Jason2
Well-Known Member
GRUNT!
Still on with this bloody rumbling noise at speed.Apparently whilst reversing the rear diff took a knock recently (tyre into wall,blow out) and the diff does'nt look in line with rear prop (as appose to my disco anyway) see attached photo.
Can anyone please tell me if there is any adjustment on the rear diff to line it up straight with prop and how or at least comfirm that this could be the fault of the problem putting excessive load on transfer box.
The rear diff nose bearing has a lot of play in it,can these be changed easily???
Cheers in advance
Jason
Still on with this bloody rumbling noise at speed.Apparently whilst reversing the rear diff took a knock recently (tyre into wall,blow out) and the diff does'nt look in line with rear prop (as appose to my disco anyway) see attached photo.
Can anyone please tell me if there is any adjustment on the rear diff to line it up straight with prop and how or at least comfirm that this could be the fault of the problem putting excessive load on transfer box.
The rear diff nose bearing has a lot of play in it,can these be changed easily???
Cheers in advance
Jason
Attachments
Looks ok to me. That's why that silly rubber thing is there, to take care of the bend and any movement in the axle while you're driving along. A pic of another 300tdi would confirm it though...
Check the condition of that rubber thing, sometimes they cause vibrations. It's a crap design apparently, a backwards step from the 200 which has a proper UJ there.
Check the condition of that rubber thing, sometimes they cause vibrations. It's a crap design apparently, a backwards step from the 200 which has a proper UJ there.
GRUNT
Well-Known Member
Something definitely looks out of kilter there. I've not done an axle diff so can't really comment on how easy they are to recon, though if your lucky and its just a collapsed bearing then it should be easy enough. Also I'm not sure about the axle set up on a Disco the 90 has tie rods and things to hold the axle in place a disco will have similar but not sure what.
Jason2
Well-Known Member
Thanks all the same Grunt
I've spent all morning under the bloody thing trying to suss it out, you do agree that is not in line with prop shaft and should be?
My thought is then that the rear flange diff bearing jobby is knackered (may be due to prop angle) which is sending vibration up to Transfer box???
So if there is some kind Gentleman out there who could let me know if this bearing can be changed with out stripping the whole diff (and how) I would be much obliged
I've spent all morning under the bloody thing trying to suss it out, you do agree that is not in line with prop shaft and should be?
My thought is then that the rear flange diff bearing jobby is knackered (may be due to prop angle) which is sending vibration up to Transfer box???
So if there is some kind Gentleman out there who could let me know if this bearing can be changed with out stripping the whole diff (and how) I would be much obliged
Just been under mine and the prop is running straight as your own one does. Has the top "A" frame ball joint been replaced/bent etc. Or the other thing to check is the gearbox mountings in relation to how your's look. Should be no play in the front pinion bearing so that could be the problem of noise and could have been accelerated by the prop angle.
Jason2
Well-Known Member
Thanks stig
Doing my head in
I can't suss out what determines the position of the diff in relation to the prop shaft????
Tried gently jacking at nose end to see if it will line up-wont budge
Already thought that it might be engine,gearbox mounts effecting prop angle but keep coming back to the diff as on mine its at a slight angle and on his it's parallel with the ground
Every things well rusty up in the "a frame region",thought that ball job thing might be seized but rubber gaitors intact and I dont realy know how to check with out having it in bit's???
with the diff running parallel to the ground it is axle location, if the top "A" frame looks undisturbed it can only be the length of the 2 radius arms that are incorrect ie too long, either by too big rubber bushes fitted or the rods are the wrong length check your for the lenghts or has even the axle had the brackets re welded on at some time?
Jason2
Well-Known Member
Cheers Stig
I have since found out that the rear diff flange/pinion bearings is a "diff strip down"
No welding has been done on it,radius arm rubber bushes look original and to spice things up a tad another friend has just sent me a pm to say that his Disco Diff is not in line with his rear prop either
Perseverance is the same old pleasure ground-I'm off for a drink
I have since found out that the rear diff flange/pinion bearings is a "diff strip down"
No welding has been done on it,radius arm rubber bushes look original and to spice things up a tad another friend has just sent me a pm to say that his Disco Diff is not in line with his rear prop either
Perseverance is the same old pleasure ground-I'm off for a drink
Go for the rear prop UJs first.
You know they are going to die soon anyway, so replace them.
The noise and vibration is ROAD SPEED related, not engine speed, and starts at a certain speed when a bit of free play suddenly allows something to go way out of balance, and oscillate. Above a certain speed, it stops again.
This is a perfect description of the symptoms of Prop-Shaft UJ failure.
TRY NOT TO DRIVE AT THE VIBRATION PERIOD SPEED as serious damage could occur very quickly!
If you want to test it, drive with the rear propshaft removed, but to get drive to the front axle you MUST lock the centre diff. Otherwise the drive flange to the rear shaft will spin at twice the speed, and the front shaft won't drive at all. When driving with one shaft removed, remember that the one driving axle is taking TWICE the usual torque, so take it easy!
