Disco 2 Rear Proshaft and ACE roll bar removal

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

Whistler

Member
Posts
98
Location
Devizes, Wiltshire UK
I've got a leaking ACE pipe at the rear of my Discovery 2 that's going to need replacing, so I was planning to drop the rear propshaft and then remove the rear ACE ram/rollbar assembly. This should give me a bit more space to get the ACE pipes out/back in and whilst its all off I can treat and paint that part of the chassis.

Could I draw on the experience of other please ?

1) Whats the best way to drain the ACE - just undo the connections at the block under the sill ? And is there a filling/bleeding procedure when I put it back together ?
2) Is removing the rear prop as easy as it looks (undoing the nuts and bolts) or is there anything else I need to worry about ?
3) Is removing the ACE antiroll bar and ram assembly as simple as undoing the drop links, undoing the pipe banjos and undoing the single clamp bolts each side on the chassis brackets ?

Thanks
 
I can't offer any help with the ACE, but @MJI is currently our ACE ace. The prop shaft should drop with no problems but it might be worth replacing the rubber doughnut on the diff end. Replacing the centering bush can be a bit of a trial. The replacement rubber drive coupler should be a genuine GKN item. New "nylock" nuts are recommended when you replace the prop shaft bolts. I'd definitely check the U/J at the front end for play too, while you've got it off the vehicle.
 
Draining is not that easy, it pours out everywhere

I suggest that you just let it drain out from pipe fittings, rear, just unbolt drop links, pipes and two clamps.

2m hoses much easier to bolt up!
 
Thanks brian47 and MJI !

When you sat "2m hoses much easier to bolt up" - what do you mean ? I've just had heart failure at the price of the rear ACE hoses - is there an alternative ? Seems something made out of Kunifer might make more sense seeing as the steel ones rust so bad. Would a hydraulics shop be able to make something up I wonder ?
I was also warned not to try to remove the existing pipes from the block as they won't come out - is that right ?
 
Thanks brian47 and MJI !

When you sat "2m hoses much easier to bolt up" - what do you mean ? I've just had heart failure at the price of the rear ACE hoses - is there an alternative ? Seems something made out of Kunifer might make more sense seeing as the steel ones rust so bad. Would a hydraulics shop be able to make something up I wonder ?
I was also warned not to try to remove the existing pipes from the block as they won't come out - is that right ?

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/martins-ace-thread.305773/
 
Can't remember what I paid for my replacement pipes, think I must have gone for OEM as I don't remember remortgaging! Replacement was ok, just undid the cap nuts on the ram and caught spilled fluid. Need to get new collets, etc., for block end. All straight forward. Only real issue was lack of space underneath on driveway making it quite difficult to feed new pipes into position. Removing prop and dropping ARB would give more room.
Prop is as already described, unbolt and fit new donut and spigit bush bearing. The bush is not so easy to get out. I used my slide hammer and internal race puller. UJ if it's showing any sign of wear, re-grease at least.
Dropping the ACE requires undoing the drop links from the chassis. You will need to hold the end of the link with a torx bit, I forget size, and get your spanner on the nut. If you're lucky, it will turn and come off, if not, angle grinder job, so best plan in replacing the links as well. Mehl HD ones are good (JGS4x4 have these). If you're going to drop it or remove it, best replace the 2 bushes that the ARB sits in, these are cheap enough.
Have fun!
 
UJ if it's showing any sign of wear, re-grease at least.
On the point of re-greasing, don't forget to do the sliding joint too. You'll probably have to remove the little grub screw and replace it with a grease nipple. The "book" recommends that you replace the grub screw after re-greasing but I've left nipples in place on both of my front and rear prop shafts with no trouble at all, but they were the lowest profile types I could find.
I also replaced the grease nipples on both the front and rear U/Js for slightly longer ones to make connecting a grease gun very much easier while the prop shafts are in situ.
 
Thanks ! So the old ACE pipes came out of the block OK and the new ones went in OK with new collets ? That makes me more optimistic, the person I spoke indicated the old pipes don't come out, so I was considering cutting and joining the new pipes to the stubs of the old. Sounds like that's not going to be necessary ?
I'll give the prop a good grease as well, that's excellent advice !
 
I find that if you follow the workshop manual instructions, most things work out as described. However, corrosion and previous owners can cause you big problems. The drop links for example, I thought would need to be cut off. I concluded this because that's what everyone said they had to do in their write ups. When I came to remove mine, I very nearly just went in with my grinder, but I decided to find a torx bit and apply a liberal amount of penetrating fluid, and cleaned up the thread with a wire brush. They came off no bother. Tight yes, but came undone. The pipes in the ACE valve block was another. Scare stories and all rest, but when it came to it, it came undone fine.
I think that half the time, some people go in without either researching how to, or doing any preparation. They then suffer the consequeces of stripped threads, sheared off bolts, rounded nuts, etc. etc. That's not to say that you won't encounter these problems or find yours is seized solid. Just be aware that there is a lot of poor advice as well as sound advice. There is also a hell of a lot of repeated and passed on bull from people who have never done the jobs themselves, but pass on misinformation they have read.

