Prop Bearings Question

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

Grayo

Active Member
Posts
714
Location
Pontypridd, South Wales
Hi All,

I plan on changing my prop bearings soon as one of them is making a noise. Both bearings were changed 15 months ago. I watched the guy do this job so am pretty confident I can do it myself. The question is what size is the long reach socket needed to go over the splines on the shaft to tap the new bearing back on.

Thanks

Grayo
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the video Paul, just watched it. He didn't say what size socket was used but I can take one of the bearings with me when I go to get one and match it up.

I didn't like the idea of hitting the UV joint with the lump hammer thou lol. I've got a feeling that once the bolt is undone slightly the "U" shaped washer should lift out then if a cold chisel is placed between the head of the nut and the UV joint and gently tapped this should force the joint to split. Not sure even if the bolt and tabbed washer will go through the hole without undoing the nut compleatly, it looks like it will.
 
The approx. diameter of the bearing journal on each end of the VCU is 30mm. A deep impact socket or a short length (6" would be plenty) of 1 1/4" BSP tube should do the trick. Alternatively, you could start the bearing on it's journal with a socket and tap it home using a soft-say Brass etc.-drift, located on the INNER race only. Put a smear of oil/grease on the shaft beforehand. The bearings are not a mega tight fit on the shaft.
How do I know this......I have a recon. VCU from Bell Eng. in the garage which arrived yesterday, and only an hour ago I fitted the new bearing assemblies to it in readiness for swapping the VCU over next week !!
 
The approx. diameter of the bearing journal on each end of the VCU is 30mm. A deep impact socket or a short length (6" would be plenty) of 1 1/4" BSP tube should do the trick. Alternatively, you could start the bearing on it's journal with a socket and tap it home using a soft-say Brass etc.-drift, located on the INNER race only. Put a smear of oil/grease on the shaft beforehand. The bearings are not a mega tight fit on the shaft.
How do I know this......I have a recon. VCU from Bell Eng. in the garage which arrived yesterday, and only an hour ago I fitted the new bearing assemblies to it in readiness for swapping the VCU over next week !!

That's great thanks very much. Much appreciated, Grayo
 
Just had another look, he just say's tap this on with a socket but didn't say size LOL. 30mm it is thou. Thanks to all for the replies.

Grayo

No seriously, he does say the size. Maybe it's because I'm a Londoner (There's a song there I reckon) that I can hear and understand it when he mentions it.

I've got a little shopping list together as a result of watching the video.

1. Paint Pen
2. Air Tools

:D
 
No seriously, he does say the size. Maybe it's because I'm a Londoner (There's a song there I reckon) that I can hear and understand it when he mentions it.

I've got a little shopping list together as a result of watching the video.

1. Paint Pen
2. Air Tools

:D


My apologies, he did say 30mm lol. I put a pair of head phones on to hear it more clearly lol. Thanks for that.

Already got the air tools just need to get a marker. Do you think the bolt need's to come right out ??? I think with the "U" washer removed the bolt looks like it will go through the hole ???.

Cheers

Grayo
 
My apologies, he did say 30mm lol. I put a pair of head phones on to hear it more clearly lol. Thanks for that.

Already got the air tools just need to get a marker. Do you think the bolt need's to come right out ??? I think with the "U" washer removed the bolt looks like it will go through the hole ???.

Cheers

Grayo

No idea. I wouldn't have thought he'd have gone to the trouble of taking the bolt right out if he didn't have to. Also, he needed the bolt out to mark the prop. shaft and spline position before he separated it.

On balance then, I'd say; yes it does have to come out.
 
No idea. I wouldn't have thought he'd have gone to the trouble of taking the bolt right out if he didn't have to. Also, he needed the bolt out to mark the prop. shaft and spline position before he separated it.

On balance then, I'd say; yes it does have to come out.

Ok first to find out let the other know lol, I'll be doing mine next week.
 
Yes Grayo a drift between the bolt head and the universal joint is the best way have seen that done elsewhere can't remember tho agree with you about braying the crap out of the uni joint a big no no in my book and you should also mark the position of the bearing carriers to make sure the go back on square or you will have problems later on

Paul
 
Yes Grayo a drift between the bolt head and the universal joint is the best way have seen that done elsewhere can't remember tho agree with you about braying the crap out of the uni joint a big no no in my book and you should also mark the position of the bearing carriers to make sure the go back on square or you will have problems later on

Paul

Hi Paul,

Yes your right, I won't be hitting seven sorts out of the uni joint. Re the bearing carriers marking, thats what the guy did last time 15 months ago when I had them replaced then. When I get it over the pit I can have a good look and work it out from there.
 
Hope everything goes smooth and post pics everyone likes pics the job seems daunting but the more you read and the more vids and pics you see it looks almost very easy ( famous last words ) even to the timid amateur but saves a lot of money you don't need to spend

Paul
 
I'm all for saving a bit of money, I think the last time it cost me around the £300 mark, including parts. I have just paid £36.50 for the GKN, ones so here's hoping lol.
 
Ouch how much a friend at work has just had his bearings replaced for just a tad over £130 inc parts but not sure what make bearings he got. His is a 54 plate but very low mileage my good lady's is a 55 plate with 97,000 on the clock same bearings and VCU so possibly my turn to get underneath and get the hands dirty very soon
 
Back
Top