Very crudly:
Big black blop engine
thin line = stud
thick line = what i need a spanner to do
so surely a bendy head one would work fine (and yes there is space to get it over the top of the stud, even though my drawing would suggest otherwise)
ratty
I'm not special I'm limited edition
Yer probably right. Unless it's a decent quality one there aint gonna be enough teeth to have small enough movements on the ratchet and even then it'll be touch and go.
I had to stick the top bell housing bolt in on a denzel rover 25 a couple of weeks back after it rattled loose, slid out by a couple of inches and then started arcing on the main starter live.
Even using a snap-on ratchet and I only just had enough room to go one tooth at a time and wind the bugger back in without removing the starter motor. My fingers were like ice cubes after.
Mike Whiskey
New Member
Whats at the other end of the stud?
Can it be rotated in order to tighten to the engine before you secure the other end?
MW
Can it be rotated in order to tighten to the engine before you secure the other end?
MW
With the standard spanner end you can get it on but not turn it enough the get it onto the next turn of the nut, you can't get the multi point end of the spanner on as that forces an angle which doesn't work, so, ideally you need to use the multi point end, but, with a kink in it - and hense the original requriement
oldskool
Well-Known Member
Haha don't ya just love where the put some of these bolts, you need 10'' fingers with 6 joints for some of them.Yer probably right. Unless it's a decent quality one there aint gonna be enough teeth to have small enough movements on the ratchet and even then it'll be touch and go.
I had to stick the top bell housing bolt in on a denzel rover 25 a couple of weeks back after it rattled loose, slid out by a couple of inches and then started arcing on the main starter live.
Even using a snap-on ratchet and I only just had enough room to go one tooth at a time and wind the bugger back in without removing the starter motor. My fingers were like ice cubes after.
No, i tried this - it worked well for the other side, but their is a bracket on this side which has the mount is fastened to then this to the chassis, it's not easy to explain - but in short, no you can't fasten the engine side first as far as i am aware / have found out.
Could possibly get the welding gun in there - could weld the nut to the stud to stop it moving when the engine is running.
I'll hate myself if i ever have to take the engine out... but it would work?!
ratty
I'm not special I'm limited edition
Very crudly:
Big black blop engine
thin line = stud
thick line = what i need a spanner to do
so surely a bendy head one would work fine (and yes there is space to get it over the top of the stud, even though my drawing would suggest otherwise)
offset or swan neck spanners?
Blue Point Swan Neck Ratcheting Spanners New No Reserve on eBay (end time 16-Dec-10 21:09:13 GMT)
oldskool
Well-Known Member
Right ok, you say you can get an open ended spanner on it, so turn it as far as it will go take the spanner off turn it over will it go on the nut then so you can turn it, then take spanner off turn it over again back on nut and so on.With the standard spanner end you can get it on but not turn it enough the get it onto the next turn of the nut, you can't get the multi point end of the spanner on as that forces an angle which doesn't work, so, ideally you need to use the multi point end, but, with a kink in it - and hense the original requriement
i would still have the same problem, the wings not in the way... and if i take it off it would never go back on again - bulk head is a bit on the rusty side!
Might work, but, still probably won't get enough turn on the nut, really need the multi point.
Maybe i just need to bite the bullet and buy one.
You can't turn it enough to then flip over and get the spanner back on, that's the problem. There is too much metal around the open end of the spanner. I could take a grinder to the spanner to allow this approach to work, but that would wreck a spanner.
Beast o Bodmin
Banned
Yer probably right. Unless it's a decent quality one there aint gonna be enough teeth to have small enough movements on the ratchet and even then it'll be touch and go.
I had to stick the top bell housing bolt in on a denzel rover 25 a couple of weeks back after it rattled loose, slid out by a couple of inches and then started arcing on the main starter live.
Even using a snap-on ratchet and I only just had enough room to go one tooth at a time and wind the bugger back in without removing the starter motor. My fingers were like ice cubes after.
poor you.a rover....
Beast o Bodmin
Banned
flats of a spanner bump.you will find lots of subtle shape differences that you can get.
i think i have 5 or 6 types of ring spanner for some sizes.
as olsskool said you work alot but it will tighten slowly.
i think i have 5 or 6 types of ring spanner for some sizes.
as olsskool said you work alot but it will tighten slowly.
oldskool
Well-Known Member
I have spanners exactly for that if i need an odball one ill cut one up and weld it back together or heat it up and bend it, i have about 10 different sets of good spanners including 4 sets of ratchet spanners an i still come up against ones i can't get to, fooking car designers.
ratty
I'm not special I'm limited edition
they do swan necks in multi-point. That link was for illustration purposes only.
From what you are saying I'd be going down the market/poundland etc and buying the cheapest spanner I could to 'modify' into what I need. I have quite a few different spanners, chisels, punches, alan keys etc and knocking around that I have modified to do different tasks.
ratty
I'm not special I'm limited edition
ratty
I'm not special I'm limited edition
Cheers, since the last 3 posts all relate to 'making my own tool' guess that's the route i'll be taking!
see. Yer starting to sound like a pro now.
