TD5 not cranking, but I get a click

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BulletBrindle

Active Member
Posts
105
Location
Worcestershire
Hi. Hopefully someone else has seen this...

My TD5 Defender has always started first time with no delay (apart from when the ECU failed, but that's another story). However, today, it would not crank at all, but I was getting the solenoid click. I managed to jump start it to get me home, and then tried it again, but still just a click.

The previous owner replaced the starter motor, so it's less than 8,000 miles old, and from what I can see, it looks pretty new.

I measured the battery voltage with a multimeter with the engine off, and it was reading around 12.3V. I also have a basic volt meter built into the dash that reads about 0.4V lower than the multimeter. Interestingly, the built in volt meter was only reading around 11.4V on the drive home, whereas I think it normally would read closer to 13V (from memory).

Any ideas what's going on here?

Any tips gratefully received.

Cheers
 
Ok, it doesn't want to jump start, and the battery is at 12.56V when I measure the voltage directly (without the jump leads connected) - I'd have thought that'd be enough to crank it.

Next step is checking out the start motor wiring, I guess. Any pointers on where to start? Disconnect the current wires, clean and reconnect?

I've found the activator wire (I think!), and it seems to be securely connected.

Cheers
 
Ok, it doesn't want to jump start, and the battery is at 12.56V when I measure the voltage directly (without the jump leads connected) - I'd have thought that'd be enough to crank it.

Next step is checking out the start motor wiring, I guess. Any pointers on where to start? Disconnect the current wires, clean and reconnect?

I've found the activator wire (I think!), and it seems to be securely connected.

Cheers
Getting the solenoid to "click" is only half the battle, unless the contacts connect properly once brought together by the solenoid, and there is good voltage across the motor, current won't flow to it.
Do check all the earths from the batt to the bod and the engine.
When I rebuilt my starter motor I discovered that each connection has two nuts on it, the outer ones, connecting the wires were tight, but the inner ones, holding the contacts to the body of the solenoid, were loose. so you could remove the outer ones, the wire connectors etc, then tighten the inner ones up, if necessary.
Don't forget you could connect jump leads directly to the solenoid. but a dodgy batt and/or a dodgy alternator really really won't help.
You need about 12.65 volts at rest and 14+ volts at the batt when the engine is running maybe at a bit over tickover.
 
Today's test involved fully charging the battery, cleaning the contacts and refitting. Same result. Hmm...

Maybe the problem is with the starter itself after all...
 
Can you load test the battery, it is possible to show good voltage but still be bad, how far do the volts drop across the battery when cranking, 10.5 or less means it's shot
Unfortunately I can't load test, but before I charged the battery, I was getting high 11s across the battery when cranking. Also, the battery is pretty new (sub 8k miles and less than 5 years old), so I'd be surprised if it was that
 
I'm going to try and do it without removing the starter from the engine. Apparently it's doable...
As I was having such a **** time getting it off, I too wondered about that, but then a kind member told me how to take it off so I did so. It was then a lot easier to do it on the bench and a lot easier to keep it clean and not drop bits in amongst the gravel.
Do have a read about how to get it off a Disco, it may not be the same on a Defender but it can't be that different I'd a thort.
However I do await correction as nothing is ever obvious on LRs!
Best of luck!
 
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