Rear axle out of alignment (polybush replacement time?)

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fishsponge said:
Thanks for that! :)

Presumably, those are the nuts and bolts for attaching the trail arm to the chassis?

Do you reckon it's a good idea to replace the fat nut on the end and the three bolts holding the triangular bush plate to the chassis?

Also, they have "Genuine" for £1.24 and OEM for £0.44. OEM stands for Original Equipment Manufacturer, as far as I know, so isn't that genuine as well?!? what's the difference?
Click to expand...

Those are the bolts that go through the bush at the axle end.

Aye it's best to replace the "fat" nut at the other end....

NY120041L NYLOC NUT M20 | shop | www.lrseries.com | L. R. Series

and if ye want to replace the nuts and bolts that hold the triangular plate on....

FS110301L FLANGED HEAD BOLT M10 X 30 | shop | www.lrseries.com | L. R. Series

and

NY110047L NUT NYLOC M10 | shop | www.lrseries.com | L. R. Series


Usually ah just take mine into the local ironmongers (not B&Q,etc) and ask them to match them;)
 
Oh, decisions, decisions... do I go Genuine or OEM? (I don't know what the difference is) and do I spend nearly £10 on two genuine fat nuts, or nearly £1 on two "Replacement" fat nuts??
 
oem is the same as genuine ,reuse large nuts never fit non genuine bushes but you dont have to buy geniune from lr bearmach/britpart do genuine as well britpart yellow bushes or original poly bush are the best for home fitting
 
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fishsponge said:
OK, so "OEM" and "Genuine" is the same thing...

If that's the case, though, why do lrseries.com have this: BH610321L BOLT 5/8 X 4 HEX HEAD | Discovery 1 1989-1998: Suspension: Fixings | shop | www.lrseries.com | L. R. Series

Genuine is £2.99, OEM is £1.79. If they are the same thing, is the pricing a mistake?

And presumably, reusing the large nut is recommended because it definitely fits the end of the arm, whereas a new nut may not fit quite right??
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genuine = Landrover part

OEM = Original Equipment Manufacturer

i.e. landrover don't make the bolts they buy them in and stick them in their own bag

to be honest they are only 5/8" x 4" high tensile hex bolts....... any fixings place will do them.... and most likely for less
 
ah, ok... so OEM is *exactly* the same, just without the Land Rover badge stuck on it. OEM is therefore the best I should ever buy, unless I'm so rich I want peace of mind that the LR sticker gives me!

And you're right - any high tensile equivalent should be fine. While I'm up at my local garage tomorrow having him loosen and re-tighten the bolts that I'm stuck on, I think i'll ask him to sell me replacements!

So... should I replace the fat nut or not? I think it really doesn't matter, but one person has said replace it, and another has said don't... and I'm too inexperienced at the moment to know if there's any reason for either suggestion!
 
fishsponge said:
ah, ok... so OEM is *exactly* the same, just without the Land Rover badge stuck on it. OEM is therefore the best I should ever buy, unless I'm so rich I want peace of mind that the LR sticker gives me!

And you're right - any high tensile equivalent should be fine. While I'm up at my local garage tomorrow having him loosen and re-tighten the bolts that I'm stuck on, I think i'll ask him to sell me replacements!

So... should I replace the fat nut or not? I think it really doesn't matter, but one person has said replace it, and another has said don't... and I'm too inexperienced at the moment to know if there's any reason for either suggestion!
Click to expand...
If you think that it doesn't really matter replacing a nyloc nut... then so be it! After all, the more ye use it the less the nylon / plastic bit is effective.... your choice.
Surely with your motorbike mechanical skills and workin' on steam engines, ye might've knew about this kinda stuff:confused::confused:
 
fishsponge said:
ah, ok... so OEM is *exactly* the same, just without the Land Rover badge stuck on it. OEM is therefore the best I should ever buy, unless I'm so rich I want peace of mind that the LR sticker gives me!

And you're right - any high tensile equivalent should be fine. While I'm up at my local garage tomorrow having him loosen and re-tighten the bolts that I'm stuck on, I think i'll ask him to sell me replacements!

