Nuther new noise

Just got to work. New noise on the way in. Squeaky with the occasional grind. Seems to be under the seatbox.
Oh bum. Please god not the gearbox.

u/j

Due to the very descriptive noises of the issue.
Were you sitting on your big fat wallet?.

J

Possibly a UJ or something round the prop shaft as there was also an intermittent ticking. Thought for one moment the fan belt. I’ll have a stab around it Thursday. Everything continued to work for the final half mile into work.
Let’s hope it starts when I finish at midnight.

marjon said:

Due to the very descriptive noises of the issue.
Were you sitting on your big fat wallet?.

J

Click to expand...

Don’t be daft. That’s in the Securicore van behind.

Think I’ve cracked it.

rebuilt the hub recently to test the ball housing torque. Now did I put some one shot back in it

Could ask the mouse working on the grinding wheel to check around.

Had a look today. The sun came out and the frost disappeared so in I went.
squirted some one shot in the ball housings, greased the shaft and found at least one source of the noise. The shaft gaiter had let loose and was flapping around. Another noise I’d been ignoring for several months ‘a clonk on braking’ was also remedied by tightening down the U bolts on the front axle. Boy was it loose
Ordered new U bolts and a gaiter so yet another job half finished

Bobsticle said:

Had a look today. The sun came out and the frost disappeared so in I went.
squirted some one shot in the ball housings, greased the shaft and found at least one source of the noise. The shaft gaiter had let loose and was flapping around. Another noise I’d been ignoring for several months ‘a clonk on braking’ was also remedied by tightening down the U bolts on the front axle. Boy was it loose
Ordered new U bolts and a gaiter so yet another job half finished

Click to expand...

After my rebuild I had a clonk on tight bends. Sounded like a spanner inside the back chassis rails. Finally got under to check and I hadn't tightened any of the axle/spring U bolts. Not even finger tight. Sailed through an MoT though.

boguing said:

After my rebuild I had a clonk on tight bends. Sounded like a spanner inside the back chassis rails. Finally got under to check and I hadn't tightened any of the axle/spring U bolts. Not even finger tight. Sailed through an MoT though.

Click to expand...

Wonder what made mine loose
I have got a new set on their way just in case the old ones have stretched or the locking nuts are goosed.

I think I’ve opened another can of worms
The U bolts just arrived. One of them is slightly different to the others. The seller assures me that’s for the one nearest the diff bulge. Not convinced
The other issue may be I have diabolic springs and I presume these are thinner than standard so the threads might not be long enough to pinch the springs.
Shims? Re tap a bit longer? Don’t even know the thread size

Can’t go out and have a look as waiting for a parcel and the second I move……

No differences for each side mentioned in my bible.

A few washers

Col

boguing said:

No differences for each side mentioned in my bible.

View attachment 281882
View attachment 281883

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Nor mine. According to a bit of interweb poking it seems some indeed fit a rear axle U bolt nearest the diff. I think, or at lest a slightly flattened wun. My other delivery has just arrived now it’s too late to do anything of course so it’ll be another 8 days before beating lumps out of the heap can recommence.

Colthebrummie said:

A few washers

Col

Click to expand...

I think it’s 12mm so I could run a thread a bit further down the legs and cut off some of the 4 inches that’ll stick out
Or it it 7/16 pixles

Bobsticle said:

Nor mine. According to a bit of interweb poking it seems some indeed fit a rear axle U bolt nearest the diff. I think, or at lest a slightly flattened wun. My other delivery has just arrived now it’s too late to do anything of course so it’ll be another 8 days before beating lumps out of the heap can recommence.

Click to expand...

I was being a bit dim. Look at the second drawing. There's no explanation but one is flattened and has a different number.

Edit - AND the first page. No explanations, we're just supposed to know. In my defence I didn't take the U bolts off mine, just loosened them. I'd never have been so unobservant if I had, no Sir, not me.

boguing said:

I was being a bit dim. Look at the second drawing. There's no explanation but one is flattened and has a different number.

Edit - AND the first page. No explanations, we're just supposed to know. In my defence I didn't take the U bolts off mine, just loosened them. I'd never have been so unobservant if I had, no Sir, not me.

Click to expand...

The normal one must work as on my front axle they are all the same. I can’t see the pictures (no specs on). Not that the axle is original or it wouldn’t have 11 inch drums.
At least the new rear crossmember arrived. Bleedin galvanised this time. The last one lasted no time at all. Shirley a man shouldn’t have to go through that faff twice in his life.

Still waiting on the prop boot.

It will most likely be a rolled thread so cutting a new thread on the plain shank will not leave deep enough threads for the nut to grip on, and yes I am sure one of the U-bolts is a weird shape, flatter on top.
Last ones I fitted were Britpart they were actually pretty good, the previous ones were more expensive and the threads tore off!

If I can’t do anything else, I’ll knock up a couple of shims to go between the axle and spring. I’ve got a few bits of 10mm plate somewhere.
The boot turned up today as I was leaving for work.

Problem if you put shims between axle and springs. There are pins in the springs that locate in the axle plate to prevent any side to side back and fore movement, a 10mm spacer would leave little to locate and lower your ride height.
Seller is correct, different one by diff bulge. Answer is to get the correct U's for parabolic diabolocks.