Range Rover Classic 1983 Rolling Restoration

Will be putting all my progress on here, will hopefully poke away at it over the course of a year....

3.5v8 on dedicated LPG
Plan is to remove the two lpg tanks in the original fuel tank location, install a fuel tank, and put an lpg tank in the boot so I can run it dual fuel.....I do like the idea of lpg, and this engine has been rebuilt with a sports cam and is a lovely car to drive, so I wouldn't mind not having to worry about fuel so much....

From there I will restore the interior, recovering just about everything, my dad is an upholsterer so should be able to save a bit there!

Suspension mods are being planned out atm, nothing too serious, but I do want to get a lot more flex out of the front...

Anyway today I did a full oil change, Engine, Gearbox, Transfer case, and Diffs....just so I know what I'm dealing with!
All the oils were surprisingly good, no real presence of metal, and the diff oil wasnt white like my series was....

Quick explore around the foot wells found the worst of the rust quickly enough!

I'm not too stressed as it looks pretty straight forward to repair, what ****es me off is the last guy who decided that spewing weld all over some plate and not coating it was a repair!!?

Also can anyone reccomend tips for sealing up the typical windscreen leak?

But that's all I had time for today, more to come!!

Nice project! I am playing about with a defender that has same - patched in metal, no paint on top and it rusted instantly. You may want to have a dig around the pillar post bottoms too.

That's handy what your dad does - would like to see what you both come up with.

Good luck

Glad to hear of your project, all Classics should be saved if at all practical.
Following a bad experience years ago I won't touch LPG but at least the 3.5 shouldn't suffer the dreaded slipped liner problem.

Thanks I think I'll need a bit of luck... the rear looks ok at this point....more stupid repairs with no proper coating though......

And yep I will be having a good look in the pillars, will chop a decent amount off the bottom I think, and weld some more in once I've worked out the leaks!

resto_d1 said:

Nice project! I am playing about with a defender that has same - patched in metal, no paint on top and it rusted instantly. You may want to have a dig around the pillar post bottoms too.

That's handy what your dad does - would like to see what you both come up with.

Good luck

Click to expand...

Trailstar said:

Thanks I think I'll need a bit of luck... the rear looks ok at this point....more stupid repairs with no proper coating though......

And yep I will be having a good look in the pillars, will chop a decent amount off the bottom I think, and weld some more in once I've worked out the leaks!

Click to expand...

The rear can't be worse than mine. I'd bet on it lol. Keep us updated with pics!

Nice looking RRC i'd be inclined to run it on petrol though..

And are those Wolfrace wheels?

resto_d1 said:

The rear can't be worse than mine. I'd bet on it lol. Keep us updated with pics!

Click to expand...

Haha yeah that's true... i have to say your build thread is incredibly helpful when it comes to doing rust repairs!
Will do, I want to document this as much as possible!

Henry_b said:

Nice looking RRC i'd be inclined to run it on petrol though..

And are those Wolfrace wheels?

Click to expand...

Yeah I'm in two minds about the lpg as well, one part of me loves it because I can drive it like I stole it and not worry about fuel costs.....the other part knows full well it will catch up with me....
I think dual fuel is the best option, and keep the upper cylinder lubricant topped up!!

Not too sure, a couple of guys have called them Turbo Rims but that's a bit vague.... and ideas? Pretty sure they arent wolf race...

They do resemble a turbine.

3.5EFi. Been on LPG for years. BLOS gas carb. Petrol system still operative.
Top end overhaul last year - camshaft etc - & the valves were in excellent condition as were the bores.

Ratae said:

3.5EFi. Been on LPG for years. BLOS gas carb. Petrol system still operative.
Top end overhaul last year - camshaft etc - & the valves were in excellent condition as were the bores.

Click to expand...

If you are worried about the top end then Prins autogas in Belgium use this stuff, it was recommended to me when I got them to service my 3.9 V8 Discovery years ago.

Look on the Prins website and they have metering kits and everything you would need for installation.

I was curious as to what I was going to find with some of the stories & sales pitches I've seen over the years.
IIRC I fitted the LPG system around 20 years ago at a time I was doing around 10k miles a year. Gas ring initially, replaced with the BLOS.
Valves & seats in excellent condition, quick clean up with fine paste by hand operated sucker-on-a-stick was all that was needed.

Well only a time for a quick clean out last night but got a bit more done....

Used tin snips to attack some of the rust as it was getting a bit late to whip out a grinder


Hopefully I can get onto everything with a grinder tonight and get it ready for welding...

Ratae said:

3.5EFi. Been on LPG for years. BLOS gas carb. Petrol system still operative.
Top end overhaul last year - camshaft etc - & the valves were in excellent condition as were the bores.

Click to expand...

Ok, first lpg car so I dont have a clue but have heard that system mentioned before....mine is set up with the morris upper cylinder lubricant system and a doser....?

As said, I fitted a BLOS to mine (86 RRC 3.5EFi) some years ago to replace the gas ring that was on it before. Much nicer to drive & instantly cured a tendency to stall at low throttle manouevering that was present with the gas ring.
This is the ebay ad. Scroll down & you'll see a pic of it on a 3.9 RRC. Mine's mounted the same way.https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BLOS-Pro...nt-Performance-and-Economy-LOOK-/323482429502
Quite a bit of info on here: https://fuelsforum.rasoenterprises.com/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=1009

I've not used one of the lubricators.

Arches don't look to bad do they! I didn't notice your location and then as soon as I saw your picture I thought that place looks nice and doesn't look British and saw you were NZ.

Those little kick plate things along the side will be a trap - I'd pull them up and check underneath for sure.

So far it's not looking too rusty. Watching this with interest. Have a soft spot for RRC.

resto_d1 said:

Arches don't look to bad do they! I didn't notice your location and then as soon as I saw your picture I thought that place looks nice and doesn't look British and saw you were NZ.

Those little kick plate things along the side will be a trap - I'd pull them up and check underneath for sure.

So far it's not looking too rusty. Watching this with interest. Have a soft spot for RRC.

Click to expand...

Haha ok, yeah south island, Dunedin....

No the arches are ok I guess...the left side 1 had a big section or rust around what I'm thinking is the seatbelt mount?
One of the previous owners has done a couple of repairs....

But it's all looking pretty tidy compared to what I expected!!
Sorry only small updates, have got limited time to be grinding because the sheds a bit close to the neighbors house...

Ratae said:

As said, I fitted a BLOS to mine (86 RRC 3.5EFi) some years ago to replace the gas ring that was on it before. Much nicer to drive & instantly cured a tendency to stall at low throttle manouevering that was present with the gas ring.
This is the ebay ad. Scroll down & you'll see a pic of it on a 3.9 RRC. Mine's mounted the same way.https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BLOS-Pro...nt-Performance-and-Economy-LOOK-/323482429502
Quite a bit of info on here: https://fuelsforum.rasoenterprises.com/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=1009

I've not used one of the lubricators.

Click to expand...

Ok I'll definitely be checking it out, I want to convert this to dual fuel if possible so I'm figuring that would be the best option or not?

Your pics do show the seat belts mounts. The plate that the nut is welded to is welded to the wheel side of the arch & strengthens the mount. Would have been better if LR had sealed all round it instead of making a rust trap!
I've done both of mine.

No experience of BLOS on a carbed motor but I'd suggest it might be the best option for an EFi if you didn't want to go for a sequential injected system.

Ok yeah that makes sense....I just tapped mine out with a hammer after grinding away for a bit....will definitely be doing the other side too and sealing them up so they dont act as a rust trap!!....

Yep ok, will speak to the guys that did the conversion on mine originally and see what they say....