If you would keep it on one thread would be easier to follow.......... You have this project like a pile of horse **** on a road............ all over the place:p

I think you'll find I made a new one just for that with the original sketches from the other guy just so everything was in one place and easy to search for if anyone wants it in the future ;)
 
definitely not a 2 to 3 minute job when you have to stop and check the size with calipers evey few cuts

Why? Do you not Have a scale on the cross slide handwheel? Measure first cut, turn down to 1mm above size using afore-mentioned scale, measure to check actual final amount removal, then slow feed rate for finish cut at size. And use a micrometer, the only calipers you should use are the ones on your legs:p

Had to take it from 50mm to 25.4mm so working fast will give a rough finish taking 1mm cuts each time



Possibly but I work with the one I'm given on a Friday, as said this isn't hi precision :p its not a moving part all it is is lengthening a rod


Fookin right it int, I could do better using flint as a cutting tool:D
 
I has been doing stuff at the weekends :p slowly getting there when I can be arsed going out into the rain……..

this weekend is removing the rear tub and hacking the bulkhead out if I get a chance so I can start king cabbing it properly, the previous owner was a nonce :doh: seriously who pop rivets a roof but doesn't use tiger seal to fix the gaps left if bodging yet superglues new footwells to the outside of the bulkhead :doh:
 
I has been doing stuff at the weekends :p slowly getting there when I can be arsed going out into the rain……..

this weekend is removing the rear tub and hacking the bulkhead out if I get a chance so I can start king cabbing it properly, the previous owner was a nonce :doh: seriously who pop rivets a roof but doesn't use tiger seal to fix the gaps left if bodging yet superglues new footwells to the outside of the bulkhead :doh:


Bit like the current owner :p :rolleyes:
 
Ahhh but they don't chop the back of a roof off then shove checker plate on it :p



current owner is fixing the bodges ;)

still no vrooooooooooom on the motor and its been a least 2 month since your little demo run............ Inside of the bore are rusting away and the rings will soon be stuck to the piston and all the oil is in the oil pan, top end of that motor is bone dry, and the carbs are not doing very well either.
You need to start that thing up once a week or you will have problems and we will see 3500 more posts:rolleyes:
 
I'll pop a squirt of oil in the bores and crank it over by hand but as the tub is about to come off I won't be starting it yet. Once the crossmember is in and the gearbox is secure then I will get on with it but no point if its just going to do more harm than good
 
I'll pop a squirt of oil in the bores and crank it over by hand but as the tub is about to come off I won't be starting it yet. Once the crossmember is in and the gearbox is secure then I will get on with it but no point if its just going to do more harm than good

Need to finish one step at a time
 
It's one large step. Can't fire up if not torque will just try and twist the engine and box out if not secured right
 

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