L322 EAS question.

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shoottruck

Member
Posts
38
Location
Notts/Lincs border
Before the haters start I did search, but couldn't find a similar thread.

Bear with me it's a longish one.

Hi all, recently purchased a 2003 Autobiography 4.4.

When I test drove the vehicle EAS worked both times I tried it, access, normal, highway and off road heights all okay.

Fast forward a week, car left on driveway. Went out in the car and the adjustment from access to normal height seemed to take about a minute, longer than test drive but not concerned. There was also a beep from the boot space. Compressor overheat??

Test the height range whilst out, couldn't achieve off road height, lowers at fairly good speed from normal to access, and then slowly but surely back to normal ride height. Whilst increasing height the selected led keeps flashing until attained. (Normal?) beep from boot space a couple of times.

This weekend, 2 weeks later finally get to go in the car again. Ride height from access to normal took around 3 minutes, replaced piston ring since last drive btw. Changed my wheels to some from a sport whilst mine are in for refurbishment. Since changing the wheels the suspension inactive warning is on the dash, and the LEDs have failed to illuminate since getting to normal ride height. Luckily the system seems to have frozen at normal height, preferable to on the bump stops I suppose.

Any ideas? Or anyone near me with diagnostics who fancies a beer maybe?
Thanks in advance, lincs/notts border btw.
 
If you have no air susp light illuminated on the dash (next to ride height adjustment) then you will most likely need it plugged in to diagnostics to read then clear the fault.
Did height sensors look OK when you changed the wheels over?
Plug it into diagnostics, You could potentially be looking for a needle in a haystack otherwise.
Sorry you're too far away to be of anymore help.
 
EAS sounds like it's in hard fault mode

Needs diagnostics to reset

I'd recommend you invest in your own diagnostics equipment if you own a Range Rover
 
Thanks for the replies.

I am looking for a local forumite, or recommended independent to carry out the diagnostics for me. Newark on Trent area. any ideas?

Fault finding wise I removed the compressor earlier, checked the piston was free to move, checked all the hose connections, plugs etc, I did a few basic resistance tests and found that the main windings in the compressor motor appear very low, to me (heating engineer) less than 2ohm resistance across the cables?
the temp sensor I assume works on negative temp coefficient, the readings were 9k and falling to 5kohms at around room temp approx 21 degrees.

When i reconnected the compressor and switched the ignition on there was a single beep almost immediately from the boot space, I may be wrong but I am thinking that the coil has failed in the compressor and that is why it has failed.

I would like an indy or forum member to help diagnose this correctly.

Q's
if I had a leaking air bag, would my car still be at normal height after 3 days. or would it be sinking it has been driven approx 40 miles since warning appeared?
Can you buy just the motor for the compressor rather than a whole new unit?

thanks in advance, you are a kind lot.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the replies.

I am looking for a local forumite, or recommended independent to carry out the diagnostics for me. Newark on Trent area. any ideas?

Fault finding wise I removed the compressor earlier, checked the piston was free to move, checked all the hose connections, plugs etc, I did a few basic resistance tests and found that the main windings in the compressor motor appear very low, to me (heating engineer) less than 2ohm resistance across the cables?
the temp sensor I assume works on negative temp coefficient, the readings were 9k and falling to 5kohms at around room temp approx 21 degrees.

When i reconnected the compressor and switched the ignition on there was a single beep almost immediately from the boot space, I may be wrong but I am thinking that the coil has failed in the compressor and that is why it has failed.

I would like an indy or forum member to help diagnose this correctly.

Q's
if I had a leaking air bag, would my car still be at normal height after 3 days. or would it be sinking it has been driven approx 40 miles since warning appeared?
Can you buy just the motor for the compressor rather than a whole new unit?

thanks in advance, you are a kind lot.

If you had a leaking air bladder it would sink over a period of a couple of days! As for buying just the compressor....not sure, ebay is your friend for that one!

More than likely the compressor has been working hard and is now tired, not sure on the winding resistance, Datatek (member on here) is an electrical guru who can no doubt answer that.

