H

harrison_steve

Member
Hello fellow LR owners,
been a while since I required any help but yesterday lost all instruments and indicators and other switches not working, apart from that drives OK.
Checked fuses all ok, replaced the internal fuse box as that was cause of a previous fault, no difference, swapped a few relays around to see if fault moved no joy
started checking earths and connections whilst key in pos 1, everything
came good, went to start and lost the lot again, seems that in pos 1 wait about 30 seconds there is a click and all instruments good, turn key off or to
pos 2 and loose it all again.
So I'm assuming instruments, switches etc.. are all OK but something causing a delay for instruments to come on and remain on?
Any help is greatly appreciated.
regards
Steve
 
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the engine is running and starting ok?... if yes check again and specify EXACTLY what doesnt work then... see interior lights, radio, clock, wipers, washers, windows, cigar lighter, accessory socket, heated seats, screens, everything electric...it's VERY important to know which circuits are affected to be able to reduce the odds...then we'll speak, though at first sight seems a problem at the engine bay fusebox rather than interior.
 
Hello Sierrafery,
Thank you for taking an interest.
I've checked whats working and what isn't as follows
Working whilst in fault

Lights front and rear
Air con
clock
cruise control
rear washer
door mirrors
Horn
Windscreen wipers and wash

Not working in fault
No instruments at all
Indicators
hazards
Height adj button
Hill DC
Heated RW
Rear wiper
Fogs front and rear
CDL button on dash

Maybe a relay that should have multi feeds is only getting one?
Hope this helps

kind regards
Steve
 
Hi Steve, just to make sure, for those you say "not working" do you mean completely dead or just not illuminated?...then i'll check the diagram and see what comes up... i can tell you where to check after that but you need RAVE for to be able to see the connector views as there might be more places to check and it's hard for me to copy and upload all the needed images..., if you dont have RAVE download one and we'll speak then
 
sierrafery said:
Hi Steve, just to make sure, for those you say "not working" do you mean completely dead or just not illuminated?...then i'll check the diagram and see what comes up... i can tell you where to check after that but you need RAVE for to be able to see the connector views as there might be more places to check and it's hard for me to copy and upload all the needed images..., if you dont have RAVE download one and we'll speak then
Click to expand...

Hi Sierrafery,

just did some more testing, removing the relay for the fuel pump in the engine bay elimiates all problems, everything runs as it should in all key positions
until fuel starvation kicks in, I wonder if the fuel pump is loading down the circuit ? with the relay in and in fault condition I tried priming the pump but did not hear it run.
This narrows things down quite a bit any ideas?
regards
Steve
 
harrison_steve said:
Hi Sierrafery,

just did some more testing, removing the relay for the fuel pump in the engine bay elimiates all problems, everything runs as it should in all key positions
until fuel starvation kicks in, I wonder if the fuel pump is loading down the circuit ? with the relay in and in fault condition I tried priming the pump but did not hear it run.
This narrows things down quite a bit any ideas?
regards
Steve
Click to expand...

:confused:strange, though i had a feeling that's why i said first time that it's something from the engine bay fusebox area... remove relay R3(headlamp wash) and put it instead R1(pump), dont swap them cos if the coil is the problem it might disturb other systems...if it's ok this way buy a new relay...but i have some doubts here...if no joy answer to my previous questions and i'll think and come back later tonight

if the relay change doesnt help remove the pump relay's fuse(F10 engine bay) too and leave the relay in place and see if there's any change or not

to rule out the pump drain you must unplug the pump and try so but that's not easy unless you cut the carpet around the pump to gain access to it... if you use a cutter when it's almost unnoticeable after that
 
sierrafery said:
Hi Steve, just to make sure, for those you say "not working" do you mean completely dead or just not illuminated?...then i'll check the diagram and see what comes up... i can tell you where to check after that but you need RAVE for to be able to see the connector views as there might be more places to check and it's hard for me to copy and upload all the needed images..., if you dont have RAVE download one and we'll speak then
Click to expand...

