[ldrego]

Hi all. I am working on the shuttle valve switch and have got stuck on removing the 3 screws under the abs module. Could anyone shed any light on how i get them out at all. I have removed the 3 bolts at the side of the unit however am I supposed to lever the unit out and would this not produce stree on te brake lines?
Any help welcome.

 

[jamesmartin]

try this
you can raise the unit enough

 

[ldrego]

Hi James. Is it just meant to be a photo?

 

[jamesmartin]

Hi James. Is it just meant to be a photo?

might work now

 

[brian47]

It seems like everything is in threes with this job.

Three anti-vibration mounting studs for the ABS modulator.

Then there's the three clips holding the three pipes going downwards from the ABS modulator. Remove them all to gain yourself a bit more wiggle room.

Lift the ABS modulator carefully so as not to put undue strain on the pipework. You won't be able to lift it far enough to turn the thing upside down, so don't even try, but it should lift clear enough to largely work by feel. Talking of threes, it might be helpful here to have someone to hold the modulator unit; a third hand!

The Shuttle Valve Switch plate is held in place by three Allen key headed bolts, you should get an idea of the proper size with the three replacement bolts which came with the replacement plate. They shouldn't be done up too tight, but age might have taken its toll, although they are stainless steel so there shouldn't be a corrosion problem. I found it easier with an Allen key on a small socket set wrench rather than a normal Allen key.

Once those bolts have been removed the plate should be able to be pulled out with nothing more than hand pressure. The connector might need a little bit more persuading.

 

[ldrego]

?Thanks James. I just have one more bolt to remove. Brian 47 I loved your commentary right up to the point you mentioned the replacement plate. What replacement plate? I thought you could use the old one after modifying it.

 

[brian47]

Yes, you can use the old plate, provided that it works as shown in the video, and you modify it as has already been said in other posts.

Without the plate, the best thing to do is to blag a handbag mirror from swmbo. You should then be able to see the Allen key bolts which you need to remove.

 

[ldrego]

Great I have the switch out. Now I need to work on the wiring. Thanks guys.

 

[ldrego]

Hi all. It all seems to be working well. No corrosion on the wires and the resistance alters when either button is depressed. Is it ok just to clean it and put it back or should i rewire it?

 

[jamesmartin]

if its working its working and not your problem

 

[ldrego]

if its working its working and not your problem

Hmmm. That's a dog. i got the shuttle valve error on the lynx diagnstic but it is not all the time. Could it be an intermittent fault or should I be looking for other things altogether?

 

[jamesmartin]

read this or you could get a good used modulator
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=i&r...BipDcyYPeLEBFuQreQYyAmBw&ust=1445808264370238

 

[brian47]

Hi all. It all seems to be working well. No corrosion on the wires and the resistance alters when either button is depressed. Is it ok just to clean it and put it back or should i rewire it?

As has been said before, get the wiring mod done, especially since you now have the switch plate out. Nine times out of ten the problem is with the plug inside the ABS modulator, by doing the wiring mod you'll be by-passing the problem plug.
Get it done and then put the switch back in place. Re-assemble everything and connect the wiring mod as directed in any of the notes you've seen.
Restart the vehicle then let us know how it goes.

 

[AceB]

try this
you can raise the unit enough

I watched this last night and now this morning I'm getting the message its been removed? Shame because it showed clearly just how high you can lift up the modulator on the brake lines, a lot higher than I dared flex mine.

 

[ldrego]

James you are a legend. That video was brilliant. Real shame it has been removed.
I would say that it is key to ensure that you move the unit for each bolt and try to use a small Allan key to try and get maximum rotations. You can get a good 3 inches of clearance.
Bryan I used a cable splicer on the cables and then soldered the new cables into the splice. Used little grips to hold everything in place whilst soldering to ensure I didn't rush it and end up with a cold solder. After that I opted to use a glue gun to encapsulate the solder in a flexible clear bubble so that the solder will not fracture with time. This will help to increase the longevity of the connection. I will try and post a photo up to show. Finally test the connections to make sure they work before finishing.

 

[brian47]

If you look at the information on this put up by Sierrafery, you'll see that there's no need for the little two pin socket, it can just be cut out and the two wires of the modification brought out through a hole. This will reduce the risk of getting the wiring wrong on the outside of the ABS block.
If you do it that way, by removing the socket altogether then it won't matter which wire goes to earth and which goes to the yellow green wire in the existing loom.

If that makes sense to you.

 

[ldrego]

[GALLERY=][/GALLERY]

I watched this last night and now this morning I'm getting the message its been removed? Shame because it showed clearly just how high you can lift up the modulator on the brake lines, a lot higher than I dared flex mine.

If you look at the information on this put up by Sierrafery, you'll see that there's no need for the little two pin socket, it can just be cut out and the two wires of the modification brought out through a hole. This will reduce the risk of getting the wiring wrong on the outside of the ABS block.
If you do it that way, by removing the socket altogether then it won't matter which wire goes to earth and which goes to the yellow green wire in the existing loom.

If that makes sense to you.

Kind off. but if you leave the socket in place then it allows for two identical but seperate circuits or is this a problem? I would have been inclined to have kept both the circuits.

 

[ldrego]

i see exactly what you mean. Just did some tests with the meter.

 

[ldrego]

I may fall down on this one ut I decided on holding onto the original connector as it seemed to be working and wired up a second circuit as described. The wire closest to the front of the car is the one that I wired to the green and yellow wire and the one closest to the window I earthed. Everything seems to be working well at the moment. Thanks everyone for the help. Win or lose, it has been a fun few hours.

 

[ldrego]

This is another really useful link I found

http://www.handyhowie.co.uk/handyhowie/Disco_ABS_Fault.html