The Bl dy thing wont come apart

Clutch was just gone on my 95,300tdi .
Bought the bits ,it was a sunny day today so out came the tools and the plasters at the ready.

As per Haynes i have removed everything as per the manual ,engine hoist attached and ready to remove the last three top fixings to release the engine from the transmission.
My question is this, the nuts as a b stard to remove ,what actual size are these nut ?, seem to be 15mm but have very short shoulders for the socket to fit on ,the previous nuts were swines but they all came off eventually, but how the hell do you get these last three off,hi have lifted the engine, dropped it down until it fouls on the steeringbox,but it wont lower enough to allow me to get on the nuts square to remove,other than remove the props and release the gearbox and trans box so i can lift and pull the whole unit forward,HELP HELP HELP

Due to the amount of force i used on the other nuts i think this is its first clutch 136k on the clock.

Don't use a 'star shaped' sockets as they will round off and cause all sorts of ****ty problems, stick to 1/2" hex socket (not 13mm)and multiple long extensions - then you can access from inside cabin.
Also helps a lot if you drop the box, thus tilting engine to get access..

The lower bolts were all 13mm but the nuts are between 14 & 15mm.
When you say drop the gearbox, do you mean keep all the props connected but just remove the two mountings?

Sorry I'm with you now the nuts on either side of the bellhousing? Yep they're bigger if you haven't got a deep enough hex socket (15mm I recall) I'd try a 15 brake spanner so it doesn't round the edges off

If you're pulling the box apart to fit new clutch don't you need to disconnect props anyway? Once you've disconected the xbar from chassis you can drop the box using engine crane to get better access to top of bellhousing, if that helps

gR@HaM said:

If you're pulling the box apart to fit new clutch don't you need to disconnect props anyway? Once you've disconected the xbar from chassis you can drop the box using engine crane to get better access to top of bellhousing, if that helps

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No engine out is easier for a clutch change. if it's the top bolts on the bellhousing to engine bolts I Think you'll find they're 17MM or are you trying to undo something else??????

Im going the remove the engine route to replace the clutch.

Bolts in the bottom of the bellhousing to engine are 13mm, The nuts that run around the top are 14/15mm but very shallow in depth with a taper so theres not a lot of meat for any socket,but how the hell do you access them when the engine with all mounts removed will not drop any lower than rest on the steering box due to the alloy timing belt casing.
Other than torch the thing any clues!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

STAGJIM said:

Im going the remove the engine route to replace the clutch.

Bolts in the bottom of the bellhousing to engine are 13mm, The nuts that run around the top are 14/15mm but very shallow in depth with a taper so theres not a lot of meat for any socket,but how the hell do you access them when the engine with all mounts removed will not drop any lower than rest on the steering box due to the alloy timing belt casing.
Other than torch the thing any clues!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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Not done a 300 on the 200 they're 17mm (IIRC) ??? but even then I used 2 12" extension bars and reached in over the top of the gearbox.

redhand said:

Not done a 300 on the 200 they're 17mm (IIRC) ??? but even then I used 2 12" extension bars and reached in over the top of the gearbox.

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I find having a Matthew comes in handy anurl

oil dripper said:

I find having a Matthew comes in handy anurl

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Very

redhand said:

No engine out is easier for a clutch change.

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I'll get me coat..

the nuts are deth 15 mm, ,do you think it would help if i dropped off the steering box so the engine could drop lower to allow access to the 3 upper fixings on the bell housing?

It's fiddly but you should definitely be able to get to them from inside the cabin.
Get under the bellhousing and bung on the socket, then add extension bars following the top of the box up as far as the gearstick.
Bobs yer uncle..

Well I have taken a 300 engine and gearbox out in one before today. If you deffo can't get the bolts undo.

sounds like some bellhousings are different to others, the only nuts mine have are on either side (none on the top) all the others being 1/2" inch / 13mm bolts. Although it is an auto

I did mine box out method-to get the top bell housing nuts off I had loads of 1/2" bars joined plus a uj and got to the nuts at least half way down the wagon from underneath-I'm sure mine were 17mm-300 tdi manual

Nothing for it,i will have to purchase another socket set to go with the other three, i will buy 6 sided socket set to try and prevent slippage/rounding off of nuts.
Deff 15mm just checked with another site .

STAGJIM said:

Nothing for it,i will have to purchase another socket set to go with the other three, i will buy 6 sided socket set to try and prevent slippage/rounding off of nuts.
Deff 15mm just checked with another site .

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Exactly what I did mate, well worth it for the sake of a few quid and the time/money saved in the long run. Might as well get the deep sockets

Dunno about autos. On the manuals I've done the bellhousing bolts were all 17mm. One way to improve access to the top ones is to lift the engine a bit then remove the mounts from the block. This allows you to then drop the engine down far enough to get at the bolts easy enough with a long extension.

I need to do my 300 tdi clutch dreading it i need help too so if anyone in surrey wants to lend a hand for beer