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Pinning sleeves is one thing but it won't stop exhaust gases getting into the coolant
Is an engine replacement in a 4.6 P38 a complicated job?
- Thread starter Montyjohn
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I think I would be happier having it top-hatted.
If the fire ring stays intact not sure if that would happen, That said vvv wot e sed
We were
eventually.J
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but the fire ring is to the block on a regular linered engine, thats why we have top hat liners, to seal against the fire ringIf the fire ring stays intact not sure if that would happen, That said vvv wot e sed
We were
J
plus, how do you know if the liner is 'all the way up' and if its not, how do you get it there?
Do you mean all the way down? The battering of the fire ring cos the liner moves then leaves a non sealing access to the coolant.
.Found this had a couple of interesting paragraphs Flanged or Top Hat Liners in Land Rover Engines - JE Robison Service - Bosch Car Service Specialists — the blog
J
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interesting read! cheersDo you mean all the way down? The battering of the fire ring cos the liner moves then leaves a non sealing access to the coolant.
Found this had a couple of interesting paragraphs Flanged or Top Hat Liners in Land Rover Engines - JE Robison Service - Bosch Car Service Specialists — the blog
J
I mean.. the extra width of the flanged/top hat liner seals against the fire ring. the regular liner with no flange never presses/seals against the fire ring and allows combustion gas to go up and over the top, through the crack and into the coolant.
doriz
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Before I bought a P38 I was tracking this on EBay. There seemed to be the same few that always cropped up when searching. The enthusiast cars circa £5k used to go quickly. Anything £2-3k hung round as they often had significant issues.
P38 Monkey
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Some very interesting posts in this thread.
Reading Landyzone posts does make you start to worry about new perils that you didn't even know existed...
Dropped liners, top hats, leaky head gaskets, cracked blocks.
Never mind the 1990's computer under the drivers seat that squats there like Jabba the Hutt, and has the ability to do strange things even when left alone in the garage overnight.
My previous car, a Volvo V70XC with 200k miles on it, was really boring in comparison.
I sold it because I was worried that it would have a major failure, but the guy who bought it drove it to Hungary non-stop and then took it apart to send spares to Ukraine.
I just know that those parts will run forever.....D'OH...!
Chinese curse "May you own an interesting car", with or without top hats and a dodgy BeCM that is.
But I much prefer my P38 to any other car I have ever owned, with the possible exception (first equal) of my 1978 911SC Coupe, sadly sold back in the day to pay school fees.
Reading Landyzone posts does make you start to worry about new perils that you didn't even know existed...
Dropped liners, top hats, leaky head gaskets, cracked blocks.
Never mind the 1990's computer under the drivers seat that squats there like Jabba the Hutt, and has the ability to do strange things even when left alone in the garage overnight.
My previous car, a Volvo V70XC with 200k miles on it, was really boring in comparison.
I sold it because I was worried that it would have a major failure, but the guy who bought it drove it to Hungary non-stop and then took it apart to send spares to Ukraine.
I just know that those parts will run forever.....D'OH...!
Chinese curse "May you own an interesting car", with or without top hats and a dodgy BeCM that is.
But I much prefer my P38 to any other car I have ever owned, with the possible exception (first equal) of my 1978 911SC Coupe, sadly sold back in the day to pay school fees.
P38 Monkey
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My P38 head gasket seems to be leaking gas into the cooling system, after an overheating event. No white smoke, no oil in the coolant and no coolant in the oil. The header tank does not smell of exhaust fumes at all. I got a RELD test kit, blue dye turned yellow in 2 minutes, confirming exhaust fumes in the coolant. But zero smell. Defo generating gas into the cooling system though - bleed the radiator, go for a run, then find more air / gas in the rad. I guess it's time to check the plugs for contamination / pressure test / compression check etc. But am surprised that there is no "fumes" smell. Thoughts and opinions on this would be greatly appreciated.
Might just be going down the exhaust, is there moisture coming out the tailpipe? condensation unusual this time
of year, are you losing coolant?
Have you done head gaskets recently (i seem to remember but may have been someone else).
J
P38 Monkey
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Not me, that must have been someone else.
Last edited:
P38 Monkey
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Just to add:
The overheating was caused by a blocked radiator bleed pipe, so that problem was found and fixed.
Doesn't overheat at all now - well, if you believe the temp gauge. But no boiling noises anyway!!
Doesn't seem to be using coolant.
So maybe I have just not bled the system fully - plus the blue dye test might be giving a false positive.
The bleeding is small volumes now - maybe about a 10mm change in the header tank level.
Anyone got any views on the reliability of RELD test results?
I am tempted to continue driving, very carefully, with 10 litres of water in containers in the boot...and pulling over immediately at the slightest twitch of the temp gauge. Or is that stupid?
The overheating was caused by a blocked radiator bleed pipe, so that problem was found and fixed.
Doesn't overheat at all now - well, if you believe the temp gauge. But no boiling noises anyway!!
Doesn't seem to be using coolant.
So maybe I have just not bled the system fully - plus the blue dye test might be giving a false positive.
The bleeding is small volumes now - maybe about a 10mm change in the header tank level.
Anyone got any views on the reliability of RELD test results?
I am tempted to continue driving, very carefully, with 10 litres of water in containers in the boot...and pulling over immediately at the slightest twitch of the temp gauge. Or is that stupid?
P38 Monkey
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I'll check for drips - good point.
Welsh defector
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Simple answer, not difficult, but quite time consuming. Personally I’d try other routes first, rad , thermostat, then heads . Best of luck
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Get it warmed up. Then do a coolant pressure test with engine off (kits are cheap on Amazon). Much easier to spot leaks that way. It should retain the pressure for several hours.
P38 Monkey
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…and check for the problem I had - blocked rad bleed pipe into the header tank. Ring UV tracer dye too.
At 150,000 miles my P38 started to overheat & in desperation I used Steel Seal which fixed the problem & lasted 25,000 miles before the head gasket started blowing. I then had V8 Developments rebuild my engine which now runs as sweet as a nut with no overheating & no oil leaks.
If you are contemplating an engine swap you have nothing to lose but using Steel Seal or similar.
If you are contemplating an engine swap you have nothing to lose but using Steel Seal or similar.
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Have you got a pressure tester¿ best way to check for leaks with a cold engine or the fan to blow it all away
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