Is this a MAF problem?

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thebiglad said:
A potentiometer is only like a volume control on a radio that has gone noisy - and gets cleaned up with carbon tetrachloride or switch cleaner.

It's got to be worth a go, surely.
Click to expand...

Definitely worth a shot! I'll give it a go on the weekend and let you know how it goes....
 
Hey Mark,
Be interested to know how you get on with this have very similar problem on my 300TDI Auto Diesel.
Had the fault codes checked and the "Suposed 4x4 specialist" spent 3 hours on it and only cleaned the airflow meter and tighten loose connector on air flow ducting know the fault getting worse.
 
giftedboy said:
Hey Mark,
Be interested to know how you get on with this have very similar problem on my 300TDI Auto Diesel.
Had the fault codes checked and the "Suposed 4x4 specialist" spent 3 hours on it and only cleaned the airflow meter and tighten loose connector on air flow ducting know the fault getting worse.
Click to expand...

Will do giftedboy, got it planned in for Sunday morning along with changing the rear discs and pads :eek:
 
Guys, was looking through this months edition of "Car Mechanics", the inside back page has an advert for Tuning Diesels.

Full page ad' for what sounds very much like the Roverron Maf improver you were talking about.
This time it's called "Synergy 2".
The stunning difference is the price, it's now nearly £200 !!

I'll second the option to have a go at cleaning the throttle switch. Use some contact cleaner, if you can get it in there, then work the throttle to clean the area.
It's all we used to do to clean up dirty variable resistors in the past.

Let's know how you get on.

Did you manage to get any engine fault codes read ?
 
now guys am i completely stupid? maybe! but where is this throttle potentiometer? there are just two cables connected to the pedal, one goes to a bellows mechanism on the inner wheel arch (presumably for the cruise control) the other to a pivot mechanism by the fuel pump, another cable comes off this pivot that vanishes behind the engine and i cant see where it ends up!
 
ok so i am stupid, it was there........ didnt realise i had to be some sort of circus freak to get at it!!!! anyway i must be cus i got the darn thing off only to find its a seales unit and i cant get into it to clean anything!!
 
Your second cable, the one that goes to the pivot mechanism on the pump, is your kickdown cable for the autobox.
 
Ahhh of course!! latest update, these potentiometers are like gold dust!! eventually tracked a second hand one down by emailing around 20 sellers on ebay breaking disco's........ believe it or not only 1 guy actually had one!! £40 waiting for delivery. Not sure this will solve the low power problem but one step at a time eh!

Another weird one! probably best in a new string.... but now fitted new discs and pads all round and brakes are superb, problem is i had a loud scraping noise that could also be felt through the pedal, like metal on metal when brakes were first pressed after standing for a while, they also needed a 'pump or two'. This problem is still the same after renewing everything?? what could this be?
 
mark george said:
Another weird one! probably best in a new string.... but now fitted new discs and pads all round and brakes are superb, problem is i had a loud scraping noise that could also be felt through the pedal, like metal on metal when brakes were first pressed after standing for a while, they also needed a 'pump or two'. This problem is still the same after renewing everything?? what could this be?
Click to expand...


This noise issue started after you replaced discs and pads ? Are you sure it's not just a matter of the new pads bedding in? Don't mean to be funny, but are you sure you put the pads in the right way round?

Re the need for pumping the foot brake - that sounds like you could do with bleeding the brakes or better still fully replacing the brake fluid as it rarely gets done.

Cheers
Dave
 
thebiglad said:
This noise issue started after you replaced discs and pads ? Are you sure it's not just a matter of the new pads bedding in? Don't mean to be funny, but are you sure you put the pads in the right way round?

Re the need for pumping the foot brake - that sounds like you could do with bleeding the brakes or better still fully replacing the brake fluid as it rarely gets done.

Cheers
Dave
Click to expand...

Dave, the problem was always there, hence the investigation of the discs and pads in the first place. The fronts were not too bad but the backs a right state! couldn't see any sign of anything else catching on reassembly it all looked perfect! but something must be wrong somewhere that i didn't spot. The brake performance is superb after the initial hiccup in the morning...... got me baffled cannot see any sign of metal on metal contact (and its got that 'rusty'/'corroded' metal on metal kind of sound... if that makes sense)

............Mark
 
mark george said:
Dave, the problem was always there, hence the investigation of the discs and pads in the first place. The fronts were not too bad but the backs a right state! couldn't see any sign of anything else catching on reassembly it all looked perfect! but something must be wrong somewhere that i didn't spot. The brake performance is superb after the initial hiccup in the morning...... got me baffled cannot see any sign of metal on metal contact (and its got that 'rusty'/'corroded' metal on metal kind of sound... if that makes sense)

............Mark
Click to expand...


Ok Mark, I'm assuming that you've checked there is no mud or stones trapped between the mud shield and the disc?

Can you describe the noise a little more as I'm beginning to wonder if it might be coming from elsewhere. For instance:

1. Does the noise happen only at low speeds or is it apparent at higher speeds also?

2. Is the noise there whether the engine is hot or cold?

3. Is the noise still there if you dip the clutch?

4. Is the noise there under load or just one over-run?

5. Is it a constant noise or intermittent?


Try to paint a picture under which the noise occurs - I'm trying to help you identify it's source.
 
thebiglad said:
Ok Mark, I'm assuming that you've checked there is no mud or stones trapped between the mud shield and the disc?

Can you describe the noise a little more as I'm beginning to wonder if it might be coming from elsewhere. For instance:

1. Does the noise happen only at low speeds or is it apparent at higher speeds also?

2. Is the noise there whether the engine is hot or cold?

3. Is the noise still there if you dip the clutch?

4. Is the noise there under load or just one over-run?

5. Is it a constant noise or intermittent?


Try to paint a picture under which the noise occurs - I'm trying to help you identify it's source.
Click to expand...

Def no stones trapped, the noise sounds like when pads have completely worn out to steel on steel, but only lasts for one press of the brakes then its gone!

1. only ever checked it at low speeds as its the first press of the pedal

2. only noticed when the engine is cold as the car has to stand for some time before it happens again (generally overnight)

3. its Auto

4. only occurs when braking so no load on at all

5. directly related to brake pedal depression, stops if pedal released.


its feels almost as though the calipers have been backed off, as when the pads are changed, and you pump the pedal to force them back onto the disc. brakes are perfect after this first couple of presses (usually first thing in the morning and after work when its stood all day)
 
Hi Mark,
I commented back down the thread I had very similar problem with 300Tdi Auto with what seemed the same the power loss problem.
After leaving it at "alleged 4x4 specialist" who spent 3-4 hours and could not find the fault and told me they needed more time to search for the fault.
I then took it to a 4x4 centre near Banbury who fixed the fault in less than two hours they just repepaired the wiring between the throttle pontimeter and the maf unit.
He said had seen the same problem a number of times on 300tdi's discovery's.
 
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