Multiple warning lights and power loss

Hi all

2011 RRS TDV6 auto

Trying a post here to see if someone can offer their advice. Forum user Bison posted a few years ago about the same symptoms and a ride height recalibration sorted it out but not for me.

Car has been losing power , like a dead gas pedal Where if you come off the gas and back on it ge erally comes back.

So scanned the car today. No errors apart from Dab. Went a drive and the power issue continued. Went on motorway and felt it at lower speeds. On entering 70mph limit I got a load of warning lights.

Emergency brake assist unavailable
Stability control unavailable
Gearbox fault
Parking brake fault

Scanned the car and get all the codes listed below Including ride height.

Lights go off after restart the car and drives as normal and even noted that the power loss didn't seem as apparent with lights on.

I think the parking brake shoes are binding but not sure if that's related as rear driver side wheel gets hit and smells which ill need to sort. And ride height is always off on the front left since I got 4x new tyres recently. Think fitter messed something up leaving it jacked for 2 hours.

Battery seems good sitting at 13v then rising to 14.2v when running. Alternator recently tested and good. New fuel filter last week. Serviced in November.

Appreciate thoughts. Thanks so much guys.

Try graphing the alternator output if you can. It's possible the alternator isn't outputting the correct voltage all the time, so the battery has to take up the slack. All those lost or invalid comms codes are likely due to low voltage on the modules.
These vehicles will flatten a battery in a couple of minutes when running. Also how old is the battery? If it's more then 4 years old, it's well past its best anyway, so it might be worth replacing it as a matter of course.
And replace the brake light switch, as that's giving a fault code, which can also upset other modules.

Nodge68 said:

Try graphing the alternator output if you can. It's possible the alternator isn't outputting the correct voltage all the time, so the battery has to take up the slack. All those lost or invalid comms codes are likely due to low voltage on the modules.
These vehicles will flatten a battery in a couple of minutes when running. Also how old is the battery? If it's more then 4 years old, it's well past its best anyway, so it might be worth replacing it as a matter of course.
And replace the brake light switch, as that's giving a fault code, which can also upset other modules.

Click to expand...

Thanks Nodge

Nodge68 said:

Try graphing the alternator output if you can. It's possible the alternator isn't outputting the correct voltage all the time, so the battery has to take up the slack. All those lost or invalid comms codes are likely due to low voltage on the modules.
These vehicles will flatten a battery in a couple of minutes when running. Also how old is the battery? If it's more then 4 years old, it's well past its best anyway, so it might be worth replacing it as a matter of course.
And replace the brake light switch, as that's giving a fault code, which can also upset other modules.

Click to expand...

Ordered Brake Light switch this morning.

My mechanic has tested electrical system (so I'm told) and found no faults. In fact he couldn't recreate the symptoms I am experiencing. They come and go and appear when I use the vehicle more. So I will try follow your advice anyway. Starting with the switch then the battery and a suspension calibration. Thanks again dude