P

Pat31

New Member
I have a 1993 discovery 1 200 Tdi, since I got it the clutch bites just as I release the pedal. I have changed the complete clutch system (everything)
and it still doing the same. Are there different length fork push rods? I dont know if there were any changes to clutch/bell housing/gearbox before I got the car.
Thanks for any replies.
 
Take a peek at the top of the clutch pedal, Iirc there is a concentric adjustment bolt, but it was a long time ago so there is a fair chance I am talking out of my arse!
 
G'day PAT31, yes 2 different sizes.however if you did not change anything else then why should that matter. I don't understand your issue. You are complaining of the clutch bitting immediately when you release...is that not because you put new clutch in and the system is working perfectly. Did you mean when you start to depress the pedal it bites immediately. Is yours a hydraulic clutch...did you bleed it, when you put it back together.
 
PAT31, even if you put a heavy duty clutch in or an 8 spring heavy duty clutch and heavy duty arm and steel thrust bearing and bled the system. Nothing has changed except there new. Maybe you are used to a worn out clutch.
 
I'm just remembering I tried both lengths on mine and they both worked. I'm remembering the difference was how high the pedal started . Both bite immediately as I release. I have a 8 spring clutch from a 130 300tdi in mine. Bites immediately when I release. I used the shorter rod because it's lower to the floor before it starts to make contact therefore easier on my knees. In mine both rods worked
 
BIGrabbit100 said:
G'day PAT31, yes 2 different sizes.however if you did not change anything else then why should that matter. I don't understand your issue. You are complaining of the clutch bitting immediately when you release...is that not because you put new clutch in and the system is working perfectly. Did you mean when you start to depress the pedal it bites immediately. Is yours a hydraulic clutch...did you bleed it, when you put it back together.
Click to expand...
Yes it is hydraulic and it has been bled several times. Just as the pedal is released the clutch bites and sometimes it is hard to change gears. It was like that when the car was bought. I thought by removing the box and checking/replacing the clutch assembly it would fix it. The fork where the push rod sits was distorted so that was replaced aswell.
 
G'day PAT31, all sounds good so far. I can only think of 2 things that might change how it works. Slave cylinder has a spacer shim washer FRC2402. Possibly if it is left out, it could change the amount it pushes the rod. Another item is the pivot ball FTC5218. If it's bent or damaged, the pivot arm may not be pushing enough or something. ROD FTC3912 is for (G) 56A0669086K and ROD FTC5199 is for (G) 56A0669087K. I would not worry about later boxes or bell housing as I believe all the R380's are the same. In the back of the crank there is a brass bush that wares or can get gunk behind. The reason I bring this up is if there is gunk behind possibly the front gearbox shaft locating spigot could be pushing back and some how the box overall is spaced backwards from the motor or bell housing...it's only an idea.
 
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