Freelander 1 Looking for help with engine codes and limp mode issue

Hey there people,

Asking for my father in law. He has bought a second hand FL 1 td4 sport 2005 with little to no history.

He drove it on 3 motorway trips of no more then 120miles per trip with no issues, then during a short drive the engine lost power and slowed and stalled. Issue was found to be fuel pressure valve which fixed it for another 500 odd miles.

Then on another short trip hill descent mode kicked in when pulling away from some lights, and whenever he touched the brakes the wheels locked up.

Currently the car is in limp mode, and F4 code shows up on the dash when turning the power on and just checked for any fault codes on the OBD port and P1748 is the only code coming up.

After a search on the net couldnt readily find an explanation for that code.

He has seen he local mechanic who advised replacing the entire gearbox!!!!!

Seems overkill to me so hoping someone can help with the issue or even has been through the same.

Cheers

Matt

Hi Mat
I have just looked in my code book and the only one I can find is (P0748) here is a link to what I found in the net.
https://www.google.co.uk/search?saf...31k1j0i22i30k1j33i21k1j33i160k1.0.Roani_h-y70

Also try this
http://obdii.pro/en/code/P0748
http://obdii.pro/en/code/P1748

. (It did send it, see below!)

I believe the chances of it needing a replacement gearbox are slim.

The F4 message on the dash is relating to the gearbox. It is discussed on here quite frequently and I believe is often the electrical barrel connectors coming loose - I think these are the connectors that join the car's loom to the wires coming out of the gearbox. There are threads on here suggesting to disconnect them, possibly clean, push back together and clamp them together with cable ties. Have a search, if you can't find the threads, come back and I'm sure someone can put links.

The ODB code appears to be something relating to "Pressure Control Solenoid Electrical" - is this not a historical code for the previous fault? Have you cleared the fault and it comes back?

Regarding the HDC coming on, presumably it may be a dickey switch, but I'd sort out the F4 gearbox issues first and see if there are any continuing issues.

...

Couldn't send as 3pm backup in progress. When it came back I did a search (top left of this page) for "f4 barrel connectors" - it comes back with loads of F4 faults and they are usually accompanied by HDC faults. Lots of info in those threads for you I should think.

Also, have a look at this thread, from a fella in Adelaide last month about his gearbox problems - it shows the cable ties being used to keep the connectors together, its the first one I found...

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-ro...mping-from-high-gear-to-2nd-when-warm.323599/

GrumpyGel said:

I believe the chances of it needing a replacement gearbox are slim.

The F4 message on the dash is relating to the gearbox. It is discussed on here quite frequently and I believe is often the electrical barrel connectors coming loose - I think these are the connectors that join the car's loom to the wires coming out of the gearbox. There are threads on here suggesting to disconnect them, possibly clean, push back together and clamp them together with cable ties. Have a search, if you can't find the threads, come back and I'm sure someone can put links.

The ODB code appears to be something relating to "Pressure Control Solenoid Electrical" - is this not a historical code for the previous fault? Have you cleared the fault and it comes back?

Regarding the HDC coming on, presumably it may be a dickey switch, but I'd sort out the F4 gearbox issues first and see if there are any continuing issues.

...

Couldn't send as 3pm backup in progress. When it came back I did a search (top left of this page) for "f4 barrel connectors" - it comes back with loads of F4 faults and they are usually accompanied by HDC faults. Lots of info in those threads for you I should think.

Also, have a look at this thread, from a fella in Adelaide last month about his gearbox problems - it shows the cable ties being used to keep the connectors together, its the first one I found...

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-ro...mping-from-high-gear-to-2nd-when-warm.323599/

Click to expand...

Thanks so much for the info. Gonna replace the tranny fluid and also look at the barrel connectors when im next over at my father in laws.

Cool - be very careful changing the fluid. There is a bolt that looks very much like the drain or fill bolt (forget which) - but its not!!!

Undo it and that is a replacement gearbox job as you'll lose reverse gear.

Once again, have a search on here for threads that contain a pic of the right bolts. If you can't find one, come back and say so someone can put a link to it.

I'm sure there's threads on here giving advice on auto fluid changes - not sure if there's anything (other than the bolt) specific to the Jatco box, but might be worth your while. Will probably say what fluid it needs - LR do tend to get fussy with what fluids are used.

Right here is a long overdue update as ive been away with work for a while and have now also inherited the FL from my father in law.

