Window mechanism!

Well it's been a long time coming.......................

Was driving to work on monday morning after a severe frost.
Car had warmed up nicely, went to put the frosted window down, then 'twang'


Have done a bit of a how to......the idiots guide.

Northern Irelander said:

Well it's been a long time coming.......................

Was driving to work on monday morning after a severe frost.
Car had warmed up nicely, went to put the frosted window down, then 'twang'


Have done a bit of a how to......the idiots guide.

Click to expand...

Thats good, LR1793 - thats the only Freelander fault covered then?

Remove all door trim, followed by plastic membrane (you can tape this back on)

Attachments (drivers door, 3dr model shown. 5dr and newer models may vary slightly)

1. Lower window to show the window clamps, if the window doesnt go down, push it manually
2. Mark the clamp positon on the glass, undo both clamp bolts (10mm), remove the glass (easiest when removed diagonally)
3. Undo the door strut bolts (T25 torx, x4) and the regulator bolt (10mm), there is a cable clip on back of the strut, reach up and unclip the cable. Disconnect the wire multi-plug on the regulator itself.
4. I marked the position of the window runner bolts (10mm) loosen the bolts, two per runner, then pop them out.
5. fold the runners sideways, so they cross over in the centre, RH runner comes out first, then the regulator. You might have to shuffle the whole assembly to do this!
6. Keep the runners crossed and remove from the door

7. Undo the 4 self tappers on the back of the regulator (T25 torx screws, x4) Note the bottom left one on mine is a standard flat head screw.
8. Remove the backing plate.........the snapped cable, right up at the lug.
9. Remove the runner with the broken/loose cable.
10. Remove the cable from the 'spring end'
11. You might need to roll the cable around the pulley(s) using the recess
12. Measure a new cable relative to the old one. Cut slightly longer than needed (you'll trim to exact length once the lug is fitted) Mark the replacement cable where the new lug will start and end (the good cable was removed to facilitate repair and for demonstration purposes)

ere - LR - this should be in the FAQ section .

13. After you have cut the cable to size, refit the spring and cable sleeve
14. I'm using a lead lug, so I have bent the cable back on itself (pic is a bit fuzzy )
15. I have placed a few fishing weights on a spoon for smelting, use a rag on the handle.....lol... it's gonna get hot. Melt the lead over a gas flame (any gas camping stove or blow torch will do)
16. Once the lead is in a molten state, give the cable end a quick heat over the flame. Insert the cable into a pre-drilled hole in some hard wood (5-6mm deep), use a 5 or 6mm drill bit. It doesn't matter if it's over sized, the lead is easily shaped/cut to size with a Stanley knife or metal file.
17. Quickly pour in the molten lead, hold the cable steady until set (could take 10-30 secs depending on temperature)
I have deliberately poured in more than needed, this is simply to show that anyone can have a go at this....doesnt have to be precision engineering!!
18. Nice shiny new lug, the nipple is from the shape of the wood drill bit
19. new lug relative to where it sits in the spindle (Actual size should be 4mm wide by 5mm long, see previous post no.24), Trim or file down to size.
20. Lug filed down to size and excess cable trimmed too.

21. Fit the cable assembly/sleeves back on to its runner and pulleys. Wind the cable halfway around the spindle. Sometimes you'll need to coax the cable into postion by bending it slightly! Especially on the first bend from the lug
22. Likewise fit the 2nd cable back into its runner then counter rotate the second cable around the spindle in the opposite direction, they should meet approx halfway in adjacent furrows (assuming you have the two clamps at the same height on the runners) Keep a firm grip on the cables to prevent unwinding!!
23. Hold spindle just above the regulator, clip the green D shaped flange into position. Put a little tension on the cable by pulling away from the green flange. lower the spindle on to the motor splines. Keep a firm grip!!
24. Stretch the other cable over the lower outlet (there are two to choose from, go for the one with the most tension on the cable) Note... If the white cable sleeve end doesn't reach, lift the spindle off again and rotate a few degrees to give some slack. Then re-apply tension and refit the white sleeve stop.
25. Spindle in place with cables nestled around it
26. Refit the backing plate, making sure the long tab back slots into the green D-flange. Refit the torx screws and breath a sigh of relief.

Grease or oil all cables and runners

Refit the runners in reverse order of how they came out, tighten up all bolts, clip the cable to the strut again and connect up the regulator multi-pin plug.

Before refitting the glass, give the regulator a quick test using the window switch. With the window out dont run the clamps all the way to the top, just run them with a few inches of travel up or down!!

When you're happy it works, lower the glass into its original position and tighten the clamps, refit the door membrane (duct tape will do) followed by the door trim and handle.

Job done, give yourself a pat on the back and go for a pint/cuppa

The Mad Hat Man said:

ere - LR - this should be in the FAQ section .

Click to expand...

Possibly? but this thread has been running for ages and other members have put in their valuable input. Mine is just one way of doing this.

I'd say it sits well here, all we need is a merger thread with michieldv's rear door regulator

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f38/freelander-window-mechanism-repair-121968.html????

it can be in both

linky for michieldv's fred?

The Mad Hat Man said:

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f38/freelander-window-mechanism-repair-121968.html????

it can be in both

linky for michieldv's fred?

Click to expand...

Nicely edited...................double trouble

Michieldv's thread (formerly Michiel Van de Ven) http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/repair-tail-door-window-regulator-67657.html

just a tip, NI _ or anyone else posting pics - if u can size them to 1024 x 768 then they will all fit nicely on a web page. .

Oh yeah that too :doh:

Northern Irelander said:

Nicely edited...................double trouble

Michieldv's thread (formerly Michiel Van de Ven) http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/repair-tail-door-window-regulator-67657.html

Click to expand...

I think that might take a bit more reworking .

HELP!!!
OK, first off guys, thanks so much for this thread.
Second, I had 3 snap on me in a week, so I got all 4 kits, I started by doing the(in America) Drivers side rear window, got it off no problem when I refit the wire put it back together and tried it the window went up and down 4-5 times and then it came unraveled again, tried it 3 more times(left it a little loose,tried it tight as possible) and the same thing,it keeps coming unraveled.
What the heck am I doing wrong?

i also fitted it no problems, worked for a day and then pinged off! grrrr it was siliconed too