You'll probably come back on here now complaining to me how the pipes were seized solid and had to cut off the block with a chain saw! Lol
 
I would never complain about the advice I get on this forum (unless it was intentionally misleading of course), its a godsend :) Owning a Land Rover need not be TOO painful if you have access to the right information and advice. And a good selection of tools of course :) And a fair bit of cash every now and again :)
 
The spigot bush in the end of the prop can be a PITA, but a bit of bread will solve the problem! :)

There are vids on the tube of you to explain, but essentially, force bread into the bush with a drift the right size, and the bush will come out - it's about the best use for white bread I know :D
 
The principle is to use a non compressible liquid (hydraulics) to push the spigot out. Grease is a better choice. Bread has lots of air in it that has to be pressed out first before it resists further compression. I've seen toilet paper used too. Basically all these are variations on the theme and trying to compensate for a loose fitting drift that isn't providing enough compressive force by allowing the liquid to squeeze out.
 
Just a quick update - the prop came off with no problems, and everything seems in good order - looks like its been greased and looked after. The ARB/ACE all came off, but with a couple of issues. The head of the bolt on the upper side of the outrigger that holds the rear ACE pipe clamp had to be filed off as it had rusted to a round stump. That was a pain but it eventually came off. The rear drop links needed care to avoid breaking out the grinder - undo as far as possible, then do back up, wire brush threads, apply penetrating oil, undo a bit further and keep repeating until they undo fully. As I have to replace the rear ACE pipes anyway, I cut them about 5 inches away from the block (was also getting fed up with dripping ACE oil everywhere). After removing the clamp and collets from the block, the top pipe pulled out with a small amount of assistance, the bottom pipe initially came out about 3mm then was tight, so needed some moles and a hammer to gently persuade it out. Getting the pipes out from under the car was a Krypton challenge, and resulted in more ACE oil over me and the floor. Then I was called in for din-dins, so will attempt to remove the inserts from the block this evening and will inspect the ports on the block for corrosion. The hunt for replacement pipes is on, I assume I should avoid Britpart and Bearmach offerings and stick to genuine LR ?
 
The hunt for replacement pipes is on, I assume I should avoid Britpart and Bearmach offerings and stick to genuine LR ?

MJI's advice in post #3 was, I think, to have 2M long flexi hoses made up .... is that right @MJI ? ;)

If so, then your local hydraulics place can do it, or you might find a local mobile outfit that will make them onsite - think "pertek" or similar :)
 
MJI's advice in post #3 was, I think, to have 2M long flexi hoses made up .... is that right @MJI ? ;)

If so, then your local hydraulics place can do it, or you might find a local mobile outfit that will make them onsite - think "pertek" or similar :)

Yes, but block needs machining. But if your pipes are dodgy cheapest option.

Oh and 2m the case is VERY important with SI units.

Y is 100 000 000 000 000 000 000 000 000 000 000 000 000 000 000 000 bigger than y (I think I have the right number of 0)
 
Upgrading as per MJI's post would be my preference but I suppose I'm a bit worried about taking the front pipes off (which appear perfectly good) and then trying to find (a) a decent local machine shop to machine the block that doesn't want hundreds of pounds set up time, and then (b) finding a reliable hydraulics supplier that doesn't want a fortune for doing a custom job to make up the lines to the right quality/length. My experience of local trades so far in this area has not been that great, and the little machine shops that used to care about and thrive on this type of job seem to have closed when the owners retired. I'd happily pay out what I'm expecting to pay for new rear pipes plus a bit if I could get the whole upgrade supplied ready to fit !
 
Buy a block off Ebay get it converted then swap over

As to front pump pair, just use compression fittings off the block and cut off that horrible flange.
 
MJI - spurred on by the posts above I have done a bit of research and initially not good - first price was £42 per metre, per line, for custom hydraulic lines locally - plus VAT ! So 4 x 2 x £42 plus 2 x £42 , plus VAT then the machining on top. But have now got details of a local machine shop, "old school" father and son outfit who were really helpful and now also have a lead on sensibly priced hydraulic lines. So I think I will take the plunge and go the upgrade route.

Were you happy with the lengths you quoted in the post you linked above ? And do you have any pics of the finished block and also how you routed the lines ? I see you mentioned one was rubbing - did you sort that ?

Thanks :)
 
Back
Top