- Posts
- 11,020
- Location
- North of the Wall
OP reckons the bite has always been very low down and so thinks the rod was changed with the clutch 14K miles ago. The invoice lists a new rod!
Whats happend to my clutch? Had to abandon in a field!
- Thread starter Dcoximus
- Start date
This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Agreed, however it the rod was too short then I would have expected it to be a reoccurring issue rather than useable(ish) and then not
- Posts
- 11,020
- Location
- North of the Wall
Looks like he's been living with a short rod (Titter yee not) giving a low bite point and then a seal has gone in the slave cylinder. (possibly master)
Yes I also had issues with 2nd and 4th gear this time last year and for a period could use neither butthe problem disappeard before I could sort them, and again this febuary I coulndt use 4th gear at all before I servicred it and changed fluid and everything went good again, Generally thise gear issues lasted 7-10 days before resolving.
Im about to test run the old girl now.
Im about to test run the old girl now.
- Posts
- 11,020
- Location
- North of the Wall
Good luck. Let us know how you got on.
Right update :
Managed to bleed clutch in field and was able to select all gears but only 3 and 5 with ease, the rest required foot hard to floor and forcing.
drove home and removed the exhaust system, and removed the slave again - Took the push rod out.
Purchased another push rod for the gearbox (LT77 standard bell housing) and compared them, the new one was 3mm longer, and the old one was slightly flattened at the ball end, so assumed this would be contributing to the issue.
Checked the arm inside with a small mirror and its all fine, no punch through etc (which was ruled out as able to change gears anyway).
Re fitted everything, bled system using a "Gunson Easybleed" and no real difference.
Their was a brief moment yesterday test driving where I could change from 1-3 and then to 5 with ease but this then stopped and went quickly back to difficult.
The bite point seems to be very very low on the pedal but Ive adjusted the master to the max.
So could I still have air in the system? given that the clutch behaviour does change abit, or could it be something else? Garage I buy parts from thinks its doubtful a clutch out job based on age of clutch.
I can use abit of hooked wire to pull the clutch arm forward to the opening in the bell housing, and then I push it back with the wire till it goes firm and at this point place the push rod into the socket/hole. At the point the new rod sits 2-3mm proud of the housing - is this right? The garage seemed to want to offer no comment really. Would that give enough travel to disengage the clutch?
Ive got a pic of the rod if needed.
Otherwise should I reverse bleed the clutch?
Is it possible Ive got a bubble that just wont shift?
Managed to bleed clutch in field and was able to select all gears but only 3 and 5 with ease, the rest required foot hard to floor and forcing.
drove home and removed the exhaust system, and removed the slave again - Took the push rod out.
Purchased another push rod for the gearbox (LT77 standard bell housing) and compared them, the new one was 3mm longer, and the old one was slightly flattened at the ball end, so assumed this would be contributing to the issue.
Checked the arm inside with a small mirror and its all fine, no punch through etc (which was ruled out as able to change gears anyway).
Re fitted everything, bled system using a "Gunson Easybleed" and no real difference.
Their was a brief moment yesterday test driving where I could change from 1-3 and then to 5 with ease but this then stopped and went quickly back to difficult.
The bite point seems to be very very low on the pedal but Ive adjusted the master to the max.
So could I still have air in the system? given that the clutch behaviour does change abit, or could it be something else? Garage I buy parts from thinks its doubtful a clutch out job based on age of clutch.
I can use abit of hooked wire to pull the clutch arm forward to the opening in the bell housing, and then I push it back with the wire till it goes firm and at this point place the push rod into the socket/hole. At the point the new rod sits 2-3mm proud of the housing - is this right? The garage seemed to want to offer no comment really. Would that give enough travel to disengage the clutch?
Ive got a pic of the rod if needed.
Otherwise should I reverse bleed the clutch?
Is it possible Ive got a bubble that just wont shift?
Does pumping the clutch rapidly before trying to change gear make any difference? If not I would suggest it is probably not a bleeding issue.
Has fitting the slightly longer arm changed the bite point bringing it further up the pedal travel?
Colthebrummie
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 9,870
- Location
- Thatcham
I have never seen this particular type of rod, if there should be a plastic clip on the end of it, wouldn't the clip add a little to the length, thus no clip, rod too short. Pardon me if I'm making a stupid comment.
Col
Col
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 91,879
- Location
- louth lincs
no holding clip has no effect on rod length
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 15,421
- Location
- Wiltshire
You have got the slave cylinder the correct way up?
Just checking
Just checking
Slave cylinder is nipple topside!
If I pump the clutch sometimes it does make a huge difference, othertimes not much at all.
Today I could dip the clutch when in any gear (started in first) and it did not bite fully dipped, but now on all gears their is tiny bite even at full clutch.
This makes me think it is still cylinder related.
If I pump the clutch sometimes it does make a huge difference, othertimes not much at all.
Today I could dip the clutch when in any gear (started in first) and it did not bite fully dipped, but now on all gears their is tiny bite even at full clutch.
This makes me think it is still cylinder related.
zeaphod
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 3,103
- Location
- Belfast, Norn Iron
I hope I'm wrong, but I'm starting to think release bearing or clutch plate. Any unusual noise from that area when you use the clutch?
- Posts
- 11,020
- Location
- North of the Wall
The clutch spring is very strong and so takes a lot of force to push it. That force is transmitted through the fluid and if there is air in the fluid then the forces involved will be compressing it. I had to force a lot of fluid through mine with a pressure bleed kit, before I got an easy gear change.
neilly
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 20,000
- Location
- Oxfordshireness
- Posts
- 14,902
- Location
- Doncaster
I usually do it facing the vehicle so I can see what happens ...
neilly
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 20,000
- Location
- Oxfordshireness
You're just a weirdo............LOL
I do it laying down...but then I am just lazy.
Cheers
- Posts
- 11,020
- Location
- North of the Wall
Interesting. Mine was on a very slight down hill, but I wouldn't have thought it enough to affect the positions air could lie?
neilly
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 20,000
- Location
- Oxfordshireness
I have a steep drive, nose down it would not bleed........slap forehead moment , turned it around and hey presto all air out.
Cheers
- Posts
- 11,020
- Location
- North of the Wall
Suppose there must be a critical point at which a bend in the pipe, holding an air bubble, when tilted allows the bubble to be dragged along with the fluid.
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 91,879
- Location
- louth lincs
its angle if the slave, at a certain angle the end furthest from nipple becomes higherSuppose there must be a critical point at which a bend in the pipe, holding an air bubble, when tilted allows the bubble to be dragged along with the fluid.