So the car still has the F4 and HDC light issue. Car runs only in 4th gear per the f4 but on the auto transmission i can select 1st and it will run in 1st gear, when i then change up to 2nd it shoots straight into 4th again.

So far i have changed tranny fluids (was very dirty) and that seemed to get rid of the issue for less then 24hrs, then the TC light and HDC came on but no f4. Car ran perfectly with those warnings until the f4 turned up again. SRS light has now also come on, but TC light is off.

I have changed the brake light switch with the new harness as well, i have unclipped the pretensior cables and reattached to no avail, i have a throttle position switch to fit also but dont think that is an issue.

I have also checked the resisstences on the tcm and the barrel connectors per Hippos post and they are all fine.

My scan tool is still showing a code of P1748 which arctic 2 pointed out its probably P0748 the pressure control solenoid electrical. This i have not changed yet as i want to check the earths and probably do another fluid change as this seemed to clear the issue even for a short time, so i am wondering if anyone has any other idea's or is it just get in there and change the solenoid, if so i will do a search but in case my search skills are rubbish does anyone have an idea of changing the solenoid.

Forgot to add then when the f4 and hdc was not on the dash the gear changes were not smooth and a bit clunky plus at start up with the f4 and hdc smoke billows out of exhaust for a sec or two but not when dash is clear.

It sounds like it could have a CAN bus fault to me. You have 3 ECUs giving you strange behaviour. The only thing that is common to all those ECUs is the CAN.

The Ipack is the junction for all CAN information, so it could be that.

You are going to need a diagnostic device that is much more advanced than a simple OBD2 reader.

Is that a simple (within reason, pretty handy around a car) DIY fix or is that more an auto sparkys job? Also with a more advanced diaog is it as simple as looking for the CAN failure or fault code or do i need to keep an eye out for other things?

Thanks for that advice though much appreciated.

Also today i noticed that the car was parked on an incline nose up, and when driving it didnt go straight into f4 hdc fault mode it drove normally for 30 seconds before reverting, do you think thats anything realted or not?

Could be a bad connection somewhere. Try re-seating all the ECU plugs, after disconnecting the battery negative terminal.
Do the engine ECU, box ECU, ABS ECU and Ipack. Look for corrosion on the pins at the same time.

Thanks Nodge I'll get onto that after work tomorrow.

Fingers crossed it works as i do love the FL, but my god they have issues hahaha

Ozzylandyowner said:

Thanks Nodge I'll get onto that after work tomorrow.

Fingers crossed it works as i do love the FL, but my god they have issues hahaha

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The FL1 is generally pretty good. It's pretty devoid of electrickery. Now the modern LRs can be a PITA to sort out, without expensive diagnostic equipment.

I had similiar gearbox issues with a Freelander 1 TD4 auto...........remove the radio/CD player and look carefully on the rear face it for blackened scortch marks........over time the wiring loom chafes on the back of the radio intermittant;y shorting out the canbus wiring.........also check fuse 13 in the under bonnet fuse box

Thanks Moron will definitely check those out.

Will give an update once i get under/in the car again in the morning.

This is the fun and games I had with the canbus and F4.
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/autobox-vss-abs-wheel-sensors.303635/
Mines sorted now. But a word of advice, don't believe the code reader when the canbus is playing up.
If you want more info than what's in the thread, just ask.
Mike

Skinny Mike said:

This is the fun and games I had with the canbus and F4.
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/autobox-vss-abs-wheel-sensors.303635/
Mines sorted now. But a word of advice, don't believe the code reader when the canbus is playing up.
If you want more info than what's in the thread, just ask.
Mike

Click to expand...

Wow that was some fun and games.

What finally sorted it?

I will be certaily checking the ipack and abs sensors, also interestingly the suggestion about the fuel pump and filter causing f4 issues, i will certainly be looking at those as well.

That's the thing about these faults, if you're lucky enough to find the issue first time its usually relatively easy but if not, it's round and round we go emptying or wallets!

Ozzylandyowner said:

What finally sorted it?

Click to expand...

The Ipack iirc.

Yup, it was replacing the ipack (display binnacle) that sorted it. The canbus uses it as a hub for communication.
Mike

Have been looking into the ipack and it could be the saviour to my issues.

Is there anyway of checking to see if it is indeed the issue before i take the plunge and buy a new one, also im hearing the dash would need to be programmed as its not a pkug and play like older models. Is this true?