Hello again,

just replaced relay and removed F10 in engine bay (fuel pump) everything
is working, seems like the fuel pump I replaced in April 14 that was a replacement for one that failed in Oct 12 has let me down again :mad2:
I do have some drawings to work from Sierrafery, where do you get the RAVE info from?
regards
Steve
 
download, save in computer, unpack and make shortcut with rave.exe on desctop then you'll have it within reach... disc 1 from here land rover rave technical system , though if you get to the pump unplug it and make a test so before you remove it to rule out a wiring issue
 
sierrafery said:
:confused:strange, though i had a feeling that's why i said first time that it's something from the engine bay fusebox area... remove relay R3(headlamp wash) and put it instead R1(pump), dont swap them cos if the coil is the problem it might disturb other systems...if it's ok this way buy a new relay...but i have some doubts here...if no joy answer to my previous questions and i'll think and come back later tonight

if the relay change doesnt help remove the pump relay's fuse(F10 engine bay) too and leave the relay in place and see if there's any change or not

to rule out the pump drain you must unplug the pump and try so but that's not easy unless you cut the carpet around the pump to gain access to it... if you use a cutter when it's almost unnoticeable after that
Click to expand...

Hello Sierra Ferry,
I removed the old pump today, one of the terminals had melted, also the power cable white/purple and a white/black cable were melted together.
I put the new pump in thinking that would be it.
I replaced fuse and relay engine started but still having problems with the display, the ABS light and right indicator just pulse on/off.
I had a spare passenger fuse box thinking that something could be fried on it, now the enginge won't crank over.
I was wondering if you had any idea which component is damaged due to those wires being shorted together?
regards
Steve
 
I hope you downloade RAVE, so go to Electrical library - connector views and check C0578(on the back of the engine bay fusebox) especially near pin 4 which is the wire going to the fuel pump and it's certain it was overloaded, this connector has more other wires in it near pin 4 which are going to interior fusebox/IDM so here is where to start... also due to that extreme load(which i'm stumped that didnt blow the fuse) the fusebox itself may have some internal damage and then it disturbs many circuits like the feed to BCU cos that's involved mostly in that no crank - warning lamp flickering thing
 
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aaaaa!!!!...what i forgot to mention is that if you swap the interior fusebox you must put ignition on ll and let it so 5 minutes as the IDM to regain communication with the BCU or the immobiliser might make tricks
 
sierrafery said:
I hope you downloade RAVE, so go to Electrical library - connector views and check C0578(on the back of the engine bay fusebox) especially near pin 4 which is the wire going to the fuel pump and it's certain it was overloaded, this connector has more other wires in it near pin 4 which are going to interior fusebox/IDM so here is where to start... also due to that extreme load(which i'm stumped that didnt blow the fuse) the fusebox itself may have someinternal damage and then it disturbs many circuits like the feed to BCU cos that's involved mostly in that no crank - warning lamp flickering thing
Click to expand...

I'm burnt out with it today and it's quite dark, so i'll start fresh tomorrow,
I am also stumped why it did not blow a fuse?
Tomorrow I will swap back the IDM box see if the engine will start, prior to that I'll pull out the engine bay fuse box.
Is there any way the ECM or BCU or instrument binnacle is damaged by a power feed going up the other wire?
regards
Steve
 
sierrafery said:
aaaaa!!!!...what i forgot to mention is that if you swap the interior fusebox you must put ignition on ll and let it so 5 minutes as the IDM to regain communication with the BCU or the immobiliser might make tricks
Click to expand...

Hi,
your'e right with that, but I think with so many faults on the system it's not doing it's handshakes with the BCU and ECU ?
I've ordered an enginge bay fuse box off ebay £20 so it'll nice to have another component to swap out as part of the elimation process.
I'm still concerned that the instument binnacle has took a hit too.
regards
Steve
 
normally there's no reason to be a problem with backfeeds cos all the wires from the engine bay fusebox are positive toward the other systems/interior fusebox, what i think is that due to the overload some circuits are interrupted between the engine bay and IDM, BCU or ECM, or burnt plug which doesnt make contact or fusebox internal circuit...that engine bay fusebox is built in thin metal layers isolated between them and there might be some partial short to earth before a fuse which creates other voltage drop or something... it was a good move to get a replacement fusbox anyway
 
Hi Mate,
I took the fuse box apart, it was perfect not a thing wrong with it, I've got an ex LR tech
coming to put a diagnostic on it, but I've also been told that you cannot use used parts as
the other components won't accept it?
Does anyone have experience of chaning a BCU with a used part?
 
i keep wondering how much bollox some LR "specialists" can tell...it's not the first enormity i hear from a so called specialist

the used BCU as long as it's not immobilised is completely programmable to any D2... only dedicated tester is needed(nanocom, hawkeye, lynx, etc)... i programmed a few for friends without problems
 
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