Locking wheel nut woe - part 2

I fear I am fecked.

As per previous post, air wrench yeilding monkey at garage has either over tightened or possibly cross threaded locking wheel nut, which bust the key when i tried to remove it.

Bought a new tool, which promptly sheared and split. I then tried the hammer an old socket on and bent a 5 foot length of scaffolding - still not shifting, just chewed abit of the nut. So bit the bullet and got a reverse thread removal tool, used that on my Clarke 1000w 450nm leccy gun, it is gripping the nut and has cut about 1/2" thread but its not shifting it. Then tried a plumbers torch got the nut red hot tried again - no joy.

Left it last night soaking in plusgas, still no joy this morning.

Any suggestions from anyone with experience, will be hugely appreciated, before I consider cutting the wheel off????

Is the clarke an mpact wrench?

The Clarke is the CEW 1000 impact wrench.

Its just hammering away, the reverse thread tool is doing its job in its not slipping, but it aint shifting it.

Thanks

Is there space to get a dremel with cut off disc in there and cut the wheel nut away? If not how about a series of small holes drilled around the face of the nut to release some of the pressure on the thread...........You are into desperate measures, been there many times.

I now avoid locking wheel nuts, never had a wheel nicked!!!!

I had the same problem couple of weeks ago when i changed the hub....I broke the locking tool and had to buy a new'un that got it off but all the lock nuts are now just 'tight'.

Was the socket a 6 or 12 point? Maybe using an impact 6 point socket with a scaff tube wud shift it?

I always put wheel nuts back on witha trace of coppaslip, makes life so much easier in the future!

If the wheels are alloy you won't get Drimel in there, they are deep set. I'm suprised the the tyre shop uses an air gun when replacing alloy-wheels, it's never been used on my or my mates alloys.

Use a small dremel type cutting tool (as already mentioned) to cut a notch in the outside face of the nut and try giving it a whack round with a hammer and chisel- try heating it up first but watch them wheels. Failing that- continue the cut accross the 'face' of the nut (ie- accross the diameter-). Make several cuts- deep as you can- to make a slot big enough to get a chisel in. Bring in the hammer and chisel and break the nut in half. Best of luck!

never done it but im told that driving it with the other wheel nuts loose for a bit will loosen the stuck nut

have always used the socket hammered over the locker have lost the odd socket doing this but well worth trying imo once the socket it on as far as it will go keep hammering as it will loosen the nut

HURRAH!!!!

Thanks to one and all who posted their help and siggestions, I got the little ####er out at last - only taken 4 nights!!!

I tried the gun again tonight after soaking in plusgas, but no go.

So lost the plot and beat 7 shades of **** out of it with the BFH, and it still wouldn't go.

So got me new drills out and started drilling the stud started at 4mm and went up in 0.5mm steps to 10mm, was soaked, bleeding and ****ed off by this point so beat **** out of it again - still no go!:emps1:

Tried the gun again, still nothing shifting.

So got the gas torch out, and got it as hot as I dare, bearing in mind the alloy wheel.

Then gunned it and the ####er cam off - was totally cross threaded.

Thanks again to eveyone who posted their help, it all combined to get it off.

Just need to get the locking nut out of the reverse thread tool now!!!

Good stuff- glad you got sorted. Now crack open a tinny!