Means to an endYou like your excel don't you
Ask them if they would do a "MOT Pre-Check".
For the std MOT fee, my local guy goes through the MOT process without logging onto the computer system. Then if he's happy it's effectively a pass, I have a cuppa for 45mins while he does the computer bit & prints the sheet. If there's any issue, I fix them & return a few days later. I usually take the car a week or two before the expiry, to allow time for repairs.
I use a company that only do MOTs, their workshop is spotless, has an automated testing lane so every single time the test is the same rather than having an ape swinging on a pry bar etc. The tester just says "Pass or Fail, makes no difference to me". It's the polar opposite to most places as I've heard customers get shirty with him because he doesn't know where they should go to get their cars repaired.
You can see it's not a place where cars get worked on. He is annoyingly strict; that's a downside with an old Range Rover sometimes
all well and good, but a lot is down to opinion (and subsequently experience) of the tester.. one mans advisory is another mans fail. tolerances in older cars arent the same as modern cars.
if you've only ever seen modern, you'll fail an old car thats perfectly good
My guy also doesn't do repairs, just MOT's. The bay has those jiggle plates for the front wheels, whcih are brilliant for finding loose joints. Easy to see from the pit (no 4-post lift required).
Also he uses a Tapley meter to do the P38 brake test properly.
Also he uses a Tapley meter to do the P38 brake test properly.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Looks a bit like the French one I use except they have a pit instead of a lift.I use a company that only do MOTs, their workshop is spotless, has an automated testing lane so every single time the test is the same rather than having an ape swinging on a pry bar etc. The tester just says "Pass or Fail, makes no difference to me". It's the polar opposite to most places as I've heard customers get shirty with him because he doesn't know where they should go to get their cars repaired.
You can see it's not a place where cars get worked on. He is annoyingly strict; that's a downside with an old Range Rover sometimes
View attachment 346637
Datatek
Well-Known Member
No Tapley meter anymore here, double rollers instead.
Adjustable for vehicle length I presume ??
Datatek
Well-Known Member
The secondary rollers are just moveable units put first under the rear, then moved for the fronts. I think from memory there are 8 rollers of about 50mm diameter mounted in a S/S frame. They are quite heavy to move as I have done the moving a couple of times.
hef19898
Well-Known Member
Same over here, with old cars you NEED, I cannot emphasize that enough, a testing station that is used to old and classic cars. And that testing needs to be pragmatic about things, there some specialzed of sorts in classics that could as well serve as concours judges.
Mine is very decent, luckily. Speeking of which, my mechanic can do basically everything in Septber, meaning I need to buy all parts, bits and pieces in August. That'll hurt a bit. And finish to put everything back in, including the rear diff in the first week after vacation to pass TÜV by the first weekend of September.
Exactly Tony and his son used to specialise in working and making road worthy cars from the 60 and 70's, so have a good knowledge and tolerance of the older vehicle.
Grrrrrr
Technician, Bodgit & Scarper Ltd
One of my old neighbours built one if them years ago. Now lives on the Isle of Arran. No idea if he still has the car.
Grrrrrr
Technician, Bodgit & Scarper Ltd
There's a guy in (Sheffield) called Sherwin who is straight but I think he's probably retired. I'll see what I can find out
Appreciated
Update (sort of) on the front end knock.
It's got worse now but i still can't find it! I can make the noise with engine off by rocking the steering wheel.
All the ball joints on both sides look tight and don't move. The bushes all seem fine.
Opened the bonnet and it sounds like it's coming from underneath, not the strut bearing.
What's left steering rack? Do they knock?
I'm getting a significant vibration when the steering wheel is turned to the left (no hands on the wheel so no pressure on the pump) it's fine turned to the right. At first i thought it was ABS activating but it does it stationary
It's got worse now but i still can't find it! I can make the noise with engine off by rocking the steering wheel.
All the ball joints on both sides look tight and don't move. The bushes all seem fine.
Opened the bonnet and it sounds like it's coming from underneath, not the strut bearing.
What's left steering rack? Do they knock?
I'm getting a significant vibration when the steering wheel is turned to the left (no hands on the wheel so no pressure on the pump) it's fine turned to the right. At first i thought it was ABS activating but it does it stationary
You have your outer ball joints and the inner bar with a ball joint on the end. As you know but the rack itself can develop play internally and I hope that isn't the case.
What is the power steering fluid like?
Inner bar?
There's 3 Ball joints on each wheel, control arm, tie rod and steering rod, all 3 seem good.
The oil doesn't seem too bad? It's at the level
Yip, the outer track rod end, the inner track rod end. A longish bar with a ball joint fitting that screws into the rack end. 
