actually speeding up the rot.
You are dead right, which is why it is a job best done in a warm dry spell, although you can speed things up by using hairdryers, hot air guns,infra-red heaters if you have a garage, which I don't, well not tall enough to take a Disco!
 
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