Recent content by SimonM

My local Land Rover dealer supplied my 5 digit code free of charge. I did have to go there in person though with proof that I owned the car as they wouldn't do it over the phone...

I had the same clutch symptoms and cured it by changing the master cylinder on the bulkhead. Mine cost £90 but only because I wanted it quickly and popped down to euro car parts. Same on eBay would have been £69 ish. Simple to change too - its even possible without any tools as it just clips...

Not trying to kick a man when he's down, but the battery clamp bolt in my wife's Freelander just turned uselessly in its housing when I needed to change my battery a few weeks ago. Ended up drilling the fecking thing out Just sayin' ;)

Looks to have similar issues to the one that I bought recently. If there is no paperwork to prove a recent VCU change you'll probably need a new one. I paid £220 ish plus postage for a recon from Bell Engineering, including bearings. Fuel tank cradle cost me £70 for what turned out to a not...

If the VCU is reported as being 'faulty' then the IRD could well be shagged. If it were me I'd want one that worked properly. You may not take it off road but you might want to drive it in the winter after all. Unless its being virtually given away I'd find a better one All IMO :)

When mine did this I loosened the mounting screws holding the rear door catch to the body, moved it outwards a bit and re-tightened. This was so that the glass didn't exert so much pressure on the sealing rubber when closed. Took a couple of goes to get it right, together with a bit of silicone...

Yep, that's how I did mine

Well I finally found a second hand cradle for £60. Looked OK at first glance but when I cleaned it up I found that it was a bit thin on one side to say the least. I tried to weld in a patch but a combination of my poor technique and the thin metal (Not sure how thick the original was but...

Update - I may have found an alternative used one at my loocal breakers. They're going to take it off of the car at the weekend and I should be able to pick it up on Monday. Still no refund from the first one though...

Well the cradle that I paid for last week still hasn't turned up. Phoned the breaker and he said that there was a problem with it when it came off of the car so they didn't send it - nice of them to let me know! They still have my money but will be crediting it back to me tomorrow... So I still...

I don't have a sticker but I like the sentiment - appeals to the atheist in me :) It is a bit of a cliche on Land Rovers though, so best not really...

Change the master cylinder - £100 (£70ish on eBay) and 30 mins to do as it all just unclips. Might fix the issue, if it doesn't you'll have a nice new master cylinder to go with the new clutch that you'll need. This assumes that you have a TD4 - don't know about the others!

Think that you mentioned somewhere that the clutch biting point was low, in which case it's worth changing the clutch master cylinder if you haven't already done so. I had a low clutch biting point and difficulty engaging gears and a new master cylinder seems to have sorted it. Cost me £100 or...

I have a series as well and have always taken the view that I'd rather just replace a broken lens if I nudge something that straighten out the bodywork as well due to the light guard bending it. Freelander lights are a bit less exposed though, so I may be talking bollocks in this context!

I'll see what it's like when it comes off - doesn't look promising but I suppose that anything is repairable given enough time! Will post a pic when I get around to doing it :)