Timing Marks....

Has anyone got any pics or diagrams of timing marks for a 2.5 N/A diesel..

I should add this is a Sherpa version, so I think the timing cover is different than the Landy, but would hazard a guess the marks are the same..

Want to replace con rod bearings and piston rings, so might as well do the timing belt/chain as well....

Help please.

Codbasher said:

Has anyone got any pics or diagrams of timing marks for a 2.5 N/A diesel..

I should add this is a Sherpa version, so I think the timing cover is different than the Landy, but would hazard a guess the marks are the same..

Want to replace con rod bearings and piston rings, so might as well do the timing belt/chain as well....

Help please.

Click to expand...

Yes, I can assist you there, it's a 15J Engine from a Sherpa, right?

If you have a flat steel cover over the belt it's a 15J.
The LandRover versions have a waterproof alloy casting over the belt.
Your tinny cover is NOT waterproof, but the pump sits much higher which is good.

Your tin cover comes on and off WITHOUT draining the water or taking off the waterpump. You do need to take off the crankshaft pulley though.

This engine uses a DIFFERENT TIMING BELT! I think it has 124 teeth.


LOOSEN the valve rocker adjusters right off so you don't bend valves turning the engine.
Set the crankshaft to top dead centre with number one FIRING, which means the valves of number 4 "rocking"

Now turn the camwheel till the DOT on the wheel is lined up with the arrow on the casing at about 8 o'clock.

Now set the PUMP wheel - it has two marks (bummer huh?) a DOT and probably a F. Set the dot to line up with the arrow on the casting at about 1-30 o'clock.

Now fit the belt over the pulleys in order - crank, then under the fixed idler, then over the camwheel, then over the pumpwheel, then back down and over the tensioner. As you fit the belt make sure it FITS tight and that nothing ends up "one tooth out" or it will run sick as a parrot.

Do you know how to do up the tensioner properly?
have you got access to a "read-off" torque wrench?

CharlesY

You may find this site useful: Engine Parts

After my timing belt broke on the motorway doing 70mph my 2.5 sherpa mashed 5 push rods, so I got the rods from paddocks and the belt from eBay as I could not find it anywhere else (as CharlesY says its NOT the standard LR one which has 128 teeth). CharlesY had recovered me to his place and after I got the parts he had it up and running good as new less than 30hours after the breakdown!

After the fix I then found this site where I am going to buy a few spare, it does all sorts for the sherpa engine. It also has a page with all the LR engine parts too.

This is the belt the 2.5N/A Sherpa engine needs: enginestuff.co.uk

Escort would love to put a tdi engine in, but aint got one to hand

Yes Charles must be a 15j as it does have the tin plate cover, removing the crank pulley is gonna be a no no as I have nothing that size for the nut, and I cant get stilsons in there. To be honest I dont know when the belt was changed, so may put that part on hold for the time being.

There is some crank case pressure as the rocker gasket contantly 'leaks', despite changing the gasket twice, and I have checked the rocker is flat, so to my mind there big ends are going, difficult to listen to as the engine is fairly noisey as i suppose all the old diesels were.

Really what I want is to listen to another series with a Sherpa lump in to compare noise, power etc.

Stage one is that you MUST get a "inch and five-eighths" AF socket, and a two-foot thing to turn it with. You MUST be able to get the crankshaft pulley nut off before you can even think about working on the engine.

Inch and 5/8ths AF is just over 41mm, so a 42mm socket would do it.

DO NOT USE STILSONS! Nuff said on that Slob, huh?

Now clean the rocker cover breather outlet tube PROPERLY, and then the hose and the nipple it fits onto on the inlet manifold. make sure there IS a air filter in the big can.

A good breather should be able to handle all the fumes and keep the pressure in the rocker cover low, so it leaks less.

CharlesY

OK mate, I get the hint have got to go to Halfords later so will see if they have a 42 mm socket.

Still using the old oil bath filter....

Will go out now and redo the breather, soak the rocker pushy in thing in degreaser etc, and will wash pipes in same stuff and will use washing up bottle cleaner thingy on me inlet doo dah...

Cheers.




If I cant get a 42 mm socket, why cant I use stilsons, eh eh come on do tell..... ;o)

If I cant get a 42 mm socket, why cant I use stilsons, eh eh come on do tell..... ;o)

First, it's Hellish bad practice and will rip the hex of the bolt to shreds.

Second, I wonder if there's enough bolt sticking out of the pulley to get a grip of anyway, and if you can only get the stilson jaws half way on the bolt it's going to skid off anyway, and probably draw a bit of blood when it happens and then the ruined head of the bolt will make it impossible to get it off except with a socket, which by this time won't fit anyway.