So... should I replace the fat nut or not? I think it really doesn't matter, but one person has said replace it, and another has said don't... and I'm too inexperienced at the moment to know if there's any reason for either suggestion!
Click to expand...

your replacing the radius arm rear bushes yes?

as the 'fat nut' is a nylock it should be replaced as a matter of course as nylock nuts are designed as a one use nut, as for the others it is wise to replace them,

when i work on my suspension i loosen all of the nuts and bolts BEFORE lifting the vehicle this saves applying too much force to the rased vehicle therefore minimising the risk of knocking it off the stands,


also i noticed you said you put one stand under the axle and one under the chassis...... i would advise against this as it may lead to nearly 2 tons of landrover trying to kill you, if you are working on the suspension ALWAYS have both stands under the chassis!
 
bustersbus said:
If you think that it doesn't really matter replacing a nyloc nut... then so be it! After all, the more ye use it the less the nylon / plastic bit is effective.... your choice.
Surely with your motorbike mechanical skills and workin' on steam engines, ye might've knew about this kinda stuff:confused::confused:
Click to expand...

My motorbike doesn't have any nyloc nuts (it's from 1966) and I've only been working on steam engines for just over a month!

I only have a couple of years of self-taught mechanical skills anyway and it's all on really old stuff... a moderately different way of thinking *sometimes*...

Anyway, my instinct is to replace anything "consumable" (such as nyloc nuts), but there could be some reason against it in this instance for all I know! :D

I think I'll replace everything...
 
fishsponge said:
My motorbike doesn't have any nyloc nuts (it's from 1966) and I've only been working on steam engines for just over a month!

I only have a couple of years of self-taught mechanical skills anyway and it's all on really old stuff... a moderately different way of thinking *sometimes*...

Anyway, my instinct is to replace anything "consumable" (such as nyloc nuts), but there could be some reason against it in this instance for all I know! :D

I think I'll replace everything...
Click to expand...

My bike has some nylocs on it and it's from 1953... ok they me be not original but ah'm not that sort of guy;)
Ah'm sure ah said about replacing nuts and bolts etc pretty much at the start of this thread, but you seemed to have missed that along with posting the link to doin' the job the first time.
Ah think ah'll bow out now and leave you in the hands of somebody else that you might listen to.... laters;)
 
G-man said:
your replacing the radius arm rear bushes yes?

as the 'fat nut' is a nylock it should be replaced as a matter of course as nylock nuts are designed as a one use nut, as for the others it is wise to replace them,

when i work on my suspension i loosen all of the nuts and bolts BEFORE lifting the vehicle this saves applying too much force to the rased vehicle therefore minimising the risk of knocking it off the stands,


also i noticed you said you put one stand under the axle and one under the chassis...... i would advise against this as it may lead to nearly 2 tons of landrover trying to kill you, if you are working on the suspension ALWAYS have both stands under the chassis!
Click to expand...
Not quite true, In my link ah said ah removed the wheel.... hence the axle stand under the axle. Also. by working on one side at a time....;):D
 
bustersbus said:
My bike has some nylocs on it and it's from 1953... ok they me be not original but ah'm not that sort of guy;)
Ah'm sure ah said about replacing nuts and bolts etc pretty much at the start of this thread, but you seemed to have missed that along with posting the link to doin' the job the first time.
Ah think ah'll bow out now and leave you in the hands of somebody else that you might listen to.... laters;)
Click to expand...

I have been reading your posts... at least I thought I had :doh:

I have read your post on doing the job (fantastic, btw) & I did read your thing about replacing nuts & bolts, but then jamesmartin said "reuse large nuts"... wanted to know reasons for both!

