Squealing from engine, either water pump or fan belt ?

Every week I seem to be doing something on my old S Reg 1.8 petrol Freelander. (I don't know if its a K series or L though)

I have an awful squeak or squeal coming from under the bonnet. Its not the sound that a slipping fan belt makes and I am thinking its the water pump.

Do the bearings of the pump often cause a squeal - The squeal goes faster as I am driving at speed so its pulley / belt related I guess.

Also is it a BIG job to replace the water pump as its quite a cheap part.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Kind regards - Dave

If it's a 1.8 petrol its a k series

Thanks - that's one mystery solved regards series

davidporthcawl said:

Every week I seem to be doing something on my old S Reg 1.8 petrol Freelander. (I don't know if its a K series or L though)

I have an awful squeak or squeal coming from under the bonnet. Its not the sound that a slipping fan belt makes and I am thinking its the water pump.

Do the bearings of the pump often cause a squeal - The squeal goes faster as I am driving at speed so its pulley / belt related I guess.

Also is it a BIG job to replace the water pump as its quite a cheap part.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Kind regards - Dave

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Hi Dave,

This is exactly the issue that I currently have. I've replaced the tensioner and belt and have a loud squeak or squeal coming from the tensioner area.
It is loudest when you start up from cold but after ten minutes or so fades.
I was thinking that our issue here is the water pump or alternator.

Can anyone shed any light for us please?

I have a 2.0l XEDi L-series.

My response relates to the K series 1.8 petrol motor.
Check the obvious first! What condition is the PAS belt in - it could be slipping. Easy and cheap to replace.

Has any work been done in that area recently? i.e. timing belt - tensioner - w'pump?
There is a slight chance it could be the plastic cam belt cover not being seated correctly and chaffing on the belt, Or the crank shaft pulley rubbing on the lower cover.

OR - If it's a manual tensioner it could have been over tensioned - perhaps unlikely.

It's not an enormous job to replace the w'pump, tensioner and cam belt but care must be taken. Only special tool needed is the cam locking device - they are quite cheap. If you're going to do that you may as well pop a new thermostat in too.

Plenty of info' on here and on YouTube.

if the belts look shinny then replace a quick test is to put a little water on them while the engine is running but watch your fingers best way really is to spray a little water on the belts if the squealing stops then it is your belts if it does not then it could be bearing in water pump. hope this helps

bigroo said:

Hi Dave,

This is exactly the issue that I currently have. I've replaced the tensioner and belt and have a loud squeak or squeal coming from the tensioner area.
It is loudest when you start up from cold but after ten minutes or so fades.
I was thinking that our issue here is the water pump or alternator.

Can anyone shed any light for us please?

I have a 2.0l XEDi L-series.

Click to expand...

I'd be very careful with noises like this on the L Series. They are generally bullet proof engines, but there are people on here who's engines have been trashed by the aux/drive belt and/or its tensioner. If the belt is thrown, it wraps itself around the main pulley and this pushes the cam belt off and pistons start hitting valves etc.

If the new tensioner is faulty, replace it.

I'd take the aux/drive belt off and start the engine up to see if the noise stops. It will tell you if its the belt/something its turning or not. Don't run the engine very long like that obviously or you'll get heating problems and only do it when cold.

Hi all - Sorry I haven't been on here in a few weeks so didn't see the replies.

My lovely old landy still squeeks and squeels (my daughter says the freelander whistles because its happy lol )

I don't think its the PAS belt as it squeels when its idling in the drive but I have now plucked up the courage to replace the water pump and timing belt this coming weekend I will keep you all posted.

I have to sort the coolant loss issue first though so just ordered a new expansion tank cap as it leaks in that area after 20 miles.

Gotta love the old girl (The Freelander I mean) she does keep you on your toes lol.

Thanks for the constant help - Dave

Probably because you are loosening water that is why you are getting the sloshing sound and when you bleed it goes away

davidporthcawl said:

Hi all - Sorry I haven't been on here in a few weeks so didn't see the replies.

My lovely old landy still squeeks and squeels (my daughter says the freelander whistles because its happy lol )

I don't think its the PAS belt as it squeels when its idling in the drive but I have now plucked up the courage to replace the water pump and timing belt this coming weekend I will keep you all posted.

I have to sort the coolant loss issue first though so just ordered a new expansion tank cap as it leaks in that area after 20 miles.

Gotta love the old girl (The Freelander I mean) she does keep you on your toes lol.

Thanks for the constant help - Dave

Click to expand...

Carefully examine that coolant bottle too. They craze and crack under the ring-like label and can leak. It's not an expensive part either.

You'll need a 1/4" socket set and I think 6 or 8mm Allen key but not 100% sure. Make sure your 1/4" socket set has a swivel as you'll need it for one of the plastic cover bolts.
You are changing the tensioner too aren't you, it has bearings so silly not to.
Use a little silicon instant gasket to hold the seal on place on the water pump while you manoeuvre it into place. I put a smear all the way round in the channel the seal sits in.
When I changed mine I found the water pump difficult to get off the studs which hold it in position. Found out later one of the studs came away with the pump and I had a pig of a job getting it back in as I had already fitted the new pump and didn't want to disturb it.
Make sure you have the correct cam belt for the tensioner on your car as they are different for the manual and automatic tensioners.
One of these or something similar is well worth investing in as it will have your crank pully bolt out in seconds.
CLARKE CEW1000 1/2 DRIVE ELECTRIC IMPACT WRENCH 450NM TORQUE 1000W | eBay

Other than that take your time and have fun.