Third it may be VERY TIGHT. A four-foot length of scaffold pipe on a 3/4" drive ratchet is one thing, but on a stilson it's another matter. Check the torque this bolt should be set to. You'll hardly make it even half way with a 100 foot-pound torque-wrench.

Keep your stilson for gripping scaffolding pipes.

That's why stilsons are called "pipe wrenches".

CharlesY

Is that what Slob did?? ;o0



Nothing in Halfords so will go to local engineering supplies tomoz or tuedays..

Anybody got any ideas on how to undo the 42mm bolt? Tried putting it in gear with brakes on but turns over still?

2cvcitroen said:

Anybody got any ideas on how to undo the 42mm bolt? Tried putting it in gear with brakes on but turns over still?

Click to expand...

Put the socket and ratchet handle ) Samson bar on a big bit of pipe.

Fit socket to crank pulley bolt head from UNDER car.

Lean long pipe UP against the underside of the chassis on the DRIVER's side.

Jam it in place with bits of wood or stuff, or a couple of big cable-ties.

Make sure it is in NEUTRAL.

Turn key to STARTER - JUST for a moment.
If this works there will be a sort of bang and the engine will try to turn.
NOW LET THE KEY GO!!!!!

CARAMBA!

Works most times.

DO NOT WHIRL THE ENGINE OVER WITH A SOCKET AND RATCHET HANDLE ON THE CRANKSHAFT PULLEY BOLT!

CharlesY

Hi Chaps,

I am about to swap the chain on a Series 3 84 88" 2.25 Diesel NA

When I open the flywheel inspection hatch and follow the Haynes manual I should rotate until the timing mark is lining up. However I appear to have

A single timing mark
A double timing mark
A Notch in the flywheel itself

I assume the single timing mark should be used as it appears a little more defined than the double ? Is there anything I need to know here ?

I suspect the timing is off and hence chain replacement. Is there any gear I need to re-set the timing correctly or can I just follow the procedure I have read with valve clearances and rotations/markings etc ?

I assume I am right in assuming if the chain has stretched a new chain wont change anything.

2 .25 diesel is timed at EP no1 which is 108 degrees btdc, its a single line with ep stamped next to it , the 2 lines are for injection pump timing 13 and 14 degrees, slot also lines flywheel at EP for those later engines that use the pin, cam timing needs to be accurate more so than petrols read the book carefully

Thanks James,

I cant read much of what's written on it and its a bugger to get to.

when you have ep mark front pulley key should be sat about 8 oclock

If I re-do the timing with a new chain, do I need to do the injector timing as well ?

Following a guide and #1 valve almost closed should show EP mark coming up to the pointer but it isn't, its the double line coming up so perhaps the last chap timed it with the wrong mark ?

It starts and runs but smokey as hell so I figure its timing..

The front pulley key i.e bottom one with the dog nut on, sits at bang on 12 o clock with the EP mark aligned.

Also the single line is marked TDC (TOP DEAD CENTER) Its a Diesel.

Yay.. With some cleaning up I can see the marks What I thought was TDC was in fact TDC and with some effort I have a clear EP mark.. and yes when that's on the arrow its bang on 8 o clock so thanks for the tip there James.

I have fitted new chain, I did read that following the ops manual the #1 valve should be down but I don't think it is.. So when refitting I should be ok to rotate the cam sprocket until its down...

Sound correct ?

your best fitting it with ep mark at no exhaust peak ie exhaust fully open on no1

Cheers, I have done it roughly and will be more detailed next weekend.. I assume I need to redoe the pump timing if I alter the cam timing ? Dunno how fuel injection timing works tbh.

RANT MODE ON

As far as I can tell there are 2 different ways of doing the timing, one is easier the other is not..

HAYNES
Make sure EP Mark is aligned with pointer
#1 valve should be fully open
Fit chain et voila job is complete

LAND ROVER MANUAL
Get Valve Nearly Fully Open (who uses NEARLY ?)
Mark Cylinder Block and Camshaft sprocket
Make dial test indicator ZERO at this point
Rotate Sprocket clockwise until its back at ZERO
Mark Camshaft where the previous cylinder mark is
Measure distance in between the 2 marks and make a middle mark on the sprocket
Line that mark up with the Cylinder mark and that's timing complete.

Thoughts ?
Haynes seems a lot simpler and more precise from the point of view of open or closed not nearly open.

Why the difference ? I assume the rotation of a dial gauge is basically meaning that the sprocket will be a little bit further around than the Haynes would have had it.