The system has to fault modes...Hard and Soft...Soft faults are identified by the presence of lights on the height selector switch and hold lamp plus the warning on the dash message centre....a soft fault means the car can determine its height and will try to maintain that height, but there is a fault in the system like it is taking to much time to inflate the air bladders, or the pressure doesn't rise while the pump is running that sort of thing.

The Hard Faults are when the system can't determine ride height so it lowers the car to the bumps to ensure it doesn't cause an unstable height, or there is a failure that will lead to system damage i.e. faults with the cross link valves or height sensor plausibility issues!

Diagnostics first I am afraid....if the Range Rover is going to be a long term purchase, consider getting your own diagnostic gear, will save you a fortune in the end!
 
Before the haters start I did search, but couldn't find a similar thread.

Bear with me it's a longish one.

Hi all, recently purchased a 2003 Autobiography 4.4.

When I test drove the vehicle EAS worked both times I tried it, access, normal, highway and off road heights all okay.

Fast forward a week, car left on driveway. Went out in the car and the adjustment from access to normal height seemed to take about a minute, longer than test drive but not concerned. There was also a beep from the boot space. Compressor overheat??

Test the height range whilst out, couldn't achieve off road height, lowers at fairly good speed from normal to access, and then slowly but surely back to normal ride height. Whilst increasing height the selected led keeps flashing until attained. (Normal?) beep from boot space a couple of times.

This weekend, 2 weeks later finally get to go in the car again. Ride height from access to normal took around 3 minutes, replaced piston ring since last drive btw. Changed my wheels to some from a sport whilst mine are in for refurbishment. Since changing the wheels the suspension inactive warning is on the dash, and the LEDs have failed to illuminate since getting to normal ride height. Luckily the system seems to have frozen at normal height, preferable to on the bump stops I suppose.

Any ideas? Or anyone near me with diagnostics who fancies a beer maybe?
Thanks in advance, lincs/notts border btw.

Have you changed the wheel size ? Say 19's to 20's if so the height sensors will be confused.
 
Have you changed the wheel size ? Say 19's to 20's if so the height sensors will be confused.

The only thing I have done is swapped from 255/50/20 to my new wheels that are shod with 255/55/20.

Would that be enough to throw it out?

How do the height sensors work? I must search it.


Thanks again for all the replies.

As far as code readers go, which is the best value for money? I have found the all comms for 79.99 on a website, seems too cheap? And I would have to buy a cheap net book to run it as I have been on Mac for years now.
 
Have you changed the wheel size ? Say 19's to 20's if so the height sensors will be confused.
Height sensors don't care what wheels/tyres you have, all they do is measure the distance between the suspension arm and the subframe....as long as this distance is maintained, the sensor care not if you use shirt buttons or tractor tyres....

Yes, with different size wheels the ride height may be affected if you haven't kept the same rolling radius, and only during calibration will you need to tell the software what size rims you have fitted, as the measurement is taken to the bottom of the rim and not the floor!
 
The only thing I have done is swapped from 255/50/20 to my new wheels that are shod with 255/55/20.

Would that be enough to throw it out?

How do the height sensors work? I must search it.


Thanks again for all the replies.

As far as code readers go, which is the best value for money? I have found the all comms for 79.99 on a website, seems too cheap? And I would have to buy a cheap net book to run it as I have been on Mac for years now.
That is not the original All Comms and is a cheap Chinese copy that the Legend that is Storey Wilson (the All Comms designer) is trying to get shut down!!

Regards Height Sensors....my reply is above!
 
The only thing I have done is swapped from 255/50/20 to my new wheels that are shod with 255/55/20.

Would that be enough to throw it out?

How do the height sensors work? I must search it.


Thanks again for all the replies.

As far as code readers go, which is the best value for money? I have found the all comms for 79.99 on a website, seems too cheap? And I would have to buy a cheap net book to run it as I have been on Mac for years now.

Stay away from anything other than from the link below, you may be able to buy a second hand tool and get the software license transferred but you would need to confirm this from RSW. The hardware is useless without the correct software which you get from a download from RSW

MKIII All Comms

All comms is the best vaule for money i believe unless you fancy a faultmate for about £1k:)
 
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