[Mark Piercy]

I tried to pull the eas delay timer and the casing came off in my hand leaving the relay motherboard in place . Is there a clip you have to push?

It does that

 

[pwood999]

No clip but the contacts are tight. If you are parked in a safe place, propping the upper tailgate open a few millimetres will have the same effect as removing the relay.

+1 on try the tailgate trick. If where you park makes that a bad idea, you could take Fuse 44 out, which has the same effect as removing the relay.

 

[LR-hobbs]

+1^^^^ The pipes run along the top of the chassis left side, very close to the exhaust..
Remove the inlet filter from the compressor to prove it's sucking by applying you finger to the inlet.

My exhaust is ****ed , previous owner had one of those cheap eBay back box deletes , it doesn't seal at all and doesn't join up to my center box like a half inch gap in the join.

 

[LR-hobbs]

+1^^^^ The pipes run along the top of the chassis left side, very close to the exhaust..
Remove the inlet filter from the compressor to prove it's sucking by applying you finger to the inlet.

So the air line travel passenger side down towards the rear and across past the boot floor to the other air bag?

If so the heat shield that sits Infront of the boot floor has rusted loose and is hanging on by a thread.

And that's extremely close to where my back box is blowing.

 

[Datatek]

My exhaust is ****ed , previous owner had one of those cheap eBay back box deletes , it doesn't seal at all and doesn't join up to my center box like a half inch gap in the join.

Melted pipes are likely. buy yourself a length of pipe and run temporary feeds to the rear bags.

 

[LR-hobbs]

Melted pipes are likely. buy yourself a length of pipe and run temporary feeds to the rear bags.

I had a quick look at the lines around the exhaust and nothing seems to be melted, might have to get the car in ramps as I've got next to no wiggle room.

I also pulled fuse 44 and it dropped equally at the rear by 2 inches in less than an hour, the fronts didn't drop at all .

That coupled with the vibration from my compressor is giving me a right head ache.

 

[Datatek]

I had a quick look at the lines around the exhaust and nothing seems to be melted, might have to get the car in ramps as I've got next to no wiggle room.

I also pulled fuse 44 and it dropped equally at the rear by 2 inches in less than an hour, the fronts didn't drop at all .

That coupled with the vibration from my compressor is giving me a right head ache.

Hard to see pin hole leaks in melted pipes.

 

[pwood999]

The rear airlines are much harder to get into the airbags than the fronts. Maybe they are simply not fully seated ?

 

[Datatek]

The rear airlines are much harder to get into the airbags than the fronts. Maybe they are simply not fully seated ?

Plus there is a collar molded into the pipe to aid insertion, if the pipe has been cut back, the collar will prevent full insertion.

 

[LR-hobbs]

Plus there is a collar molded into the pipe to aid insertion, if the pipe has been cut back, the collar will prevent full insertion.

I would say best bet it's make some air lines up, if it goes down after that then , I have no clue.

 

[LR-hobbs]

Plus there is a collar molded into the pipe to aid insertion, if the pipe has been cut back, the collar will prevent full insertion.

We fitted a set of Schrader valves on to the rear air bag lines that go into the valve block aired them up to 60psi and over the course of 1 hour , it hasn't dropped , which it would of before .

Would the non return valves in the valve block have anything to do with this?

 

[Datatek]

We fitted a set of Schrader valves on to the rear air bag lines that go into the valve block aired them up to 60psi and over the course of 1 hour , it hasn't dropped , which it would of before .

Would the non return valves in the valve block have anything to do with this?

If it stays up on schrader valves, then the problem is in the valve block. Not likely to be the NRV's as they are common to front and rear so it will be the solenoid valves. No chance you got the coils swapped when you refurbished the block I suppose.

 

[LR-hobbs]

If it stays up on schrader valves, then the problem is in the valve block. Not likely to be the NRV's as they are common to front and rear so it will be the solenoid valves. No chance you got the coils swapped when you refurbished the block I suppose.

no I did them one by one, so what ever I took off went back on to the one it came from.

As far as I'm aware the solenoids are interchangeable, is the best bet to buy however many there is an just replace them all?

 

[Datatek]

no I did them one by one, so what ever I took off went back on to the one it came from.

As far as I'm aware the solenoids are interchangeable, is the best bet to buy however many there is an just replace them all?

Why would you be thinking of replacing the solenoids? If leaking it will only be the O rings. Are you talking about the coils or the actual valves?

 

[pwood999]

Most likely it's one of the two o-rings on the bottom of the valve, or the thin o-ring around the plunger body.

i.e. one of these three :

 

[LR-hobbs]

Most likely it's one of the two o-rings on the bottom of the valve, or the thin o-ring around the plunger body.

i.e. one of these three :

View attachment 348491

I did replace those when I replaced all the valve block o rings.

Maybe it's worth re doing them all.

 

[LR-hobbs]

Most likely it's one of the two o-rings on the bottom of the valve, or the thin o-ring around the plunger body.

i.e. one of these three :

View attachment 348491

The o ring that is on the metal stem part does that go above or below that little lip in the metal , I may have put them in the wrong place.

 

[pwood999]

They should sit on the slightly larger section of the tube, resting against the flange. Then make sure they seat into the recess in the valve body top half.

Stem should seat like this (not my fingers. They are PaulP38's)