CharlesY
You know they are going to die soon anyway, so replace them.
The noise and vibration is ROAD SPEED related, not engine speed, and starts at a certain speed when a bit of free play suddenly allows something to go way out of balance, and oscillate. Above a certain speed, it stops again.
This is a perfect description of the symptoms of Prop-Shaft UJ failure.
TRY NOT TO DRIVE AT THE VIBRATION PERIOD SPEED as serious damage could occur very quickly!
If you want to test it, drive with the rear propshaft removed, but to get drive to the front axle you MUST lock the centre diff. Otherwise the drive flange to the rear shaft will spin at twice the speed, and the front shaft won't drive at all. When driving with one shaft removed, remember that the one driving axle is taking TWICE the usual torque, so take it easy!
CharlesY
RAZ8550TDI
New Member
personally i would say try driving at 55 upwards in a few different gears as it will determain if its rev related, if your still getting the noise/vibration at the same speed and the tone/vibration doesnt change when going through the gears then i would go strait to a diff i.e the front one as you say you can hear the noise/vibration centre/forward of the cab. also have you tried dipping the clutch at the speed in question to rule the main gearbox out?
Jason2
Well-Known Member
Happy days are here again tra la lar,tra la lar!!!!!! Blurrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrhhhh
Fully serviced front & rear props with new uj's NO BETTER, and the noise is now accompanied by severe vibration, tried changing upper a frame ball joint but couldn't with out losing another day of our lives, checked old one though which isn't seized.
Practically convinced that the rear diff is out of line with rear prop,if you measure from the wheel centre to front of wheel arch there is at least a cm difference.
Think that the vibrations are due to old prop Uj's absorbing some of the rear diff misalignment.
The start of the original noise does coincide with a parking dispute between the right rear wheel and a low wall!!
How does one go about checking/re-aligning a rear diff?? Anyone?
Jason
Jason2
Well-Known Member
Cheers charles
Are we talking checking tracking ect here with state of the art laser do dar or is there a rack of the eye, twist of the gob method to see that it's in the right parish?
If you look back at last pics of diff there's summet not right
Cheers
Jason
Well, any way you can do it VERY accurately.
The great thing about a back axle is that the wheels have NO camber or castor or funny angles about them - they run dead parallel - or they should!
I think good track gauges would tell you, but meantime jack the bigger up and have a feel at that hub and bearings.
You know SOMETHING isn't good, so all we need to do is find it.
THAT hub got a clout, you said, so look there first.
Maybe you just buckled a wheel? You can do that to steels or alloys without any obvious sign. Jack it up and spin it ......
CharlesY
The great thing about a back axle is that the wheels have NO camber or castor or funny angles about them - they run dead parallel - or they should!
I think good track gauges would tell you, but meantime jack the bigger up and have a feel at that hub and bearings.
You know SOMETHING isn't good, so all we need to do is find it.
THAT hub got a clout, you said, so look there first.
Maybe you just buckled a wheel? You can do that to steels or alloys without any obvious sign. Jack it up and spin it ......
CharlesY
Jason2
Well-Known Member
Wow!!!!!! Back again :
All in bit's, covered in ****e (us again) Measured (as best we could) hub centres,2cm difference,no visual bends,iffy bits,trailing arms straight & mountings.Straightened rear axle up by putting washers behind trailing arm mountings!Took her out still got a bloody thunderous wail at 60mph.Took rear prop off yet again,took her out again nothing!!!!!
Is this the rear diff then??????? or could it still be the rear transfer flange bearings????? Also now got a vibration through the steering wheel under exceleration at 30mph which remains that was'nt there before changing the front UJ's??????
Paddocks have got a rear diff for 150 snakes, but it's naked, what's involved in swopping over all the bits from old diff,joints etc.... would it be best to get a new rear left hand side stub axle,half shaft (side that got ****ted) at the same time?????????
And in the meantime unless we get this sorted wishing you all a Very Merry Christmas & A Happy New Year!!!!!!!
Cheers Jason.......Blurrrrrreh
All in bit's, covered in ****e (us again) Measured (as best we could) hub centres,2cm difference,no visual bends,iffy bits,trailing arms straight & mountings.Straightened rear axle up by putting washers behind trailing arm mountings!Took her out still got a bloody thunderous wail at 60mph.Took rear prop off yet again,took her out again nothing!!!!!
Is this the rear diff then??????? or could it still be the rear transfer flange bearings????? Also now got a vibration through the steering wheel under exceleration at 30mph which remains that was'nt there before changing the front UJ's??????
Paddocks have got a rear diff for 150 snakes, but it's naked, what's involved in swopping over all the bits from old diff,joints etc.... would it be best to get a new rear left hand side stub axle,half shaft (side that got ****ted) at the same time?????????
And in the meantime unless we get this sorted wishing you all a Very Merry Christmas & A Happy New Year!!!!!!!
Cheers Jason.......Blurrrrrreh