Anyway... I have been listening (reading!) and you've been a great help!! :D
 
we replace any bolt thats worn or damaged ,often axle to arm bolts can become worn were bush has rubbed on bolt,but if okay reuse .nylocs can be used several times ive fitted thousands of those nuts never had a problem ,also same nut used on t/box drive flanges, you can always renew if you want to but then where do you stop. locktite or something similar is good for any nut or bolt you want to ensure stays tight , also some bolts on vehicle are not standard as in the lenght of non threaded part which has a larger diameter to give good fit,also standard bolts are 8.8 but many bolts on drive /suspension are 10.9 (tensil strength) marked on end of bolt
 
right... i've given up! that's not something i normally say, but 13 years has taken it's toll on the nuts and bolts holding the trail arms to the vehicle, The garage managed to unsieze the one I was having trouble with (only just though!), so I took it home and promptly failed to get any of the three nuts that hold the bush to the chassis undone. They need to be cut off, I reckon.

So... i'm going to buy the nuts and bolts (OEM where possible, Genuine otherwise) as per bustersbus' links and hand it all to my garage on 12 January, where it's now booked in. :(

I may tackle it again in the mean time (i'll certain keep soaking the bolts in WD40), but I suspect I won't get anywhere looking at the state the nuts are in!

Anyway... one more question... and it's a question of "how far do I take it"... as far as I know, the bushes at the axle end are fine. Should I replace them anyway? presumably it's not a big deal because i'll be able to undo the brand new bolts relatively easily and replace those another day.

I know about needing a press for genuine ones, but if the nuts & bolts are new, replacing them should take no more than 15 minutes each...
 
jamesmartin said:
we replace any bolt thats worn or damaged ,often axle to arm bolts can become worn were bush has rubbed on bolt,but if okay reuse .nylocs can be used several times ive fitted thousands of those nuts never had a problem ,also same nut used on t/box drive flanges, you can always renew if you want to but then where do you stop. locktite or something similar is good for any nut or bolt you want to ensure stays tight , also some bolts on vehicle are not standard as in the lenght of non threaded part which has a larger diameter to give good fit,also standard bolts are 8.8 but many bolts on drive /suspension are 10.9 (tensil strength) marked on end of bolt
Click to expand...

Just out of interest, is this your own motor you're talkin' about or somebody elses?
If it were my own motor, ah'd want what was right and not have to worry if that nyloc had been used a few times before!
Where do ye stop... when ye're completley happy that the job is done right and new fasteners are in place!
If ye work for a firm that's punting out fleet motors then it's ok ah suppose to stick old stuff back in... might even get return business!
As far as ah'm concerned.. if it's my motor then ah want it to be right seein' as ah'm the one that's driving the thing. And it's not just for my safety.. it's for everybody else that uses the road!;)
 
right... so i'm about to order the following:

2x BH610321L BOLT 5/8 X 4 HEX HEAD
Brand New (Genuine) £2.99

2x NY610041L NYLOC NUT
Brand New (Genuine) £1.24

2x NY120041L NYLOC NUT M20
Brand New (Genuine) £4.14

6x FS110301L FLANGED HEAD BOLT M10 X 30
Brand New (Genuine) £1.39

6x NY110047L NUT NYLOC M10
Brand New (Genuine) £0.39

GRAND TOTAL: 27.42 + 6.95 (postage) + 6.01 (VAT) = £40.38

Sounds like a lot of money for a few nuts and bolts to me... although i've never bought vehicle-grade nuts and bolts.

Does £40.38 sound reasonable for what I'm buying or will I definitely get a better deal at my local indy LR dealer?? I could phone him for comparison, but he's not gonna like me asking about 2 of these bolts, 6 of those nuts etc...

lrseries do have some nuts and bolts listed as "Replacement" instead of "Genuine", but I don't want those. I originally chose "OEM" rather than "Genuine", but in the shopping cart they then come up as "Replacement" as well, so my only option from lrseries, at least, is to go all genuine.

what are your gut feelings??
 
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ok, ok... my last post was too long, so i'll make it shorter!

Does £40.38 sound like a lot of money for a set of new nuts & bolts to do left & right rear trail arm bush renewal?

The bushes are already bought, so the £40.38 is for nuts and bolts ONLY!

Sounds like a lot of money to me, but i've never bought car-grade nuts & bolts before, so don't know what i should be paying, really...
 
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