P38A Transfer box removal

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Grrrrrr

Grrrrrr

Technician, Bodgit & Scarper Ltd
Full Member
Posts
19,270
Location
Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
While I had a wheel in the air recently I tested my viscous coupling. I swear the wheel was harder to turn than it used to be, although I could be getting weaker; certainly the neighbour commented on the bend in the 2' breaker bar I was using to turn it. So, I think my viscous coupling is on its way out. The car has done over 150k miles so the morse chain is probably due replacement too (I think Land Rover recommend 100k miles?). So, I am thinking why not put a whole refurbed transfer box on from Ashcrofts?

So, first question: do I ave to drop the whole gearbox down as per RAVE with the centre console out or is it possible to get the transfer box off a little quicker and more easily? Or is RAVE the only way to go here?
 
jamesmartin said:
as far as i remember its the cross member that needs removing
Click to expand...

Thanks, James.

IIRC the cross member is attached to the gearbox housing. Given mine's the manual I am wondering if I can put it in 3rd gear and just drop the whole cross member down maybe 4 inches to get at the bolts. That just leaves the problem of how to get the transfer box off the back. it looks reasonably heavy and it is a bugger of a shape to get hold of. If I angle the whole assembly then it'll need to pull backwards and drop at the angle I have inclined it which isn't ideal.

Thinking about it, I'd have to remove the gearbox oil cooler pipes too as they'll be clipped up and won't bend!
 
Grrrrrr said:
Thanks, James.

IIRC the cross member is attached to the gearbox housing. Given mine's the manual I am wondering if I can put it in 3rd gear and just drop the whole cross member down maybe 4 inches to get at the bolts. That just leaves the problem of how to get the transfer box off the back. it looks reasonably heavy and it is a bugger of a shape to get hold of. If I angle the whole assembly then it'll need to pull backwards and drop at the angle I have inclined it which isn't ideal.
Click to expand...
with a jack supporting box but you dont need to pull box off to change viscous just access to the front housing
 
jamesmartin said:
with a jack supporting box but you dont need to pull box off to change viscous just access to the front housing
Click to expand...

Planning on changing the whole transfer box, not just the viscous coupling. Think of it as preventative maintenance.

I think I'll order the transfer box. It'll take a week to be delivered and then it'll be there handy for when I can find a weekend to swap it all over.
 
I dont think u need take box outthe 6 bolts and two propshafts off .As for the handbrake take switch pack out from centre console and take pin holding cable out and then you can pull the cable down from under the car and leave the drum on and take take the whole unit off.
 
ovalandrover said:
I dont think u need take box outthe 6 bolts and two propshafts off .As for the handbrake take switch pack out from centre console and take pin holding cable out and then you can pull the cable down from under the car and leave the drum on and take take the whole unit off.
Click to expand...

Al says he took the 4 bolts holding the handbrake backplate off. Any idea what he was on about? I'm guessing the lever up in the cab is held on by bolts but I'd have thought the box would be in the way. Your way sounds easier although no sure how easy to get back together afterwards?
 
cable just pushes back up through the hole it came out and put the cotter pin back in dont have to take the hanbrake assembly off
 
Grrrrrr said:
Al says he took the 4 bolts holding the handbrake backplate off. Any idea what he was on about? I'm guessing the lever up in the cab is held on by bolts but I'd have thought the box would be in the way. Your way sounds easier although no sure how easy to get back together afterwards?
Click to expand...
back plate is held on by 4 bolts once off the whole hand brake can be swung out the way,the lever in the cab is held by 2 you either disconnect cable there or move the hand brake assembly
 
Can you possibly Video/Photograph the whole operation so peeps can learn from it?
Its a far, far better thing that ........ etc. etc. ;)
Besides, if its all good you are a hero, if it all goes to Sh1t you can be an object lesson in "how not to...." :D

JK, hope it really goes well and you get a stonkingly good result for all your effort.
 
tomcat59alan said:
Remove the propshaft and the brake drum and you will see the four bolts which hold the back plate on.you need to remove the cross member as well
Click to expand...
I cannot remember if I had to remove the drive flange to remove the handbrake back plate.check the length of the six bolts that hold the transfer box to the gearbox, on the Classic there are two longer ones that will go in but if you tighten them they will punch through into the gearbox and cause an oil leak.Don't ask how i know . Edited because of bad spelling in case the Scottish editing police are reading if its got through her ignore mode:p
 
Last edited:
tomcat59alan said:
I cannot remember if I had to remove the drive flange to remove the handbrake back plate.check the length of the six bolts that hold the transfer box to the gearbox, on the Classic there are two longer ones that will go in but if you tighten them they will punch through into the gearbox and cause an oil leak.Don't ask jow i know .
Click to expand...
you dont have to remove drive flange
 
DanClarke said:
Can you possibly Video/Photograph the whole operation so peeps can learn from it?
Its a far, far better thing that ........ etc. etc. ;)
Besides, if its all good you are a hero, if it all goes to Sh1t you can be an object lesson in "how not to...." :D

JK, hope it really goes well and you get a stonkingly good result for all your effort.
Click to expand...
I have a transfer box in the garage and the handbrake assembly I could photograph tomorrow, maybe, everything is such an effort at the moment.
 
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