Running temperature

So I’ve noticed in the whole week that I’ve owned him so far, Freddie doesn’t run very ‘hot’. Even after a run up the motorway or spirited driving up the lanes he only hovers around 1/3.
I think it crept up to almost half once, when off road and working for an hour.
Is this normal? (TD4 2004)

Normal. Td4 runs cool hence the high power electric heating or diesel fuel burning heater.

Phew. Thanks.
Think mine has the fbh - must check!

Freddie17 said:

Is this normal? (TD4 2004)

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No. The thermostat is stuck open, which is very common on these. The cheapest and quickest way to sort it is to fit the Renault 4/5 in hose thermostat into the top hose.
Once done the temperature gauge will sit solidly at the ½ way mark. You'll also gain a small bit of economy, and have a better heater.

something such as this…?
Do you/can I leave the original one in place - or should it be removed?

How much of a PITA is it to get to the original?

Mine has always been at 1/4 with and without new thermostat.

They all have their personalities!!!

Freddie17 said:

something such as this…?
Do you/can I leave the original one in place - or should it be removed?

How much of a PITA is it to get to the original?

View attachment 283919

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Changing the original thermostat is about 3.5 hours work, and very intensive, the inline stat is about 30 minutes, do you have an Auto or manual TD4, the fitted is different between the two, i would say Auto is a little harder, Nodge will be able to tell you more, manual is just a case of cutting off the original stainless steel band fixed to the engine block side .

It is even a lot easier if you remove the manifold and air ducting & EGR, this would give you chance to cleanout the EGR and manifold along with wiping clean the MAP sensor.
A

1

Use a good triangle file or dremmel
2

3

4

Get a funnel under the joint, to catch any fluid loss which is minimal.
5

unclip the other end of the top hose.
R40
6
FL1
R40
6a
Fl 1
7

7a

Once the hose is removed you can add the gates thermostat i only use gates has i find them more stable.
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Refit the hose back to the car and top up coolant, you can clamp the small hose coming from the Y unit so as to lose very little coolant at all.
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The difference between the Rover 75 (R40) hose and the FL 1hose.
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15

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/td4-thermostat-replacement.353427/#post-4718322
.

Arctic2 said:

Changing the original thermostat is about 3.5 hours work, and very intensive, the inline stat is about 30 minutes, do you have an Auto or manual TD4, the fitted is different between the two, i would say Auto is a little harder, Nodge will be able to tell you more, manual is just a case of cutting off the original stainless steel band fixed to the engine block side .

It is even a lot easier if you remove the manifold and air ducting & EGR, this would give you chance to cleanout the EGR and manifold

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Thanks Arctic - appreciate the assist. Mine is an auto, and I see Nodge has already suggest this route also so I’ll order up the gates and have a go… I was bloody freezing today driving home from shooting!

So I’m certain, which end of the top hose am I putting the new stat? From what I can see of Nodge’s info elsewhere, it goes as (expertly) drawn in my photo below (auto)?
Think I’ll also have a go at cleaning the EGR while I’m there.

Freddie17 said:

From what I can see of Nodge’s info elsewhere, it goes as (expertly) drawn in my photo below (auto)?

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That's exactly it.
I've got a post of mine on here somewhere, showing a fat lump in the hose, a bit like a snake which has eaten too large a meal.

Nodge68 said:

That's exactly it.
I've got a post of mine on here somewhere, showing a fat lump in the hose, a bit like a snake which has eaten too large a meal.

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It was your old I post I found and Arctics that I tried to figure from…!

Seems like a straight forward job (famous last words).
1 small section of hose off
Wrestle for an hour or so inserting stat
Hose back on

Part ordered - will give it a go next weekend.

Thanks Nodge and Arctic - invaluable knowledge

Freddie17 said:

Seems like a straight forward job (famous last words).
1 small section of hose off
Wrestle for an hour or so inserting stat
Hose back on

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You'll definitely be wrestling with it.
I used plumbers silicone grease as lubricant, which worked better than washing up liquid.
A stout section of pipe of suitable diameter is also handy to have to hand.

I’m not googling “what the best lube to use with rubber”, for fear she sees my search history!!!

Freddie17 said:

I’m not googling “what the best lube to use with rubber”, for fear she sees my search history!!!

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It's perfectly innocent.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/11151316...zSZ61dXHdVicpMQiqHWYDdSF4gWj2NNRoCy_QQAvD_BwE

Ordered

Well, I’m calling this one fixed, although I have now seen something that really is tighter than a ducks backside. That was one hell of a battle getting the inline stat into the top pipe! I couldn’t get it in any further (not the first time I’ve said that!)
It ‘just’ sits on the t piece enough to get a clip on to hold it. I might try again to get it in more another day.

Thanks to Nodge and Arctic for the grease tip - the only other tip I can offer is copious amounts of boiling water to soften the pipe a little.

Temp now quickly up to half, and then sitting there consistently - even after a bit of a workout this afternoon on farmland.

I did manage to get mine in slightly more than that, but not much.
The heater will definitely be better with the engine running at normal temperature.

Yep - it was real toasty on the way home!
Thanks for the help

… and don’t ask who the numpty was that dropped the VERY LAST jubilee clip, 2 minutes from the ‘end of job’, down into the engine bay, then had to remove all the lower tray just to make sure a) it was there, and hadn’t stopped somewhere in the engine, and b) retrieve it.

Arrgghhhh!

Freddie17 said:

… and don’t ask who the numpty was that dropped the VERY LAST jubilee clip, 2 minutes from the ‘end of job’, down into the engine bay, then had to remove all the lower tray just to make sure a) it was there, and hadn’t stopped somewhere in the engine, and b) retrieve it.

Arrgghhhh!

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I did the same thing changing the boost control actuator on the wife's VW Eos a couple of weeks back.
I dropped the last bolt, which got stuck between the belly pan and steering rack.
It takes 20 minutes to remove and refit the belly pan, so it added 20 minutes and a grovel on wet tarmac to do a 1 hour job at the top of the engine.