I’ve had a look at the chassis cause been doing a bit of sweeping of glass etc. The rear is/will be fbar’d, all the coating has burned off from where the floor arches up for rear seats, body undercoating from there backwards is also burnt away. From the lower half forwards, chassis and body the coating is intact.. inside the landy the floor from rear seats forward is ok and not burn the paint off. Same with doors, besides the rear 2 are half scorched outside, fronts have just the door cards, glass and anything flammable gone. The driver door still locks though and handle etc work fine.. O_O.

I wouldn’t sell the chassis tbh, rear will rot so fast now but front may not or may be slower. Rear axle paint is all burnt but axle structurally looks fine, same with brake calipers etc all coating burnt but looks ok, i doubt I would trust the rear calipers now though.. maybe rebuild them and they’ll be ok. shocks at rear, fbar but i needed to replace them soon anyway haha, all the bushes were cheap ebay ones just to get through MOT and see how long I can drag them out for in all honesty, most money was spent on brakes and engine parts/steering etc. I think the most heat was all contained at the rear inside and moved to front seats etc but stayed near roof cause drivers carpet isn’t burnt but only were some melted seat dropped on it and steering wheel.

What you’ve shared about that long range thing stanley has got me thinking, it could really be changed to like a tray back or pickup. I need to get the body off to investigate more but need a tyre to move it forward to do so.

Would it be too difficult to rip the dash out and wire pods in and get it start like that, i’m thinking wiring wise would it be a pain in the butt to do? hmm…
anything to do with wiring ECM BCM etc is going to be a right pain.

As for the chassis, there must be ways of testing it to see if it has been seriously damaged. Testing it for twist resistance is just one thing
see this.

If welding it makes it far hotter than a fire would it ought to be OK.
BUT as it'll have lost its galvanised protection, maybe at least to an extent, it needs to be either regalvanised or painted with a zinc rich paint.
 
anything to do with wiring ECM BCM etc is going to be a right pain.

As for the chassis, there must be ways of testing it to see if it has been seriously damaged. Testing it for twist resistance is just one thing
see this.

If welding it makes it far hotter than a fire would it ought to be OK.
BUT as it'll have lost its galvanised protection, maybe at least to an extent, it needs to be either regalvanised or painted with a zinc rich paint.
To m ove it, get a secondhand spare tyre.
 
anything to do with wiring ECM BCM etc is going to be a right pain.

As for the chassis, there must be ways of testing it to see if it has been seriously damaged. Testing it for twist resistance is just one thing
see this.

If welding it makes it far hotter than a fire would it ought to be OK.
BUT as it'll have lost its galvanised protection, maybe at least to an extent, it needs to be either regalvanised or painted with a zinc rich paint.
Honestly I don’t think it’s done anything to the chassis heat wise as all copper cables are intact, even the abs sensor cable at the site of the fire start, the aluminium rear quarters are melted but that’s only 650c, if copper cables are all intact even the thinnest ones then it hasn’t reach exceedingly hot tbh. The dashboard is all melted but i don’t know if all the cabling is behind, a lot in the footwells looks ok so if there was any chance of using the landy still then I gotta hope the cabling to all ECUS is untouched or at the very least 50% is and I can snip and patch in new wire. If that was possible then really a new dash cluster and work something for the ignition. All this is up in the air anyway until I can actually get behind dash and check state of all the wiring.

Also in a previous post I said the slabs was fubar, I was wrong, I mean SLS.. the one in the center cluster with the auto lever. It actually is not burnt, at all and looks ok but the wiring isn’t great but has enough that new wire could be spliced in.

This is all quite interesting too be honest, I was really gutted when first writing the post but now I’m quite intrigued if I actually do have enough system left to salvage and reuse it. The roof can always have new steels welded in so..( just looked the long ranger thing you posted stanley has a roof part). that’s not the deal breaker here tbh, wiring and systems is..
 
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