What is going on ?

Our 2001 Freelander Auto has been absolutely fine until yesterday morning. It does have a slight reluctancy below 2000 rpm as pretty normal.

Started it up (instant start as normal)

Try to accelerate and it has virtually no effect.

Continued pushing of the throttle eventually got it up to 2000 rpm when it rev'd up like an express train.

Went out with it and eventually it behaved normally.

This morning I tried it again and it will rev to 1900 rpm and no more.

There is no black smoke or any horrible sounds just no go.

Any ideas appreciated.

Thanks.

edit: it seems to cure itself as soon as it warmed up.

edit 2: take that back its reverts to no power as soon as the revs drop below 2200.

Unplug the MAF and see if it improves - if it does there is your answer - an unplugged MAF reverts to a default setting which while not perfect is better than a failed one so this is a starter test.

angeloc said:

Unplug the MAF and see if it improves - if it does there is your answer - an unplugged MAF reverts to a default setting which while not perfect is better than a failed one so this is a starter test.

Click to expand...

Thanks for that. Is it OK to unplug the MAF on an Automatic ?

Logic tells me I don't see why you can't - is there a reason that they may be different to a geared car?

angeloc said:

Logic tells me I don't see why you can't - is there a reason that they may be different to a geared car?

Click to expand...

There is absolutely no difference at all.

There have been lots of threads with the exact same symptoms ,all started in the last few weeks .

Yikes a MAF exodus!

I'd got it in my mind that I'd read it somewhere

I'll whip the plug off tomorrow and try it.

Thanks.

angeloc said:

Yikes a MAF exodus!

Click to expand...

That is positively brilliant, angeloc.

Well worth 2 gold stars! ound:

Big thanks to 'angeloc' :tea:

Well I disconnect the MAF, I also did Rons mod to the air filter box so I can get to the MAF in future without removing the plastic.

Result, revs like a train but with loads of black smoke.

On this basis I presume I have a knackered MAF and now have to look at the options........

A. replace it with a Bosch unit

B. replace it with a Pierburg + a Digimafam

C. replace it with a Pierburg + a Synergy 2

I'm really not after a 'power-house', just a nice-running vehicle for everyday use and occasional towing our caravan.

Any suggestions received with thanks.

Gary

Synergy works very well Eco mode for normal torque mode for towing also get Piersburg MAF

Bugsy said:

Big thanks to 'angeloc' :tea:

Well I disconnect the MAF, I also did Rons mod to the air filter box so I can get to the MAF in future without removing the plastic.

Result, revs like a train but with loads of black smoke.

On this basis I presume I have a knackered MAF and now have to look at the options........

A. replace it with a Bosch unit

B. replace it with a Pierburg + a Digimafam

C. replace it with a Pierburg + a Synergy 2

I'm really not after a 'power-house', just a nice-running vehicle for everyday use and occasional towing our caravan.

Any suggestions received with thanks.

Gary

Click to expand...

Hi Gary,

I didn't set out to create a 'power-house' either - my MAF was kaput and I basically needed the car working properly again.

After I did the research I was a bit dubious of it all.

When I found out the price of a new Bosch MAF I realised that the whole kit from Ron wouldn't be much more.

What I'm really saying is that the performance came as a bonus.

I occasionally tow a heavy trailer (2 tonne max - but it's usually around 1200kg) and the Freelander was a bit underpowered for the hills. I regularly go on long journeys, but for most of the time I'm doing local stuff.

So - Option A would get you no new or extra benefit.

Option B - a Digimafam is being listed by Ron as for the L series. Does it work well with the TD4 - if at all.

Option C - will give you much more control and flexibility + safer overtaking & hugely improved towing ability.
It really is amazing with the trailer hitched up - it's like the trailer is half the weight it was before.

The addition of the dash switch is the icing on the cake for me - it means that the settings are no longer a compromise - but can be tailored to suit what I'm doing at any particular time - even part-way through a journey.

It has made the car enjoyable to drive - it certainly hasn't changed it into some boy-racer special.

Caio,

Singvogel.

Thanks for that, I'm pretty well decided on a Synergy 2 .

Interestingly, when I re-connected the MAF today the car has reverted to how it was before I had the problem.

I will talk to Ron and ask him if I can get away with using my existing MAF for the time being (dosh is a bit tight at the moment)

Just an update on this problem.
I took the Freelander into the local LR Independent yesterday (I had a pre-booked appointment)
He checked pretty well everything,
Air hoses
EGR
Turbo
Injectors
Leak-down test
All vacuum pipes
On the LR plug-in computer No faults detected.
He said that the MAF was OK (can it actually be checked with LR plug-in equipment ?)
Before I spend the money is there anything else that can cause this (no acceleration below 2000rpm) problem.

As I said previously with the MAF disconnected the bloody thing flys, but does chuck out lots of black smoke.


.

What did the garage suggest it was? My bets are on the MAF still. Or perhaps the crank sensor -top left of engine under the plastic intercooler box.

To be honest I don't think he knew

It starts fine, it ticks over perfectly and with the MAF disconnected it revs with no problems.

I'm fairly sure that the crank sensor was checked as part of the testing but I'll check with him tomorrow.

Thanks for the advice.

See if you can borrow a MAF and swop it out.

Yes, I'll do that.

I'm beginning to wonder what this thing called 'progress' is all about when you have a problem like this. This garage attitude of "well, we'll try this part or that part. All bloody guessing really and at the customers expense, of course.

Do you remember the days of plugs & points, distributor caps and condensers etc, not a bloody 'sensor' in sight

Time for a 'fag' and a coffee.

I'm beginning to wonder what this thing called 'progress' is all about when you have a problem like this. This garage attitude of "well, we'll try this part or that part. All bloody guessing really and at the customers expense, of course.

Click to expand...

some good related info on rover ron's pages :

ROVER 75 MGZT SERVICING

ROVER 75 MGZT ENGINE FAULT FINDING

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btw: seems like some maf sensors might benefit from cleaning

http://www.fordscorpio.co.uk/cleanmaf.htm

http://www.fiatboo.co.uk/photogal/guidepics/maf/maf.pdf

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

some info at the bottom of this page relating to maf sensors :

http://www.knfilters.com/video/product_testing.htm

I set off to the garage today to collect a new MAF the owner said I could try. I don't believe this but after one brief reluctance to pull the vehicle up a hill (had to drop into sport-mode and drop down the gears) the 'thing' ran perfectly for the rest of the journey, no problem.
Frustrating doesn't even begin to explain it.

Anyway, fitted the new MAF and it runs OK, pretty much as before with no real grunt when pulling away but it revs freely and with no hesitation problems. I can return the MAF so I'll try it for a couple of days and see what happens.

Figures.---------------- before - after

Airflow --------------- 260.30 - 380.30
Manifold pressure --- 101.40 - 101.20
Low pressure----------353.40 - 352.10
Fuel rail pressure---- 28658.84 both days
All other figures identical.


I think it time for a Synergy 2.