P38A Transfer box removal

[Grrrrrr]

While I had a wheel in the air recently I tested my viscous coupling. I swear the wheel was harder to turn than it used to be, although I could be getting weaker; certainly the neighbour commented on the bend in the 2' breaker bar I was using to turn it. So, I think my viscous coupling is on its way out. The car has done over 150k miles so the morse chain is probably due replacement too (I think Land Rover recommend 100k miles?). So, I am thinking why not put a whole refurbed transfer box on from Ashcrofts?

So, first question: do I ave to drop the whole gearbox down as per RAVE with the centre console out or is it possible to get the transfer box off a little quicker and more easily? Or is RAVE the only way to go here?

 

[Grrrrrr]

This mentions getting creative with lots of extensions but seems to imply 6 bolts and out after the props are off?

https://www.rangerovers.net/forum/7...47-how-replace-transfer-case-drive-chain.html

Has he missed anything?

 

[Grrrrrr]

Ah, and @tomcat59alan says: "I released the four bolts in the handbrake backplate and left the cable attached, just tied it all out of the way.". Where are those 4 bolts, Al?

 

[jamesmartin]

This mentions getting creative with lots of extensions but seems to imply 6 bolts and out after the props are off?

https://www.rangerovers.net/forum/7...47-how-replace-transfer-case-drive-chain.html

Has he missed anything?

as far as i remember its the cross member that needs removing

 

[Grrrrrr]

as far as i remember its the cross member that needs removing

Thanks, James.

IIRC the cross member is attached to the gearbox housing. Given mine's the manual I am wondering if I can put it in 3rd gear and just drop the whole cross member down maybe 4 inches to get at the bolts. That just leaves the problem of how to get the transfer box off the back. it looks reasonably heavy and it is a bugger of a shape to get hold of. If I angle the whole assembly then it'll need to pull backwards and drop at the angle I have inclined it which isn't ideal.

Thinking about it, I'd have to remove the gearbox oil cooler pipes too as they'll be clipped up and won't bend!

 

[jamesmartin]

Thanks, James.

IIRC the cross member is attached to the gearbox housing. Given mine's the manual I am wondering if I can put it in 3rd gear and just drop the whole cross member down maybe 4 inches to get at the bolts. That just leaves the problem of how to get the transfer box off the back. it looks reasonably heavy and it is a bugger of a shape to get hold of. If I angle the whole assembly then it'll need to pull backwards and drop at the angle I have inclined it which isn't ideal.

with a jack supporting box but you dont need to pull box off to change viscous just access to the front housing

 

[Grrrrrr]

with a jack supporting box but you dont need to pull box off to change viscous just access to the front housing

Planning on changing the whole transfer box, not just the viscous coupling. Think of it as preventative maintenance.

I think I'll order the transfer box. It'll take a week to be delivered and then it'll be there handy for when I can find a weekend to swap it all over.

 

[ovalandrover]

I dont think u need take box outthe 6 bolts and two propshafts off .As for the handbrake take switch pack out from centre console and take pin holding cable out and then you can pull the cable down from under the car and leave the drum on and take take the whole unit off.

 

[Grrrrrr]

I dont think u need take box outthe 6 bolts and two propshafts off .As for the handbrake take switch pack out from centre console and take pin holding cable out and then you can pull the cable down from under the car and leave the drum on and take take the whole unit off.

Al says he took the 4 bolts holding the handbrake backplate off. Any idea what he was on about? I'm guessing the lever up in the cab is held on by bolts but I'd have thought the box would be in the way. Your way sounds easier although no sure how easy to get back together afterwards?

 

[ovalandrover]

cable just pushes back up through the hole it came out and put the cotter pin back in dont have to take the hanbrake assembly off

 

[jamesmartin]

Al says he took the 4 bolts holding the handbrake backplate off. Any idea what he was on about? I'm guessing the lever up in the cab is held on by bolts but I'd have thought the box would be in the way. Your way sounds easier although no sure how easy to get back together afterwards?

back plate is held on by 4 bolts once off the whole hand brake can be swung out the way,the lever in the cab is held by 2 you either disconnect cable there or move the hand brake assembly

 

[brianp38dse]

I did the same as Ovalander wit the cable it is easy, do you know an one with a hydraulic motor cycle lift it works very well in the transfer box with a bit of old work top and a block paver it hold the box at the right angle
the same as this one
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hydrauli...337432&hash=item2862942673:g:7EQAAOSwbaxbZxnr

 

[tomcat59alan]

Ah, and @tomcat59alan says: "I released the four bolts in the handbrake backplate and left the cable attached, just tied it all out of the way.". Where are those 4 bolts, Al?

Remove the propshaft and the brake drum and you will see the four bolts which hold the back plate on.you need to remove the cross member as well

 

[DanClarke]

Can you possibly Video/Photograph the whole operation so peeps can learn from it?
Its a far, far better thing that ........ etc. etc.
Besides, if its all good you are a hero, if it all goes to Sh1t you can be an object lesson in "how not to...."

JK, hope it really goes well and you get a stonkingly good result for all your effort.

 

[tomcat59alan]

Remove the propshaft and the brake drum and you will see the four bolts which hold the back plate on.you need to remove the cross member as well

I cannot remember if I had to remove the drive flange to remove the handbrake back plate.check the length of the six bolts that hold the transfer box to the gearbox, on the Classic there are two longer ones that will go in but if you tighten them they will punch through into the gearbox and cause an oil leak.Don't ask how i know . Edited because of bad spelling in case the Scottish editing police are reading if its got through her ignore mode

 

[jamesmartin]

I cannot remember if I had to remove the drive flange to remove the handbrake back plate.check the length of the six bolts that hold the transfer box to the gearbox, on the Classic there are two longer ones that will go in but if you tighten them they will punch through into the gearbox and cause an oil leak.Don't ask jow i know .

you dont have to remove drive flange

 

[tomcat59alan]

TUOTE="jamesmartin, post: 4326343, member: 55036"]you dont have to remove drive flange[/QUOTE]
Thanks Martin I couldn't remember..

 

[tomcat59alan]

Can you possibly Video/Photograph the whole operation so peeps can learn from it?
Its a far, far better thing that ........ etc. etc.
Besides, if its all good you are a hero, if it all goes to Sh1t you can be an object lesson in "how not to...."

JK, hope it really goes well and you get a stonkingly good result for all your effort.

I have a transfer box in the garage and the handbrake assembly I could photograph tomorrow, maybe, everything is such an effort at the moment.

 

[DanClarke]

I have a transfer box in the garage and the handbrake assembly I could photograph tomorrow, maybe, everything is such an effort at the moment.

@tomcat59alan Not you! LOL, how's the recovery going? I hope you are much improved.

 

[tomcat59alan]

@tomcat59alan Not you! LOL, how's the recovery going? I hope you are much improved.

Getting there Dan,, thanks for asking.