Repaint

I was wondering what an approx cost would be for a defender 90 respray ?

Depends on the quality of finish you want, if you are doing it yourself -or paying someone else?

I would be paying someone else

From research I've done I think you're looking at £1500 + for a decent job but others might say otherwise.
Its only what Ive found out by doing a search

you have to factor in paint kind and prep work needed, obviously metallic will cost more than standard

Thank you. That is ruffly what i thought. I was mainly to get it looking nice and get rid of some rust under bubbling paint.

Can you get such a thing as a touch up spray. Only the bits that need done get done?

it'd probably cost more, making pre faded colours and making it blend fully into the old paintwork

if you just want to touch it up sand it back and then vinyl wrap it, far cheaper then you can do separate panels

CameronW1996 said:

Thank you. That is ruffly what i thought. I was mainly to get it looking nice and get rid of some rust under bubbling paint.

Can you get such a thing as a touch up spray. Only the bits that need done get done?

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you can get just a tart up i used to get my old vans done for £300

chris07 said:

you can get just a tart up i used to get my old vans done for £300

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Might get that done then

I was told roughly £1500 for a half decent job round my way.

If you want a crap job in battleship grey, bring it round lol

I've not long had mine respeayed I paid £800 all in at a local backstreet garage/body shop. The body work on mine was a mess I when I bought it. Im really happy with how it turned out. All my other quotes ranged from 1100-1700. They charge quite abit more for other vehicles it was just because they like working on defenders.... Mad people haha

As others have said, depends on many variables.

Paint colour - standard flat Land Rover blue is going to be much cheaper than Tangiers Orange (which needs a lot of work to get right).
Prep work - how far do you want to go? Just stripping all the easily removable stuff and masking the rest, or a full panels off strip down, glass out, etc?
What condition are your panels in? - is there much in the way of damage (dents, deep scratches, rust, etc) to be removed and rectified?
Extras - are all the bits you take off (lamps, headlight surrounds etc) good to refit to a freshly painted machine, or do you want to spend a bit more on new bits? I've just had my 90 resprayed and I spent around £350 on parts to replace bits that looked ****e.
Quality - You Get What You Pay For is a good rule of thumb with paint jobs. The cheap job sounds good, but is it worth it? You may find the bloke who quotes a 20% higher price does a job that is 100% better quality. Ask to see other examples of their work if you're not sure.

Thank you all for your help and advice. I have uploaded a few photos of the sections i want to fix.

So what would people's advice be to what i should do (how to should get it painted, quality, pre work etc) ?

Bustrucket said:

As others have said, depends on many variables.

Paint colour - standard flat Land Rover blue is going to be much cheaper than Tangiers Orange (which needs a lot of work to get right).
Prep work - how far do you want to go? Just stripping all the easily removable stuff and masking the rest, or a full panels off strip down, glass out, etc?
What condition are your panels in? - is there much in the way of damage (dents, deep scratches, rust, etc) to be removed and rectified?
Extras - are all the bits you take off (lamps, headlight surrounds etc) good to refit to a freshly painted machine, or do you want to spend a bit more on new bits? I've just had my 90 resprayed and I spent around £350 on parts to replace bits that looked ****e.
Quality - You Get What You Pay For is a good rule of thumb with paint jobs. The cheap job sounds good, but is it worth it? You may find the bloke who quotes a 20% higher price does a job that is 100% better quality. Ask to see other examples of their work if you're not sure.

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As you will see from the pictures that is what i want to fix, what would be your advice?

CameronW1996 said:

As you will see from the pictures that is what i want to fix, what would be your advice?

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You need to fix the corrosion first. The white corrosion is bimetallic corrosion, which is steel and aluminium fighting it out. The rust you need to sand back and then depending on how long it takes you to get to good metal, either paint or weld and then paint.

Getting it resprayed may look ok for a while, but then the corrosion will come through again.

Your bulkhead looks borked.

That is almost certainly rusting from the inside out.... Which means there is a large amount of steel to chop out and replace. And that is just the areas under the hinges. what are the footells like? and how about the areas above the flaps below the windscreen gasket?

Have a look at the photos on my link below to see how bulkheads are made, rust and are repaired. Sorry but its unlikely to be a blowover to fix.

Unless you have money to burn, you might be better doing the prep/repairs yourself, and then use rattle cans or gloss roller to paint sections that need it or pay a local bodyshop just to finish off

DIY approach you're probably looking in the £300 area

If you pay someone to do it all, you need to know they've done a thorough prep or it will start to rot and bubble again in about a year

arc said:

Your bulkhead looks borked.

That is almost certainly rusting from the inside out.... Which means there is a large amount of steel to chop out and replace. And that is just the areas under the hinges. what are the footells like? and how about the areas above the flaps below the windscreen gasket?

Have a look at the photos on my link below to see how bulkheads are made, rust and are repaired. Sorry but its unlikely to be a blowover to fix.

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What link?

CameronW1996 said:

As you will see from the pictures that is what i want to fix, what would be your advice?

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I had similar problems with mine (tub cappings rotting, doors fooked, etc). Bulkhead on mine has already been sorted though. I fitted a good quality pair of secondhand doors and a set of galvanised tub cappings (if you're going to go to the hassle of fitting new cappings, make sure the replacements are galvanised as you don't want to do the job again in a few years time). To be honest, get the metalwork sorted and worry about asthetics later. Your bulkhead looks a bit rough - given that the best solution for the cappings is replacement and that requires lifting the roof/upper body sides, you might as well go the whole hog, take the roof, upper sides, windscreen and doors off (will be easier to strip and fix doors off vehicle) and make sure the top of the bulkhead is redone properly and get rid of the rot.

Before you do anything, check EVERYWHERE (especially every visible bit of the bulkhead) for rot/corrosion - if you're going to go to the effort of sorting out the rot and then painting it, you'd be daft not to make sure there's none lurking elsewhere.

Cost? Entirely dependent on parts and who's doing the work. As a guide, before I got to the stage of putting paint on, mine set me back around £350 for a very good pair of doors, galvanised tub cappings and a donor rear door, plus the £300 or so on new parts/exterior trim. I do most work myself so no labour costs.

If you want a cheap job then you could just grind back the rust/corrosion, bodge a load of filler in and paint those bits, but you'll need to do the job again in 6-12 months when either the rot breaks through or the filler falls out, as well as this method not addressing any structural issues with the bulkhead.