[Nuffield3]

Hello
I wonder if anyone could help .
Just changing the trailer lighting socket on my series 3 and need a guide regarding identifying the original wiring to correspond with the new socket.
Any help would be much appreciated

 

[marjon]

Welcome first .

What did you have, and did it work?
What are you replacing it with?

Follow a guide found freely on the internet as for the socket wiring. The car side could be anything as I don’t think it would have a dedicated wiring harness, so they would be connected “piggybacking “ off the rear lights possibly using a spare bullet hole or the devils blue connector.
So pics may help with what you have.

J

 

[Nuffield3]

Welcome first .

What did you have, and did it work?
What are you replacing it with?

Follow a guide found freely on the internet as for the socket wiring. The car side could be anything as I don’t think it would have a dedicated wiring harness, so they would be connected “piggybacking “ off the rear lights possibly using a spare bullet hole or the devils blue connector.
So pics may help with what you have.

J

Thanks for the reply
I'm replacing like for like.
But instead of the normal colours , I have 3 greens with coloured traces , a red a black and a slightly thicker brown wire

 

[marjon]

If it worked right before then just change like for like in the new socket.
Or you could trace the wires back to the origin ( probably 1 of the back light areas)

J

 

[tottot]

And as @marjon says do not use those blue "scotch block" connectors. There are other similar products today that work the same way today by squeezing the wire between two thin metal bits while splitting the sheath, contact area is very small and while they work to start with it only takes a bit of corrosion and no workie.
I have used standard 230v chock block connectors for years, cover with a smear of Vaseline and they will often undo years later if needed.

 

[Wildefalcon]

Solder heat shrink joints are okay, but a new bullet connector and block is most authentic.